Another 'sprite' story!
9 years ago
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Another sad calathea story
Comments (7)I grow a ton of Calatheas and Marantas but mine have an advantage of being planted in the ground. They just do not make good long term houseplants. There are probably several factors affecting your plant, and when they affect it "all at once", it can lead to big problems. #1--most Calathea are not high light plants. This is a good rule of thumb to follow for light: if a plant has leaves that have red or maroon undersides, its a shade or low light plant. The red coloration is a genetic adaptation of rainforest plants that thrive in moderate to deep shade. The pigment is made up of specialized cells adapted to catching what is called "green light"...this is light that filters through the canopy layer, hits the ground and bounces back up. These plants with red undersides are specifically adapted to catching and utilizing green light. So putting your plant right in an unobstructed South facing window might have been a little too much light all at once. #2--almost all the Maranta and most of the Calathea have a sensitivity to not only chlorine but also mainly to fluoride in the water. Since most municipal water supplies are both chlorinated and have added fluoride for the kids teeth, you shouldn't use it for plants like these. Your water may also contain added ammonia, which forms what are called "chloramines" which are also bad for plants. All this will cause leaf troubles like the crispy edge. Using pure spring water, distilled or purified water is a good start. #3--Humidity is a key factor for these plants and misting and a pebble tray may still be inadequate, especially in a home in a Northern zone when it gets to be winter and you turn the heat on. Air conditioning is bad enough in summer, drying out the air but the heater is killer in winter. If you can stand it, you might have better results if you purchased a cheepo cool mist vaporizer from Walmart and ran it on a timer to cycle on and off in the close proximity of any plants you have that require higher humidity. You could group all your needy plants together maybe and hit them all at once. #4--5 fertilizer sticks is just way too much for a houseplant that is already stressed.And Calathea and Maranta can be resentful of too much fertilizer. Since you have trouble keeping your plant adequately watered in the first place, it would be much better to err on the side of underfertilizing and just use some 1/4 to 1/2 strength water soluble maybe once a month. #5--if you had white bugs AND webs, you probably had a mixed infestation of mealies and mites. The webs are from the mites, mealies don't build webs. But mealies do infest the soil and also lay eggs in the soil. Calathea and Maranta are rhizomatous plants, and mealies can attack the plant below the soil level. To be certain they are gone you may need to use a systemic pesticide that goes into the soil, like Bayer, on a regular basis. Your plant sounds like it is trying valiantly to make a comeback and you sound like you did your research pretty well. Just give it time....See MoreAnother Ethanol story
Comments (4)Alcohol is hygroscopic, meaning it will draw moisture out of the atmosphere. It's contaminants like water that make fuel go "off." Some will argue that petrol can go bad in a matter of weeks. Personally, I view fuel older than six months as suspect.... Stabilizer and a properly-sealed container can help, but there's still alcohol in the fuel Why alcohol is there in the first place is debatable, especially as it 'costs' more in energy to create than it produces - the only thing it really does is enrich a few very large corporations - but I digress. I have a 35 year old Stihl chainsaw that started running poorly a while back, so much so that I bought another as a replacement. A friend who has a real skill with Stihls rebuilt it and got it running a sweetly as new - better than the "new" saw. Stihl recommends their brand of fuel without alcohol, packaged and pre-mixed in one litre cans. They claim the sealed can has a near-infinite shelf life if unopened and pretty lengthy even after opening. Others make similar canned fuel. It all depends upon your usage. If cutting a lot, then your fuel won't be sitting around long enough to go stale. If you need a saw only occasionally, it might make more sense to buy the canned stuff. In any event, you don't want fuel sitting in the saw, mower or generator for any significant length of time - like the five gallons sitting in the generator from the last hurricane season. (I installed a fuel drain line on my 8,000 watt generator.) Drain, start and let run until it stalls....See MoreYet another Lyme story
Comments (16)Thank you, Audrey. Snidely (sorry, I'm having a problem transitioning to Elmer), even if I were to find an affordable, tick-free location (highly unlikely), I wouldn't do it. I'd be leaving my kids and my friends, and left with . . . what? A chronic health problem, for one thing. Yes, the prospect of never being reinfected is a pleasant thought, but stress is unhealthy, and for this homebody it would be stressful to leave everyone and the old farm where I raised my children and spent my happiest years. Yaya, it sounds like you and I are in the same boat. Thanks for responding. I spent some time reading Buhner's Lyme book today, and also discovered his website. It's worth checking out. So many authors' websites are stingy with information because they want you to buy the book, but Buhner is extravagantly generous. I'm glad I have the books though; his research is extensive, and he provides a great deal of information about each of the herbs he recommends. I want to know as much as I can before I take something....See MoreAnother sad story with a contractor, please advise.
Comments (12)Does the designer have a recommendation of someone to come in a fix the things that still need to be done? One option would be to use money you held back to pay to resolve the deficiencies, and then, if anything is left, pay it to the designer who didn't receive her commission. You certainly aren't obligated to do this, however. I would likely also send the contractor a final email with a paper copy to follow (via certified mail with signature required, so you have proof he received it) outlining the problems, the fact that the final 10% will be paid when he resolves them, and asking that he either set a schedule to take care of them them by a certain date, and that if he choses not to do so, he acknowledges that he won't receive the final payment. That way, should he bring a legal claim against you for the outstanding balance, you have documentation that you tried to resolve things....See More- 9 years ago
- 9 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
- 9 years ago
- 9 years ago
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ravencajun Zone 8b TX