Vinyl shoe molding (or at least quarter round) is available. It's grouped together in the stores with PVC molding for garages. You can paint it any color you like. Thought truthfully, unless you're doing tons of splashing, or taking long steam showers with the door closed, painted wood baseboards/shoe molding should be fine. We've got them in all our bathrooms. And think about it: your vanities are made of wood. So it's not taboo in the bathroom.

Sumod- The medicine cabinets are simple wood frames with a cabinet-grade plywood back that just sit in the stud cavity. Because of the dimensions, the front of the frame projects about 1"+ beyond the finished wall. The medicine cabinet doors are also plywood with veneered edges and they are attached to the frame with standard cabinet hinges (Euro hinges). The mirrors are just 1/4" plate glass ordered to size from a glass shop and held in place with mirror mastic and a metal strip at the bottom that you don't really see. The guy who did the cabinets just made the medicine cabinets as part of the job. I don't know about the door brand...we live in a large metro area that has lots of door shops and the doors are just solid core maple doors with the center cut out and a maple panel held in with molding. They're not stained; they simply have a couple coats of clear spray lacquer.

enduring, yes that's exactly what happened. The entire bathroom lacked any type of water proofing, whatsoever. They tiled directly to plywood subfloor in the bathroom area (the area under the toilet was also rotten once I uncovered it) and the concrete backerboard they had used was almost entirely disintegrated. Just for fun, I guess, they also did varying lengths of sheet rock around the shower. I ripped that all down as well, and will just be using cement backerboard all the way to the ceiling. Hopefully this will be a great project. Purchased new subfloor (3/4 tongue & groove), 1/2 inch wonder board, redgard, seam tape, and will be sizing in some (http://www.homedepot.com/p/MARAZZI-VitaElegante-Grigio-12-in-x-24-in-Porcelain-Floor-and-Wall-Tile-15-6-sq-ft-case-ULRT1224HD1PR/205473907) tile from HD. It was a 48 inch pan, but instead of replacing it, I'm going to do a tile floor replacement. Letting the tile from the bathroom floor extend once past a bumper and all the way up the walls. All of this from a peeling piece of old wallpaper!

I'm not quite sure why you would need to get down to the actual subfloor for any reason. If the new tile backer board is in good shape and stable and the tile adheres well, that is your new floor. I also doubt you have "hardwood" under the tile floor in a bathroom. In an older home it might be wood planks for a subfloor, but it would not be hardwood. The ceramic drain of a toilet does no sit on the floor flange (they use a very thick wax seal), so you might not have an issue with the flange's vertical spacing. The seal is about 1 1/2" (or more) thick, so you have a lot of space to play with. Slip some pieces of tile up under the existing flange so you have a flat place for the toilet to sit. Then set your toilet in place (no seal) and see if the flange is so high that the toilet will not set fully down on the tile. If it does set flat, things are fine. If it turns out to be too high, you just need to replace the toilet flange. This is a common repair for plumbers because the flange breaks, so there are various repair alternatives. For example, you can use a dremel (or a special plumbers tool) to cut the pipe from the inside and remove the flange. Then trim the pipe to the right pipe and install a repair flange. I would use one with a metal flange instead of plastic. Search youtube for videos on replacing a toilet flange on a PVC pipe. Bruce