I cooked some hot dogs today on the central burner and didn't notice any return of the whining sound. However I did have to fiddle with the ignitors for a half an hour until I was satisfied with their performance. Interesting, the ignitor module has four outputs, which are paired. So the gaps for the burner ignitors need to be evenly spaced, or balanced, so that the spark is even. Also, the leads to the ignitor module were a bit loose, so I took some pliers and crimped the female bayonet connectors on the leads to make for a better connection. I also filed a bit of a rough spot on the burners where the ignitors spark. After all that, the ignitors seem to be working better. Oh, and guess who makes the ignitor module? Grand Hall!!!

To my eye, Delorean Gray does have a bit of blue in it. I'd call Custom's tech support line with the brand of admix you used, as well as any info you have regarding the tile. Most grouts are already modified, using another company's admix in addition? It could have created problems. Or not. Even if it was a Custom admix, I don't believe they recommend adding admix to their already modified grouts, it's pretty much just for their saltillo grout which is a different from their regular grouts. Custom does have caveat in their installation or whatever literature, essentially warning that using colored grouts on rough or textured tile may cause staining. They recommend a sealer prior to grouting. You can also ask them about how to remove the residue. Custom Building Products Customer Support 800-272-8786 Technical Services 800-282-8786 FWIW (not much, I admit), if I have a textured tile and a contrasting color grout, I'll sometimes use a grout bag instead of a grout float to place the grout.

Update, Stopped in and talked with Cabinet shop owner about imperfections and how things have went. Even he said " I don't know why the installed can't get it right ? Also he offered new doors and drawer fronts to resolve imperfection. + he offered 30% off, Or he'd come and get his Cabinets and 100% refund. There already installed, though I'll have to wait and see if they can actually straighten up the bases. If not, I'll go with the EZ Level system W Laser Level for the base's and Do it myself ! For all the inconvenience and problems, I'll accept the discount as I like the look of the cabinets. As for the Granite guy he could make the piece on the L of the stove work by bringing the corner out towards the stove a little, as I will do a ceramic back splash later. However he may prefer to come and get his Granite and 100% refund. We'll see.

Nick, you seem to be hung up on that curb. you say he's going to build out the curb so that it's flush w/the wall? (your last pic w/the tape measure?) Not sure about the cement board. the curb is kerdi and he's going to make it wider using the cement board over the kerdi?? YOu said he's going to start over. he's removing the tile that was already done? Sorry, it's a little confusing. Dragonfly is right. It would be easier to send out another tile expert to your place and have them evaluate what's right and wrong. as for that curb, would it help if I showed you my marble curb? I had a mud base on my shower. doing it old school (with someone who knows how) is the best way to get a plumb/level wall for your tile. standing in the shower looking out, you can see the inside of the curb. no overhang. It's 6". On the outside it's also 6" from floor to top of curb completely flush w/the half wall as for the edging, your tile guy should be able to polish the edges of those tile if you want to forgo the pencil tile On mine I used the bullnose subway tiles. (also notice the niche. I carefully measured out the tiles, placing the niche exactly between full tiles above and below. I hate slivers!. you can do the same w/your marble tiles. you or the tile guy can do the math and figure out where the niche will go, along w/it's dimensions, it order to have it fit perfectly The edging I used around the nice and the herringbone accent was a Schluter jolly in black. Around the cement tile on the side wall I used basalt transition molding since I had to go from a 1" down to a 1/4" or so to meet w/the wall. I need to use this because I had to buy up space from the blk/white tiles to the edge. I had a set amount of cement tiles but was short 6 inches or so. The basalt tile worked out perfectly.