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7 years ago
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Help please on flooring installation/selection for home office
Comments (10)You have a ton of questions and I will do my best to address them, I also have AADD so if I start to ramble and jump back and forth just overlook that :). We need to simplify this more because there are certain issues you can't change..... being on a slab and the weight issues. Any slab has to be reasonably flat and dry, but in your case it needs to be almost dead flat and dry. We are supposed to always check slabs for vapor emissions that can go unoticed when there is carpet over top that allows the slab to breath and release moisture without any problems. You have an 18yr. old glued down wood floor that has exhibited no problems, in my view that is as good an indicator one is going to get..... so we'll just say you are dry. I don't know how many sq.ft. is involved but it takes some space for an installer to check the slab for flatness and then take measures to correct it. Sometimes a low spot can be a few feet in diameter and with the feathering needed I may need 6', 8' or more to deal with it. If I don't have space I could be featuring up to a high spot underneath furniture. It is best to try and figure a way to go one room a time, clean it out, then go on to the next room. If you have your heart set on an engineered BC, then get it :), life is too short to fret over that as long as you know about this issue and are okay with it. On glued down floors the thickness does not really matter as much as opposed to floating. What does matter is the top wear layer thickness and using the right adhesive. A 3mm or 4mm thick wear layer is actually better in the long run as a 5mm thick . Going too thick with the wear layer can cause a phenomenon called "dry cupping" .... the NWFA and NOFMA are aware of this and it is being addressed. If you go with a glued down engineered wood floor and want to put on a sealer as "insurance" , then do it. In your case I would strongly consider using Stauf 960 which is a quality sealer and adhesive combined in one application. You pay alot more for the adhesive but you only have one labor issue. Imo you could also go with a floating floor. But to pull this off you must use a quality product and (here I go again)..... the concrete must be flat. There is a laminate out there that I have personally installed that is almost bullet proof. That would be Wilsonart , which is a high pressure laminate referred to as an HPL. Putting that down along with using their blue fusion glue in the joinery can take any weight you want to put on top of it. When I do that I recommend to the client upgrading the underlayment to a product Sound Solutions. You cannot walk on this type of install and tell that it floats. You could also go with a floating engineered wood... this is where thickness comes into play. I prefer to use nothing less than a 1/2" in thickness and a where the joints get glued up, or, choose a good reliable click-lock system like the valinge or Uniclic joinery systems. They both hold together well. The wood should also be waht is called balanced.... the top layer equals the bottom. You are very typical of alot of my clients. Quit stressing so much :)....See MoreTemporary repair of buckled laminate counter
Comments (1)This may or may not be fixable. The only suggestion I have is this. Contact cement can sometimes be reactivated by heat. Here is what I would try, if it were me. Get an iron and a brown paper grocery bag and set the heat to fairly high. Then carefully iron over the flawed area with the bag in place to protect the surface. You want to get the laminate hot enough so that it sticks without getting so hot you damage the top side of the laminate. If that works to get it re-stuck, you then need to remove the bag and quickly place a narrow piece of wood down on the seam and put a heavy weight on top to try to keep the laminate down as it cools. I will warn you, however, that, if you don't do this right, you may get some of the adjacent seam to come up and you will be worse off than when you started....See MoreAny ideas on how to repair a small buckle in hardwood floor
Comments (4)Replacing boards in a doorway can be tough and you lose part of the tongue and groove structure in the process. Matching the appearance can be difficult also. Within 6 weeks a floor will usually get bad then get a little better. Have you seen any improvement in the last 3 to 4 weeks? Chances are that the floor is tight and it came up at a weak spot. Other than a fan, a dehumidifier could be used to pull moisture from the wood but it has to tented over with plastic to avoid trying to dehumidify the whole area. I would exhaust every other option before removing any wood. Even using a Fein saw or equivalent, to make a relief cut at the buckle would be better....See MoreBuckling inside and out
Comments (2)Not sure what you mean by "building inspector". If you mean your town inspector then no, they won't do that. If you mean the kind of guy who does pre-sale inspections for real estate transactions, then no because 90% of the time they won't have the skills or knowledge to diagnose your problem. If you mean a structural engineer then sure. A skilled builder brought in on a consulting basis (eg pay him for his time) can probably give you both a diagnosis and plan to deal with it or tell you whether you need to bring in the engineer....See More- 7 years ago
- 7 years ago
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