Yes, I like to leave the old stems of the sedum up, as you did, so I know where the plants are. I also think they help 'catch' leaves and snow. Now that you can see them well, removing the old stems will make the plants look fresh and 'clean' although the new growth would be unaffected either way. If you accidentally pull a chunk with roots & new stem, just bury it back to the level it was or slightly deeper. Unless it completely goes bone dry, it won't mind, probably won't even stutter. #5 - hope somebody else can help. My only guess is squill and I don't think that's right, leaves are too broad, too many buds on the stems. Looks like they'll be extremely pretty, whatever they are!

Hi Suiv, My pictures (on Photobucket, no less!) go hinky like that sometimes, too, and it just proves what superior growers we are when we grow 'em sideways. Your first is an Echeveria, and further growth will reveal its name, but I think others might ID it for you. #2 is Crassula ovata - it looks like the leaves are largish, so it might be a cultivar (cultivated variety). #3 is also Crassula ovata, but this one's the cultivar 'Gollum'. I love the TJ's - the only place I can get 0% or 2% FAGE yogurt (clearly the best Greek yogurt).

I would say I see at least two things to think about after looking at your pictures. The first thing is your nutrient solution. Not all plants like strong fertilizers. Peppers are one of them. I am guessing that you have no way to determine how much nutrient your plant is getting other than measuring out the solution? The second thing I see is that likely your PH is high or low, that your plants cannot get a good drink of water. In order to determine how much nutrients your plants need, the only way I know of is to use a tester/meter. You can buy a dual tester for about $100. Hanna makes a nice water proof one. Once you get a good tester, you need to determine how much nutrient you need to add to the water. The way this is measured is by PPM (parts per million) or EC (electric conductivity). The most accurate method is by EC, but if the solution is not moving when you test it, the PPM works fine too. Basically you put the meter in the solution/water, and add solution until the desired PPM or EC is reached. For Peppers at transplant stage, 250 PPM is fine. When a Pepper gets to about 10-12" tall increase to 500 PPM. You can go up to like 1500 PPM on a Pepper, but that is a full grown, heavily laden with fruit plant. Tomatoes can take a high PPM, like almost double of a Pepper. In regards to PH, PH controls the amount of nutrients and water you plant can absorb. High or Low PH locks out some nutrients, or blocks water from being absorbed. Peppers love a PH of 6.3, while tomatoes I find like 5.8-6.2. The other thing I would suggest is the flushing of your media with water with a PH 6-7, between every time you drain and replace your nutrient solution. Change out your solution every 5 - 7 days, and never add more solution to a plant after your initial solution setup. Buy some PH up and PH Down. You use this is small quantities to raise and lower your solution PH without affecting your plant. Test your solution at least once a day and twice if you have time. Just some things I have learned. Hope it helps.

Thank you very much for all the help on these. As far as persuading them not to mow...We have tried, but no go...So far, it hasn't effected them too much. We did persuade them not to mow up to 8 ft from the fence row..this is where most of the bulb plants are. The ones that are sparingly through the yard are mowed down!! I am praying for the rain to hold off long enough for me to "save" these tomorrow after work!! A bit of rain before will be nice so the ground will be softer. All of these are pretty much in vast supply, except the anemone and I can do a few swaps if anyone is interested. Again, thank you for taking time and helping with these. If anyone knows of any special care that they need, please let me know. I don't want to damage them. I am moving in 2 months and don't think I should put the bulbs in the ground. A gardening friend told me to put them in soil in a large pot and then put them in the ground when I move, so they don't have a chance to get established and then move them again. If anyone has any other suggestions, please let me know. Thanks, Lori