Sun requirements for hemlock in zone 7a
Heruga (7a Northern NJ)
7 years ago
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gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
7 years ago
Heruga (7a Northern NJ)
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Bonfire Peaches in zone 7a, Maryland
Comments (0)I've ordered 6 2-3' Bonfire Peaches for planting in the ground in soil amended with peat moss and perlite with some Osmocote granules. They will get full sun from about 10am-6pm, and will be watered frequently. My main question/concern is that I've been reading how much spraying is required to care for Peaches. I'm not looking for fruit, I am only interested in maintaining the trees for their ornamental value. Can I acheive this without using sprays and chemicals? They will also be housed in mesh enclosures that allow sunlight through, but would prevent gypsy moths and similarly sized pest insects. I can't use sprays, at all, but I'd consider using imidicloprid or similar granular treatments, since the mesh would also keep out threatened honey bees and bumble bees. I'm grateful to hear your thoughts....See MoreWill "Miami" Crape Myrtle grow in zone 7A (Maryland)?
Comments (9)Thanks embothirium, the linked article was interesting. The engineer in me wishes there was a way to get a more accurate and (somewhat) tailored growth estimate for a given species but I think the bottom line is that there are way too many variables/unknowns at play. Thanks Todd. I didn't know the foliage on the miami was larger; interesting. After a bunch of phone calls, I found another nursery (an hour away) that has a few 15 gallon specimens although they subsequently told me they were ~5 feet tall(including the container) which sounds a little small for a 15 gallon. I may call back this weekend to try and get clarification before I drive out there with our CRV. I had 2 (25/30 foot) Ashe trees in our front yard that died from the Emerald Ashe borer and had to be removed last year. I don't want to put the crapes in the same exact spots but I'll use them to fill in some of the open space (void). I'm struggling a little with where in our front yard I should plant them. There are definitely places I don't want to plant them due to: (a) county/utility easements (not too close to the road or power lines), (b) existing trees/plants that require spacing, (c) views/sight-lines from inside the house that we don't want to obstruct, and similarly (d) views from the street we don't want to obstruct. It's these latter two considerations and imagining how the (mature) trees would look if they were planted at one location versus another that I find challenging....See MoreNew border zone 7a NJ
Comments (15)" Really, not many will see this view..." It stands to reason that if the tree were trimmed, and there were grown plants behind it and only hosta in front, that people would see it when they're looking at the front of the house. "I want it to be cohesive and pretty, nice in all seasons." OK. But this is subjective as to what is nice. Some people can't stand to see no leaves. I love the brushy, pastel look that stems and branches show in the winter ... IF they have been developed to show them well, neither abused or neglected. Subjectivity is one of the reasons I got kind of tired of helping people pick plants here. It's easier if they look around where they are, see something that fits well, and then find out what it is. Everyone's going to have a different opinion on it, but my personal thinking about shaping landscape plants, which is mainly by trimming (in addition to making the initial choice of the plant) is that the designer is going to give generally better advice ... advice that is pertinent to the overall design whereas an arborist is going to give advice about the plant, sometimes irrespective of its surroundings, possibly ignoring the job the plant has in the landscape. I know there are going to be exceptions so don't everyone jump on me because of them. But the arborist is going to look at the tree in a way similar to how the farmer looks at his corn. He's concerned about it's health and making sure it lives up to its genetic potential. The designer is trying to make sure the tree, as a piece of art, fits as best it can as an extension of the architecture (if it's part of a foundation planting.) I am not saying that the designer and arborist are wildly, radically apart and typically the result of either of their direction is going to be satisfactory. I'm saying there are degrees of "best" or "better" that one professional might finesse a little more than the other. As another example, I was talking with m nephew the other day, long distance, using photos, about drainage of a difficult piece of property. He's a mechanical engineer and perfectly capable of figuring out a solution that works. But his vision is too much like a series of rigid flumes, where mine looks more like subtle swales covered by a thick layer of melted cheese flowing smoothly over the land. His requires less digging and is less expensive ... but I would not want to see it every day!...See MoreLogan Labs Soil Test (Zone 7a)
Comments (23)You can actually do in situ composting by feeding with organics instead. Hence the five times a year for me. Many only do it once or twice and stick with synthetics otherwise. And this year I was lazy and fed in May, September, and now will do so around October first. The winterizer will be synthetic. I was busy. Count on approximately ten percent of your mass sticking around as "compost" when all is said and done; the other 90% is lost immediately as it decays off, but releases nitrogen that the lawn can use. Or gardens, I feed those organically as well. Although it does vary by what you use, it's a good general guide....See Moregardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
7 years agoHeruga (7a Northern NJ)
7 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
7 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
7 years agoHeruga (7a Northern NJ)
7 years agowisconsitom
7 years agoUser
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoUser
7 years ago
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