For added protection: You can also apply a thin coat of paste wax to outdoor brasses and lemon oil to indoor brasses to help keep them staying bright. -------------------- Rub on olive or mineral oil to keep the metal shiny longer. Cleaners: 1 t. salt 1 c. white vinegar 1 c. flour Dissolve salt in vinegar. Stir in flour to form a paste. Apply to brass and let sit 15 minutes; rinse with water and polish with a soft cloth. ------------------------- You can clean brass, bronze and copper by rubbing on Worcestershire sauce or ketchup with a damp cloth. --------------------------- Navy Brass Polish Powdered or canned fruit juice. -------------------------- To remove tarnish from brass, bronze or copper, dip a lemon slice or rind in a little salt and rub it on the object. Then clean and dry with paper towels. Grainlady

I think it looks great, the green scrubby probably removed some of the lacquer. I think it looks better if it's not all one uniform color anyway, so the darker rings look good. If it's solid brass and not plated, another option is taking ultra fine 0000 steal wool to the tarnished areas next time it starts to tarnish.

I have been a metalsmith since 1988. It's not a "job", I don't work for someone else. I have an MFA in Jewelry and Metals, earned in 2006. As part of my training we studied forging, welding, casting and fabrication from sheet metal: in copper, brass, bronze, nickel, and silver. Including blacksmithing in iron. NO PIECE was considered complete until a proper PATINA was created. It is an important part of the finishing process, whether through application of chemicals from a bottle, liver of sulphur, fuming with ammonia, etc. Though it it IS an important part of the work, it is still an APPLIED patina. Here is the definitive book on the subject, which I and every other metals student studied : https://www.amazon.com/Colouring-Bronzing-Patination-Metals/dp/0823007626 Oxidation is nothing more than a chemical reaction between the molecules in the metal and compounds in the air (as in your outdoor bronze example) or compounds applied, such as the sulphur released by a liver of sulphur solution. A microscopic layer forms which is technically an alloy of the metal and the chemical, such as silver sulphide. You APPLY a patina chemical. OXIDATION is the result. Calling it "artificial" ...well: it's ALL artificial. I don't know of a single sculptor or jeweler today who lets their pieces color naturally in the air. It is because you cannot control the result that way. Go to an art fair like the Des Moines Art Festival (not a craft fair with "yard art") and talk to some modern day bronze sculptors. Ask them if they let their pieces color naturally. From ancient times through the Renaissance to the present day: sculptors have colored their metals. I have seen old recipes calling for burying the piece in sawdust with urine added; akin to the ammonia fuming of today. A raw bronze is not a pretty thing. There is no contrast, no richness of the surface. No Renaissance sculptor would have thought of exhibiting one. Unless coated with lacquer, all patinas are "living" surfaces. They will continue to react and the color change with time: sometimes looking better with age, sometimes not; with the original metal gradually being eroded/penetrated by the alloy. Hence many outdoor bronzes in Italy (where acid rain and air pollition in general is a problem), have been removed indoors to controlled conditions, and copies placed outdoors. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Horses_of_Saint_Mark

I would suspect that at one time your chandelier had been lacquered to keep it from tarnishing and what you see a gook is really just lacquer that has blackened and not worn off. Try household ammonia and a toothbrush. And PLEASE don't paint an antique brass chandelier! And Barkeepers friend works magic on tarnished brass.