The average ÚS bathroom remodel--without moving around walls and plumbing---is 16K. Upscale is 51K. Since you are moving stuff, you will be much closer to the second number than the first. Canadian projects cost even more. 10% i.e., 5K, for design fees is standard to low, depending on if you are using a design/build or independent designer. Design build tend to absorb some of the design costs in higher build prices. If you get more design services than just floor plans, like decorative finish selections, then 5K is WAY low for the design portion of the budget. Try 3x that ballpark. 15-20% (10K) will go to the GC for supervision and project control. Of the 70% of the budget left, maybe 30% (15K) goes to materials, and the rest (20K) is job labor. It's a labor intensive project to start moving plumbing, electrical, and HVAC, and doing tile. Here is a link that might be useful: Cost vs. Value

Suz, You garden room is your greatest asset (or is it?) Does the garden room have proper footings? Sometimes, these summer rooms do not have proper footings to be finished off, so you have to pour new footings and there is nothing that can be saved, ie tear down and rebuild. If you are tearing down and rebuilding, you should put a few more $ and make it spacious.... Before tackling a big remodel, you also have to be flexible in how you use the house. For example, I would not be so "fixed" on how you use the den/existing house. The garden room can be finished as a conditioned space with the least amount of money (if the existing conditions are right) or it maybe no different than a new add on. I have seen so many remodels where huge opportunities were lost because people did not move rooms within the house. I recently saw a turn of the cenutury house for sale where the views were closed off in the livingroom only. The reality is that the view in that house has lost value as our life styles are changing (no servants/housewife in the kitchen which is cut off from the rest of the view floor plan) because most people want views from kitchen and dining more than LR. That was the big reason I did not consider buying that house, otherwise it was a very nice house. I already have a view kitchen and dining.... A little extra money to put the kitchen on the view side would have made that house sell quickly. My next door neighbor has a sun/garden room (much like yours, also an old house) attached to the dining room. They did not move their kitchen. So in the end, their kitchen feels cramped and their garden room feels cramped. Their dining room feels spacious which is used rarely...... It was NOT a good solution from an objective bystander with no say in the matter, moi. You have to talk numbers with your builder. You also have to give your architect some freedom to come up with elegant solutions, which means that you are flexible in how you live. There are things that I was not willing to move my position on at various points of our different remodels, which necessarily was not the best solution in the end. One of the best ways to ask your architect for help is to say these are my requirements for the finished house. Come up with the least expensive solution for me. Don't say, "I cannot change the den into powder/move kitchen etc." Evaluate the proposal (with a cost estimate) that they come up with, then make up your mind.

Boxerpups, I needed those images. Thanks so much! Isn't it amazing how a simple image can clarify so many things? Am reminded about the architect Sarah Susanka's comment that bookshelves are like wonderful wallpaper. I hope that my cookbook collection and the other items I need to store on shelves will function in that way. Was on a road trip to a wedding recently and had lots of time to make sketches. I have a better idea of my bookcase options now, but hadn't been able to picture the moldings and such. These images are very helpful. The red-painted shelf units with the curved trim are so intriguing. Wonder how they suspend those long shelves? Or did they make a vow to only store lightweight stuff? The images of various same-width multiple shelf units are extremely helpful; You're a painted cabinetry gal, aren't you? I am trying to imagine them in oak instead of paint. These regular soldier-like niches are likely what we'll end up doing. The over-the-door shelf is something I had considered but DH vetoed. Now that he's sat with me looking at your images, it's back in consideration again. I am supposedly working on the denoument of this project's planning but am still dithering about cabinet glass for my kitchen so I went to a local glass company to talk. They said they make lots of glass doors for labs, businesses, etc. I think that they would help me with sliding glass doors for bookshelf if I want them. They are in the custom glass etching business so they can even temper and etch decorative (textured) glass, which would allow me to get a strong, textured, opaque effect for lower shelves that may accumulate junky stuff. It would be expensive, but extremely distinctive. (This added to my dithering and got me off track, again.) [Confession time: Problem is further compounded by seeing an antique piece that would work in that space also. Unfortunately, when he was working on wallboard phase, DH refused to wallboard the back side of the bookcase space when it would have been easiest to do it, claiming that it would be redundant work. So there are literally a number of holes into the inside of the wall on the back of the bookcase niche to contend with if I win the piece at auction. Am in another quandry. Best solution: stay out of auctions and antique shops and estate sales.] ___ Leel: would love to learn more about the steel shelves you have used. Sources?

You don't have enough room for that island in your space. As others have pointed out, it's too big. You do not have room for seating at the island + the table - you need at least 54" (and 60" is much better) b/w the island counter and the table edge. I speak from experience - I have 48" b/c of a mistake I made and it is not enough - I need another foot! Do you really need three seating areas? Island, Nook, and DR....that's a lot of seating! Your Nook is a bit narrow - can you still modify the exterior walls? It would be nice to have wider aisles around the table - especially if you plan a round table. In some respects, a round table takes up more space than a rectangular table. To accommodate more people, a round table must be deeper - you'll probably need a 42" wide round table by the time your children reach the pre-teen years. It would be nice to be able to have 42" of aisle space on the "top", left, and right sides of the table in the Nook. I put in a rectangular table b/c of the need for a wider aisle b/w the table and island. If you want a round table, I suggest making the Nook at least 6" deeper. I think the current width would be fine if you have a 42" round table. [Aisle recommendations: 36" to edge past diner and 44" to walk past diner.] Are you measuring aisles counter-to-counter or cabinet-to-cabinet? Cabinets, without doors, are 24" deep (and that's how most are represented in designs - without doors). Counters are 25.5" deep. If you're measuring cabinet-too-cabinet, then your aisles are 3" narrower than you show. Personally, I don't like cleanup sinks or ranges/cooktops in an island - they both take far too much space away from the island and negate the best thing about islands (and peninsulas) - that wonderful expanse of uninterrupted workspace (except, perhaps, for a prep sink). (There's also the safety issue for ranges/cooktops if your island isn't at least 48" deep, but you aren't showing one in the island, so no need to continue with that discussion.) Cooking Zones should be the most protected zone in the kitchen - you will be dealing with hot items when cooking and moving around with boiling water, etc. The last thing you want is traffic getting in your way! (You don't want to trip over a child or run into someone coming into the kitchen to raid the refrigerator or get a drink while carrying a pot of boiling water to the sink to drain!) So, what do I recommend? Consider changing the island to a rectangular island. It will fit better in your space and it will give you room for seating at the island as well as decent aisles in general. Consider moving the cleanup sink, DW, and Cleanup Zone to the "bottom" wall Consider moving the Cooking Zone and range to the left wall Consider adding a prep sink (smaller than a cleanup sink) to the island making the island the Prep Zone Getting rid of the small wall to the right of the "bottom" wall to gain 4.5" and allow you to.... Move the refrigerator to the bottom wall so it's on the perimeter of the kitchen and easily accessible from the FR for snackers to access without those snackers getting in the way of those working in the kitchen. Is that bottom area 11'1" like the "nook"? A possibility: Details of the layout above: Overall: It separates the Cleanup Zone from the Prep and Cooking Zones - something to strive for b/c it allows several tasks to be going on at the same time, it doesn't mix the dirty dishes with the prep and cooking space, and it allows you to separate the prepping and cooking storage from the dish storage. This separation of storage allows you to easily store items at their point of use - no overlapping and people getting in each others way! It reduces zone-crossing - having to cross another work zone to go to/from appliances (especially the refrigerator) and dish storage Aisle widths are much better for a multi-worker kitchen and for seating at both the island and the table (no more back-to-back seats!) Cleanup Zone: Moved to the "bottom" wall Deeper counters as well as deeper storage (30" deep counters, 27" deep base cabs, 15" deep uppers). This gives a lot of storage for dishes, glasses, silverware, etc. as well as space for prepping as a Secondary (or Tertiary) Prep Zone. Wider aisles to accommodate traffic Single-bowl 30" sink base with a 27" to 29" wide sink - plenty big enough for the vast majority of needs. (There's a prep sink in the island for a "second" bowl...more later) Dish storage (as well as glasses, silverware, etc.) is right where the DW is, so unloading and putting the dishes away is easy! Dish storage is placed such that it's easy to get to from the Nook as well as the DR - both w/o crossing into the Prep or Cooking Zones. Refrigerator: Has been moved to the bottom wall - it's not quite on the perimeter, but it's located so it's accessible from the Nook, DR, and FR, w/o cutting through the Cooking Zone or zone-crossing when prepping or cooking. Because of the deeper Cleanup Zone counters, it looks built-in and does not look like a "standard" refrigerator. The other things that make it look built-in are the finished end panels on either side and the full-depth cabinet above the refrigerator (it's either 27" or so deep or it's 24" deep and pulled forward so it's flush with the refrigerator carcass (box) Prep Zone: Prep Zone is in the island. Locating the Prep Zone in the island allows you to visit with guests, help children with homework, or watch the TV in the FR while prepping. Since 70% or more of the time working in the kitchen is spent prepping, it makes the most sense to have the Prep Zone in the most desirable spot. There's no conflict b/w the Cleanup and Prep Zones - no fighting for sink space, counter space, or a place to stand! Prep Zone is directly across from the Cooking Zone - making the prep sink handy for both zones. The aisle b/w the range wall and the island is 48" - ideal for when your family starts helping more - you'll be able to have several people working in the Cooking Zone and in the Prep Zone at the same time. The Prep Zone is protected from traffic. While it's true that the Cooking Zone is the most important zone to protect from traffic, the Prep Zone comes in a close second. You're using knives, etc.... There is a prep sink in the island to provide water for the various prepping tasks that require it. A trash pullout is in the island for the trash and recyclables generated while prepping There's a 12" cabinet for cutting boards - placed right where you need it! There are 45 inches of prep space on the right side of the sink and 20" on the left side (more for landing space,though). The refrigerator is placed such that you can unload your ingredients straight from the refrigerator onto the island where they're needed without having to unload in one place and pick them up again and carry them to your Prep Zone. Island: The island has plenty of storage for both often used as well as seldom used items - in addition to the storage in the Cooking Zone and Pantry. Seating at the island will accommodate all four of you (although, I think the table is better when you're all together for a meal). The seating overhangs are sufficient for all - one seat even has a deeper overhang for someone who is tall or has long legs. So many people skimp on seating overhang that it becomes uncomfortable for average or tall people to sit for very long (unless you enjoy "straddling" the cabinets or leaning way over to reach the counter - I don't, but YMMV). Orientation of the island allows you to interact with others both in the kitchen as well as the FR - you're facing the "action". Cooking Zone: The Cooking Zone is now protected from through-traffic as well as incidental traffic in the kitchen. Traffic will go around the Cooking Zone - whether someone needs to use the MW, wants to get into the refrigerator, or wants to cleanup the kitchen (or DR or Nook). There is plenty of room on either side of the range for both workspace and landing space. You should have at least 24" on each side. The MW is in the Cooking Zone but on the periphery so you can easily use it while prepping or cooking. Outsiders can also use it w/o getting in the way of the cook (or the person prepping). The MW is near a water source (prep sink) - most MWing requires water be added. The MW is near the trash for the easy disposal of the wrappings - again, w/o getting in anyone elses way. There's a 12" cabinet for tray storage - cookie sheets, cooling racks, roaster pans, etc. Note there is an 18" trash pullout in the Prep Zone and near the Cooking Zone as well as one (21") in the Cleanup Zone. The most important place for a trash pullout is in the Prep Zone and near the Cooking Zone. Far more trash and recyclables are generated while prepping and cooking than any other task - and for longer periods of time (and more often). If you only want one, then consider moving the 18" one down to the other end of the island so it's somewhat close to the Cleanup Zone - but don't remove it from the Prep Zone. Even the 21" one is too remote to be of much use during prepping and it's even worse for cooking. I think you have plenty of space to accommodate two trash pullouts - but it's up to you. 54" b/w the table and island. There is no longer direct competition for floor/aisle space since there are no back-to-back seats (island seat is farther to the left than table seats), so 54" is fine. [Edited to add detailed explanation of layout[ This post was edited by buehl on Sat, Jul 20, 13 at 11:04