Young Blood Orange Tree Drops Leaves, 10a
Mila Inukai 10a
7 years ago
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myermike_1micha
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Tried everything, this blood orange with pale yellow leaves
Comments (16)I will tell you a story about pH and iron... 15 months ago in Guatemala City we had a black sand "rain" from a volcanic eruption. Turns out that sand is 18 percent iron; and that my friends, is deadly toxic...killed about 300 small Meyers in my nursery before I figured out what to do, as iron toxicity in a nursery is absurd; after almost a whole day of researching I found a similar occurence in Africa; and the solution was to raise the pH so the plant absorbs less iron (note: afte a year it is still killing my roses, but Magnesium sulfate helps). The bottom line is if the soil or water pH is too low, that actually encourages iron absorption. I suspect that this little tree probably picked some heavy metal toxics in the nursery and it will take a little time to clear it out (Mn, Zn, and Cu toxicity manifests as Iron deficiency. Magnesium shortage (sometimes a problem here in volcanic soils) manifests itself in a very clear Christmas tree shape of green on the leaf with the surrounding parts yellow. As Mike said, and I said earlier, you seem to be doing the right things, the plant appears healthy and growing... so have faith and give the litte guy a chance....See Moremoro blood orange - all leaves are yellow
Comments (31)Patty, the nitrogen in fertilizers can make the growing medium become either more acidic (lower the pH) or less acidic/more basic (raise the pH). There are three types of nitrogen used in fertilizers: ammoniacal nitrogen (NH4+), nitrate nitrogen (NO3-) and urea. Fertilizing with ammoniacal nitrogen causes the medium-pH to DECREASE (become MORE acid) because H+ (acidic protons) are secreted from the tree's roots. Urea is converted into ammoniacal nitrogen in the growing medium, and therefore can be thought of as another source of ammoniacal nitrogen. In contrast, fertilizing with a nitrate nitrogen fertilizer INCREASES medium-pH (becomes LESS acid/more caustic) because the tree's roots secrete bases (OH-). Stressbaby is correct in stating that 7 is a neutral pH. Numbers lower than 7 denotes an acid solution, and numbers grater than 7 denotes a basic solution. The pH scale is also logrithmic. So a potting soil with a pH of 6 is ten times more acidic than a potting soil of pH 7. A potting soil with a pH of 5 is ten times more acid than a potting soil of pH 6, and 100 times more acidic than a potting soil of pH 7. A potting soil with a pH of 4 is ten times more acid than a potting soil with a pH of 5, and a 100 times more acid than a pH of 6 and 1000 times more acidic than a potting soil with a PH of 7. An so no and so on. Citrus will ALWAYS take up nutrients in a 5-1-3 ratio no matter what formulation you give them. Much more important than what type of fertilze to use for flower fruit set is an ample supply of water. Water is the prerequisite for ALL STAGES of fruit development. Water stress is particularly dangerous during fruit set, leading to a massive drop of fruitlets. Increase in size and juice content are also largely dependent upon the availability of water. So at bloom and fruit set, keep the moisture level of the growing medium up. This is where a well draining, lite aerable "soil" that at the same time retains a higher amount of water, such as CHC's, becomes important. Nutrition from fertilizing is important as well. Potassium plays a special role in fruit development. I would recomend a fertilization with a fertilizer formula higher in nitrogen and potassium, such as a fertilizer with a 5-1-3 ratio, or something more or less close. I also give my trees a nitrogen/potassium foliar spray, using Potassium Nitrate, a month before bloom and again a month after fruit set. Take care. - Millet...See MoreBlood Orange tree leaves perking at night only?
Comments (5)I think you are both right. It needs to be better established in order to get enough water out of the soil. If Summer wasn't winding down, I'd recommend shade cloth until established. Think of temps of 110F, humidity below 10%, long days, no shade and imagine how much water that takes. Palm Springs area could easily require daily watering if you are in an area with really sandy soil with no bottom. The best way to change that is adding material to help hold some water. Consider adding lots of mulch to slow the sun baking the moisture out of the ground near the tree. Some of the golf courses are adding Profile amendments, AKA Turface, at the rate of 30-50%....See MoreOrange tree dropping healthy leaves
Comments (4)carmellia, Well!!! I found out that I do not know how and where the Calamondin leaf increases in size and maintains the proportion of its (3) sections. What follows is pure conjecture. I'd say that we can rule out insect or disease. I can think of no good reason why an insect or pathogen would target a particular tissue on the leaves of a single stem. Then it must be internal; and "hormone effect" immediately comes to mind. Hormone imbalance can explain abscission of (all) leaves, starting in the apical zone and working downward on a stem. But such separation should take place at the juncture of leaf-stalk and main stem, shouldn't it? Maybe there is another abscission layer at the base of the leaf blade (similar to the dewlap on a grass leaf). This would cause the leaf-blade to fall away and leave (no pun intended) the petiole attached to the main stem. That is the best story I can come up with; (OMG 2 prepositions!!) and I am sticking to it until someone comes up with better one. Maybe we should post this on the Botany forum. "Izz a Puzzlement!"; and I wish to thank you very much for it....See Morebrettay
7 years agoMila Inukai 10a
7 years agoevdesert 9B Indio, CA
7 years agoKen "Fruity Paws" (N-Va 7a)
7 years agoMila Inukai 10a
7 years agoKen "Fruity Paws" (N-Va 7a)
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoMila Inukai 10a
7 years agoKen "Fruity Paws" (N-Va 7a)
7 years ago
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