I think if I was placing brick pavers or field stone I would most definely want to use the 1B (pea gravel). Because the 1B is smaller, the percentage of voids after compaction is less. This means that you have a lower likelyhood of the 1B settling after construction. If it was me I would probably use the 1B as base under concrete also. The key to success with this whole project is proper compaction. That is why one contractor told you to they wanted to put concrete under the brick pavers. That way the pavers could not settle. I would certainly not remove the material. Stone reaches 70% compaction at the time that it is dumped, not to mention its been sitting for a while settling. Its pretty compact. Just to be on the safe side I would make the contractor go over the area with a tamper to compact it ever further. You have to think about what elevation you want your walkway at, then go down 4" for the thickness of the concrete/ fieldstone/ brick pavers. That will be the elevation of your stone. Think about if you have enough stone in place, after compaction, to achive that. If the awnser is no, then compact the 1B you have, and add the stone or sand that the conctractor of your choice wants to use, then your paving material. I hope this helps

I find your question to be interesting. Let's play around with some design thoughts. You do not indicate just how much gardening you wish to do on the site, which would be helpful in planning. Leaving the earth bare around the house, which is low to the ground would lead to mud splashing up on the building and a 'trench' would form eventually from dripping water. Pea gravel is difficult to clear of debris. Larger cobbles make that job a bit easier. There probably will be a snow load dropping which would discourage planting low creepers around the house. If I were doing the design, and you had very deep pockets, random cut bluestone or sandstone (stone color that worked with house color) would be laid from the edge of the house outward, forming an irregular walkway around the house and the stone would be extended into several patio areas where needed. Into this walkway I would incorporate a few groupings of interesting large stone. On the outside of the walk garden areas would be planned that provided interest when viewed, both summer and winter, from the inside. This is an expensive 'fix' but as I studied your pictures my whole plan fell into place. Difficult to write in words. So...back to the real world. Your first step is to study the prevailing wind patterns to understand just how debris is going to pile against the house. If necessary, pound some sticks in the ground with plastic streamers attached and study the wind patterns. Some areas around the house will be very quiet. Others will be hit full force. I would encourage you to use flat, large stone in the latter areas for ease of cleanup. In other more quiet spots use large cobbles. With a bit of thought the two types of stone could be married in interesting patterns. Don't work in straight lines. Curves, please. Hopefully this thumbnail sketch will give you a few ideas.

you could start saving up sheets of cardboard and newspaper (shiny stuff removed). When you can get fall leaves - shredded lays down neater - then start laying newspaper around the perennials and cardboard in larger areas. Wet it down and then place several inches of leaves over the paper/cardboard. It should smother the grass and weeds between your desired plants. You needs to reapply leaves or other mulch as it breaks down and new seeds blow in to create the next family of weeds. But its easier than dealing with weeds/grass that is tied up in landscape fabric. I guess I would just leave the gravel where it is. When I do newspaper layering, I use sections that are folded in the way that the newspaper comes, so there a a few sheets in each section. I fan then with overlapping sections in a circular fan around a plant. For trees you can fan cardboard in similar way. The key is having lots of the materials ready at one time, getting a large section done at once so you can get the paper covered adequately. Blocking the light should suppress the plants/grass below the newspaper/cardboard. If you want to use wood chips to keep the paper in place, that works great also. I actually use both chips and leaves, depending on the season. Rachel

clay is one of the most nutritious soils there are ... just look around your greater area .. im sure its not barren ... the issue is drainage ... and you overcome that by planting high .. and allowing the plants to grow its roots into the clay ... before you kill it after the transplant ... you would take a potted plant.. and dig a hole half as deep as the pot.. and then build a berm with good draining soil ... so the roots can settle from the transplant.. and eventually grow down into the clay ... you should probably start by perking your soil.. to find out if its as bad as you presume ... once you find out how the soil drains.. then you have info to start planting .... https://duckduckgo.com/?q=perk+garden+soil&t=ffab&iar=videos&iax=videos&ia=videos do understand that july and august is not prime planting time for most of us ... see section one at this link.. and then read the rest ... https://sites.google.com/site/tnarboretum/Home/planting-a-tree-or-shrub i think you have a long way to go.. before you even think about playing in gravel ... but if you insist.. thats a whole other show .... do you have any idea why the gravel is there ... does it serve some function .... like a french drain ... if you are new to the house.. maybe the neighbors might know .... ken ps: if you want suggestions on what to plant.. we need to know where you are.. big city name ... and some pix of the situation ... little to me.. might be too big for you .. if you get my drift ...