Next tree moving project.
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7 years agomaackia
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoRelated Discussions
Projecting next year's crop
Comments (3)I'm certainly not an expert, but here's my 2 cents: I am expecting a bumper crop next year. The weather can't get any worse next year (knock on wood), statistically the odds are well in our favor not to have two terrible years in a row, and the trees have had a nice rest. Yes... The thing to watch for next year is too big a crop -- major thinning might be required to prevent your trees (at least apples if not others) from going into biennial behavior as the result of the bumper crop that I would expect. And the earlier you can do the thinning, the better. Consider removing a reasonable portion of fruiting wood in winter/spring, and at least 3/4 of your baby fruit at the marble size stage in spring to avoid overcropping that results in numerous small sized fruits of lower quality than desired (i.e., all cores/pits and skins and less juicy delicious flesh). Of course, if we end up with another hot March and cold April, then I'm totally wrong. But somehow I think the odds are against lightning striking twice....See MoreNext project - what to do with these!
Comments (7)I can see that those are definitely Pittosporum (Dwarf), with those good close-up images. If you are willing to do a proper rejuvenation pruning on them, they respond beautifully to that procedure. Some people don't have the 'guts, lol. Rejuvenation pruning requires cutting the entire plant back to 6 inch stubs or less. That means all the way to the ground. Do it neatly and sharply; all you will need is a decent set of loppers for the job. The plants will make a terrific recovery this very first year, only they will be fuller and more compact. Another method of getting them into shape requires pruning part of the plant back this year, part next year, and so on. I much prefer the 'all at once' technique. I'd avoid fertilizing anything that you cut all the way back to the ground for at least a year. There will be enough stored energy in those roots to support the plant through a huge burst of new growth that always follows that kind of pruning. If you fertilize, you'll force even more top growth on a plant. That could put your plants in some stress and risk for insect and disease problems. Those Holly ferns would benefit enormously by a layer of mulch. Snip off any dead fronds from around the crown. I like Holly ferns. They simply do better in a shadier, moister environment than many other types of plants. The next plant does look like a Red Tip Photinia, at least if that new growth is red. Sometimes, it is really helpful to see a close-up of the foliage. If it is Photinia, it is one more plant that does well when limbed UP to a tree form. They make far more attractive small trees than they do shrubs, I think. Limb it up, but don't make a big ball out of the top part. That gardenia is covered with black sooty mold. That means that it is infested with whitefly, or another pest such as scale insect. In the warmer parts of the country where gardenias grow, whitefly is always the primary pest. You'll have to get rid of the insect before the black sooty mold will go away. I don't see any problem with the gardenia other than that it's pruned to a box type shape. In the future, if you're going to hedge up shrubs, try to prune them so that the widest part of the plant is at the bottom, rather than the top. If the bottom branches stay shaded by the top, the plant will get thinner and thinner down there. The shape doesn't have to be so obvious that the plants look funny....just barely perceptibly wider at the bottom. Yes, you have a small assortment of azaleas. I wouldn't prune them at all....but if you MUST be sure to wait until after they bloom...which won't be too long from now. Be aware that when tsmith recommended cutting out a bunch of geometrical shapes, it was not intended to suggest that you prune your plants to those forms. Yikes. If you're thinking about trying that little exercise, you would also need to cut your shapes to the appropriate 'to scale' dimensions for the mature plant. You have some nice plants, most of which need very little work to get them into good shape and you've made a good start. I'd just sit back and live with things for a long time before you start removing or moving too many things. Of course, any plant that is crowding doorways, walks, gates, etc., needs to be moved or put on the curb! If you decide you want to plant some color at the base of an established tree, and that tree is important to your property in terms of value and shade, be sure that you don't disrupt the root system around that tree too much. No tilling, no major change of grade, etc. Actually, the single most beneficial thing you can add all around a tree (or any plant) is a 2 to 4 inch layer of mulch. Just don't pile any up against the trunks. Impatiens is a nice annual for shadier spots. If you have sunny locations for annuals, select something that will thrive without the shade. Have you seen any new growth on your cycads?...See MoreHelp choose our next big project
Comments (13)Thank you so very much for your inputs. Except for Monicakm, central AC is rather low on the ranking, which really surprised me. Meeting with contractor to get a realistic price for putting in a dormer on garage attic, before doing the roof. Will make decision on bonus room once I know more about costs. So it seems like it's definitely master bathroom (and master bedroom make over) is next on the project list. I truly do not like the small conventional pre-fab shower stalls, usually 32”x32”. I’m a small person (4’11”) and I feel that is way too small. So I was trying squeeze 10pounds of “wants” into a 5pounds of real estate space. Wanted: - larger shower stall/area - double sink (not that we need it since DH and almost never get ready at the same time, but would be good for resale) - wet area (so I can hose everything down; we used to own a Chinese restaurant and I love being able to hose everything down in the kitchen area) But I have read many many online reviews against small wet-room, how everything gets wet, how you track wet feet in/out of the room, no place to put your clothes, and how many potential buyers would look at the room and would think about how much it would cost to gut the room/renovate it to “fix it”. Well, DH talked me out of the need for double sink, so I get to keep my larger shower. By moving the wall-hung toilet toward the entrance/furthest from the shower, there should be less water/moisture. What do you think of this? - I get my larger shower area: 4’x5’. - The shower floor will be one piece (stone/onyx or solid surface still researching); easier install, no grout/seams, easy to clean. See link for options - A glass wall between the shower and the sink - I don’t want to put another glass wall next to the toilet because I want the toilet area to not feel tight (both areas of my toilets now are pretty snug) - the bedroom is still a decent size 15'x12'. Masterbedroom layout: 2nd floor layout: Would you hate to open the door to seeing this right as you enter? I thought to put the shoes shelves there since the shelvings do not need to be as deep as a wardrobe, so there's more space in the landing area. sink: w32”x20”. I like the lip around so it keeps the water splashing in the sink area, instead of against the grout/wall tile. Yes, my King bed will be in front of 2 windows, and I will do lots of curtains like this: Monicakm: We do put in window air conditioners. Yes, a must have for those crazy humid nights. Yes, I do have to do more research on heat pumps. The HVAC guy who did my radiant floor heating told me about the newer tech ones that goes down to 17degrees (or even lower?). Lotteryticket: Yay on finishing your Mbath. Can you share pictures? I have no clue on the cost yet. Need to find potential bathroom contractors before I set a budget. Our 2-car garage is oversized. With the dormer planned, we would still have 1/3 of the attic for storage. Also have the basement for storage. Weedyacres: I don’t know much about plumbing, but I don’t know how to get plumbing across to put the bathroom on the right side of the room. Where I have the bath planned, it’s a straight shot UP from the basement, through the 1st floor pantry to the masterbedroom. I don’t think we can get the plumbing to cross the hallway from the 2nd floor bathroom (see 2nd picture). LARemodel: My elementary school days were in Pasadena/Glendale area, and I thought most homes have AC, so I was surprised to see your ranking. If we finish the room above the garage, it’ll really be for the kids and their friends/hanging out, and for the additional GLA so it helps when we list the house in the future. Linelle: Yup, just a nice 3rd bathroom so I don’t have to share w/ my future teenagers. Already, my 8yr DD keeps getting into all of my stuff/makeup, etc, that I leave in the vanity and medicine cabinet. Again, thank you very much for sharing your thoughts. Amanda Here is a link that might be useful: link to low curb one-piece shower floor...See MoreMust move 20 yr old Edo Muraski before wrecking ball next week!
Comments (5)First water well the day before so the plants are not water stressed when you move them. If you have a place to move them to dig a large hole and water so the hole is moist when you put the plant in. I would cut them back to a foot or so. When you dig them up dig wider than you think you need to as the roots spread widely. Also dig deep and take as much soil as you can. Cover with a bag or damp canvas/cloth to keep roots dry if the hole is far away. Place the plant in the hole 2-3 inches deeper than the soil level at the angle you want them to grow toward their supports. Water then cover with soil and water again. Mulch well. If it is sunny use something to shade the plant for a few days. Keep the soil moist but not soaking. I move clematis often and with continuing attention they should do well. Some large clematis might fall apart after being dug up. If you want more plants put each part into its own hole. If you don't want more plants put all the segments into one hole. They may take a couple of years to re-establish their root systems and produce good amounts of bloom. Hard prune the next year or two in the spring, regardless of regular pruning type. Here is a link to Frequently Asked Questions which gives more info on preparing the hole. FAQ. Moving Clematis...See MoreUser
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