House design - nailing down the look
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
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Strand bamboo nail down installation..
Comments (1)With the risks involved you'd be better off gluing it down but if you insist on nailing, pay close attention to the size of the staple being used or if possible, use a nailer with a cleat like a PowerNailer rather than a stapler....See MorePreparing Wood Sub-Floor for Nail-Down Hardwood
Comments (4)I know the kind of construction you have with your existing foyer floor. Just fasten down any loose spots with a screw-type fastener or hardened spiral flooring nail prior to installing your wood and it should be fine. However, expect some seasonal movement of your maple, no matter what you do to prevent that from happening. I've used standard cementious (portland cement based) floor fillers to float out dips and valleys before installing nail down wood and it's been just fine. However, you must wait for the filler to cure before installing any wood product over it. A good filler for such a use would be Ardex SDP (self drying patch) or a similar product. Self leveling cementious fillers may have too high a PSI rating (pounds per square inch) for you to easily nail through the cured product. Mapei is not going to tell you to use their product for a purpose for which it was not designed and tested. You are on your own when using using a manufactured product when you are "inventing" an unapproved use for it. Moisture in a crawlspace below a suspended floor system of wood construction can affect that floor system. Flooring contractors have devised many ways of dealing with crawlspaces and preparing wood flooring to be installed over them. There is no stock answer as each house and the soil it is built on is a unique construction. You need to make the best guess you can after researching all your options. Search "moisture in crawlspaces" and you'll get an idea of what you need to consider. Best of luck....See MoreNailing down the details of entry door
Comments (7)What are your windows? I prefer continuity / integrity of materials, especially when visible through windows, so I would vote black interior if you are set on black exterior. That said, I have one door that is walnut veneer and clad with cedar on one side to blend in seamlessly with a cedar clad wall. (Not installed yet.) In that case the continuity of the wall overrides the integrity of the door. Unless you have a reason to change the material from one side to the other, I would keep it the same. I read more posts about your project and can't wait to see it finished!...See MoreFlooring Pros; Need nail down hardwood floor acclimation/finish HELP!!
Comments (21)The acclimation you've been recommended to use is generally how we've done floors forever EXCEPT when using wider planks. As was noted above, have the plywood and wood checked. If they're too far apart the area can be dehumidified to bring the plywood moisture down and/or the wood will add moisture if it's particularly dry. Make sure the contractor is putting a vapor/moisture barrier (not retarder) between the concrete and the plywood. I don't recommend any barrier between the wood and plywood. Some pros have been burned using (probably cheap) water based finishes and refuse to use anything other than oil based. Others think you should use only the newest technology finishes and exclusively use water based. We use both. With a stained, hand-scraped White Oak, I would choose oil based polyurethane. No water based finish compares to the durability of oil modified. Considering the cost, it's a no-brainer unless you have special circumstances. As to staples vs. nails, we've used both and seen little difference in the performance. My preference would be for nails but the industry seems to have moved more toward staples....See More- 7 years ago
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