Zephyr Lux Island ventilation that is flush with ceiling
jesslake
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
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jesslake
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Need help with kitchen island ventilation plan. Attic above.
Comments (9)I must have been misled by the "whole house fan" reference. Yes a hood is superior to a down-draft system because the cooking plume rises to the hood where it is (when correctly designed) captured and contained and transported to the outside. One can have a blower in the hood pushing to the outside, or a roof blower pulling from the inside (either way the pressure loss is the same), or an in-line blower. A roof blower provides room in the attic for a silencer (muffler) which will significantly remove blower blade turbulence noise. Turbulence noise from the baffles will still be present, but this is usually modest. Ideally, the hood should overlap the hot pan surfaces by enough to capture the rising and expanding effluent. A minimum of three inches all around is typically recommended, but this should increase if the hood is materially farther above the countertop than three feet. Flow rate (CFM) should provide enough velocity at the baffles that all of the uprising cooking plume, upon hitting the baffles, is pulled through. This should be about 90 cfm/square foot of hood interior aperture if you do hot cooking such as grilling in a pan or on a grill surface, or wokking with typical rising hot peanut oil vapor. The rated cfm of the blower is for conditions of hanging in space, so the pressure loss of the entire path (including getting air back into the house -- make-up air) has to be accounted for and the reduced blower output compared to the necessary actual flow rate. I would take the area of the hood aperture, multiply by 90, mulitply by a 1.5 fudge factor for pressure loss, and find a blower in that ballpark. Exactitude is not needed here because there are too many unknowns to provide a refined analysis. kas...See MoreLayout addicts - need help deciding on whether to put in prep sink
Comments (14)If you cook a lot that spatters or use spray on vegetable oils you are setting yourself up for misery with the window. I would move the fridge to the right of the double ovens (losing that cabinet and put the stove where the fridge is. That would work better with a sink on the island. I like the idea of the island sink provided you get one big enough to be usable. You can get a cutting board to cover it-to look flush when not in use. (There is even a push down faucet if you really want everything flush but you have to devote more space to the sink area, not woth it in my opinion.) Are there two cooks or just one? If two a corner sink would give both a landing area, if one, then there should be a landing area on both sides. How big is the island? Are there other cabinets in this room on another wall?...See MoreCITY APPROVAL? Zephyr Lux Island Hood (Ceiling-Mounted Kitchen Vents)
Comments (10)I don't know whether a city (or any other political entity) should have to power to determine whether one has to deal with grease on the walls or not, but I guess it is in the Constitution somewhere that I missed. As to effectiveness, GreenDesigns is correct for these reasons: The cooking plume diverges as it rises. In perfectly still air the ceiling aperture would have to overlap the cooktop by 6 to 10 inches all around the cooktop to intercept this plume geometry from all burners. Drafts can extend the needed overlap, and drafts become ever more effective at disrupting cooking plume flow as the gap between cooktop and hood entry aperture increases beyond, say, 36 inches. Even the modest effect of the countertop in directing some intake air is completely removed. Further, one wants a hood entry cavity of sorts to give the air flow time to overcome air momentum potentially causing the plume to reflect, in part, out of the capture zone before it can be contained and ejected from the house. As an added negative benefit, the large entry aperture required has commensurate high total flow rate requirements such that the flow may need to be 1800 CFM using a blower rated for 2700 CFM. (Look up the size of those at Fantech's or Greenheck's website.) Much better would be a semi commercial hood set at the usual 7 ft above the floor and requiring perhaps only 6 inches of overlap around the cooktop for an overall 3 x 4 ft aperture flowing 1100 CFM from a blower rated at 1600 CFM. (1500 might do.) Or follow GreenDesigns advice. Note that commensurate make-up air flow rate is required. And this in household's using gas combustion appliances is a safety requirement....See MoreNeed recommendations for 48" oven/range for island. Ventilation issue?
Comments (15)Kim: You are at the right place(s). The Appliance forum is one important place for you, but the Kitchen forum is equally important. You need to spend weeks (I spent a few months before my reno design firmed up) reading questions and answers on the many topics that are relevant to kitchen design before starting to flesh out your design. Questions that aren't answered in any searched results should be asked. After a while, you will develop a sense of what is important to kitchen design, and particularly to your kitchen design. Get familiar with grid paper, draw and cut out plan view appliances and counters to scale, draw the room boundaries to scale on a clean sheet, and then move stuff about on paper with a view to aesthetics, performance, and particularly kitchen efficiency. Many here will help you. And occasionally, reread this thread. Gas stoves/cooktops have safety considerations that are more stringent than induction cooktops. Reading the International Building Code or one of its derivatives (Residential Code, Mechanical Code, etc.) on topics of relevancy may help. Or download and read the installation guides for any candidate appliances. You will have to do this anyway once you are getting close to countertop and cabinet design, not to mention plumbing and electrical design. You will need a kitchen designer that can support with a design tool whatever cabinet line you find preferable. Eventually, everything needs to be specified to a fraction of an inch, with cumulative errors (and non parallel walls) corrected by filler strips cut to size on site. In your spare time, decide how you will live while the kitchen is being ripped up and replaced. Rental across the street? Hotel in Pago Pago? In the house with the microwave oven temporarily in some other room? Dust blocking? I had my new induction cooktop sitting on supports on a table in my Family room with an electrical cable snaking across the floor to a nearby breaker box. In my view, once the appliance selections are firm, appliances should be acquired so that there is no issue with unavailability or with the true overall dimensions and placement of electrical/gas/whatever interfaces. These appliances will need to be stored somewhere accessible. Ditto the cabinets. "Measure twice, cut once" is optimistic, as will be most people you will have to deal with....See Morejesslake
7 years agojesslake
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