I've built a shelving system along the back wall which makes it extraordinarily strong--it doesn't bow-in at all anymore where it previously moved 1/2 to an inch in a typical South wind. I used 3/4" galvanized pipe for the vertical supports, and 3/4" EMT conduit for the horizontal supports, which for the front-edge of the shelves pass-thru the galvanized cross- and tee-fittings, whose threads had to be ground-down just a little so the conduit would slide-thru. I'm real happy with the way it came together--the trickiest part was getting the installation "staged" properly: 1. Grind-out threads in the fittings for the side-to-side conduits 2. Make the two vertical posts (floor flange, 36" pipe, cross, 18" pipe, cross, 18" pipe, tee) 3. Flatten one side of three 10' conduits, thread these thru fittings and posts 4. Flatten other side of 3 conduits, drill holes, put assy into place, secure sides and floor flanges 5. Weld "L" brackets into one end of short (22 1/2") conduits (twelve of these) 6. Screw short conduits into each fitting and rotate into place 7. Cut cattle panel (2"X4" mesh) and wrangle into place from the side (having taken a side panel out temporarily) Look for "Details" in my photo link below. I think I'm done now with structural issues of the HFGH. Still have to build a potting bench, and we've been shocked to learn how hot the thing gets (over 100 degrees inside in 75deg sun out). So we have to do an exhaust fan/louver intake plus prolly some shade cloth. But the GH seems strong enough now that we shouldn't have to worry about it blowing-down, though the roof vents seem to twist a lot when open and it's windy--may have to make some further mods there. Here is a link that might be useful: Our 10X12 HFGH with Details

Hey Toni, thanks for your complements on my plants. Beleive it or not, all of my plants with the exception of the Aussie FIngerlime have been grown from seed. As a matter of fact, the Grapefruits were personally selected and liberated by me :) . I was out in AZ at the end of 2001, I was out for a evening drive with my wife and sister in law, we went to the highest point in Phoenix, then on the way back I passed a former manson with a radio station billboard on it with some sort of event going on at the grounds. It had a semi circular driveway and the entire very large front lawn was fileld with quite old Grapefruit trees, all seemingly the same type. When I went 3/4 of the way around I stoped said what the hell, jumped out looked at a nice looking tree and picked 2 grapefruits off the tree, the biggest and best ones I could find, and tossed them into the car. I had to wait 1.5 months for the box for some reason to come back to NY that I shipped em in but they were intact and whole. I had the seeds of one of the grapefruits planted for me by a friend and co-worker, since he had better facilities and room for that. Once they gre we split up the bunch. I kept 3 seedling and the other 2 went with him. I think he has one tree left. The other 3 have been growing with me ever since. Grapefruits #1 & 2 were so close together that I decided no to seperate them, they seem sto be doing great otherwise so it has never been a worry. The Key Limes were a bit simpler. Basically I bought a bag of "Susie" Key Limes in 2004, made a key Lime pie, saved the seeds, 15 seedlings grew. I lost 10 of them when I went away for 5 days and the pot they were in was not watered while I was gone. I planted the remainnig 5. One died in a month, another died suddenly of mysterious leaf loss the next year. Now of course I had a Key Lime almost die of the same mystery. The Lemon was planted September of 2005. I palnted 6 seeds,only 1 came up. I thought I had a second plant but it turned out initally to look like a weed. I figured I would let the weed keep the lemon company for a while. I was almost ready to pull the weed and then it flowered, then about a month later I found a whole bunch of small thai peppers growing on it...lol. It was a seedling for when I planted some in the same pot 2 years previous. As you can tell I just stuck the seed in existing dirt. The Kumquat I bought at the local Stop and Shop in December of 2005 and got 2 seedlings from that. I will be transplanting them soon. The Aussie FIngerlime I bought from a place in South Carolina. I will be looking up the name of the place when I get to work tomorrow. Anyway that is my story, so no grafts except on the Aussie, all is from seed. VTY -Mark

Before trying something like that valve ask yourself a few questions. 1. If it's such a great idea, why don't they do it from the factory? Answer: Probably because they don't want to spend $5 on a part when they can use a $.05 part instead. They won't be involved with changing the oil so they don't care. Why do they often bury the heater core so it requires $500 - $1000 labor to replace a $40 part, when installing an access panel would turn it into a 1/2 hr job? Because an access panel isn't a good idea? Nope. It's because it would cost them a few bucks per vehicle, won't sell any more vehicles, and they won't be the one paying for the repair down the road anyway. I've replaced spark plugs in vehicles where I had to remove motor mounts and jack up the engine to get to some of them. The factory is full of great ideas. 2. How well does it seal? Answer: The ones I've seen seal the same as a stock plug. They are available in stock thread sizes as well as self tapping. 3. How does it get locked in the closed position, so that it does not accidently become open, or be opened by a saboture? Answer: The valve is a spring loaded affair that requires it to be pushed in to drain. The valve is covered with a screw on metal cap sealed by a rubber o-ring to prevent it from leaking and from being bumped by accident. 4. How susceptable is it to getting damaged and causing a leak on the road? Answer: They do stick out about 1/2" further than a stock plug. A vehicle with low ground clearance where the pan plug is the closest thing to the ground wouldn't be a good place to use such a thing. I've known a couple of guys who have these and say it's great for them. Remove the cap covering the valve, screw on the gizmo that comes with the kit that also includes a length of hose. As you screw on the gizmo, the valve is depressed and the oil drains out the hose to your container. It's a great idea on vehicles where the drain plug is located above a cross member or exhaust pipe where the oil typically splashes all over the place when you remove a stock plug. Not much of an advantage when the drain plug is unobstructed. jmo

Assuming you have a 9x48 resin tank which should have 1 cu ft of resin and you use a medium salt dose of 9 lbs you get 26,000 grains of hardness removal. Using the formula at the above link that results in a setting of 660 gallons because I find 60 gpd per person more realistic than 75 gpd. That includes a reserve calculated in. Ideally you want a softener to regenerate every 6 to 7 days unless there is iron and then more frequently. I think your small 1 cu ft softener will regen every 4 to 5 days. You could increase the hardness removal capacity of your 1 cu ft of resin by increasing the salt dose at the expense of salt efficiency. At a high salt dose of 12 lbs you'd set the gallons at 750 using 60gpd per person.