Amen, Glenn. I started when I was 12 helping Dad on weekends and evenings when Mom worked. At 15, I helped during evening weekends, and summer vacations (and getting paid!) when he went out on his own. At 17, I went to the Armstong School of Resilient Installation to learn all that I could, which was before certifications. They confirmed shool completions back then but didnt "certify" as they do now. All my life I have been taught on the job and Dad pulled me aside when other co-workers and his bosses did things inappropriately to save time and cut corners, telling me this isnt the way you should do this, but we do what we have to when we work for someone else. Every facet from pattern scribing inlaid resilient sheet in a room full of pipes and old radiators, all the way down to professionally and expertly installing vinyl/rubber cover base corners. Nothing was too big or too small to do right. At 21, me and Dad had a falling out in business. He had his own busienss now doign commercial and residential subcontract work and was becomming like so many others we laughed at and despised for doing shoddy work to make a buck, then I went out on my own. I am not maligning my Father. I love Him and he taught me pretty much evrything I know, but I couldnt do the work he was asking me to do anylonger when I knew it wasnt right. He had changed. Business had changed him. Money and time was becomming more important that job quality. Business certainly isnt easy, but a time comes when it's either right or its wrong, with little middle ground. Whhen professionals hit that crossroad, then take the wrong path, it changes them, and each time they elect that improper path, it makes the next crossroads easier and easier to take the wrong path, until the day comes that money and time means more than giving people who trust use with their work a professional job. I am an advocate of installer and buiness educataion no matter how they go about obtaining it, whether that be on the job, through a mentorship, union apprentiship, manufacturer or distributor training session, or certification. If certifications are the only way they can get proper training, they shoud go get it. Consumers need to step up and make a fuss when anything isnt exactly how they want it to be. We live in a low cost wallmart and home depot world, where as long as the price is right, they can live with almost anything. As an employer, I instill in my men and women the same installation and customer service values my Dad originally instilled in me, and I demand that on every job. I believe much of the talent has moved to the commercial spectrum too. Its where the money is at. Interesting you should say that (about commercial work getting the good men). When I left Dad, I went all commercial for about 10-11 years before we started opening up stores. Did alot of traveling and made alot of money. Now we bring those values and quality to the residential sector. In the end if something isnt done right, it doesnt matter why.

Didn't tile a bathroom, but did do our kitchen (DIY). One other item to consider is the height of the new tile floor - by the time you add backerboard, thinset/mortar, tile, etc, you're going to gain about an inch or so. That might be an argument for pulling up the existing floor/subfloor. But that isn't necessarily required, if it's sound and you don't mind the (potential) elevation change. Personally, I would pull out the vanity temporarily and tile under it. It can look a little odd to lose part of the bottom of the vanity to tile (this also facilitates installation - a consideration if you're going to DIY). Same thing with a toilet, though you said you were going to replace that. You would remove any molding that touches the floor - quarter round, baseboard, door casing, etc. Label them carefully as you take them off, if you're going to reuse them! LOL Once the new tile is in, dried, grouted, etc, these would get reinstalled (and would likely need cut to a new height/length). Depending on the clearance you have under your doors now, they may or may not need cut down in height. If they're not solid doors (i.e. are hollow-core), there's a definite limit to how far they can be cut down. Depending on how mathematically inclined you are, look into "deflection ratings" for tiles (or ask the flooring forum). That will give you some idea about what type of subfloor, etc, you should be looking into.

You're great, Bill. My darling contractors are great, too, but in other areas, not this one. They couldn't imagine not doing shoemold to the point that they literally didn't understand my earnest confirmations (I thought) that it wouldn't be used and put it everywhere. And I had to to let them because the hardwood only came up to somewhere near the baseboards. Oh, well. I tell myself it's a true traditional look.

OK....so you DO NOT LIKE the HARDWOOD...so you've decided to cover up the TILE? Hmmm. Not the way I would go about it. It makes NO SENSE to cover up an 'acceptable' floor (in your eyes) to make the UGLY floor look 'better'. It's like putting on new shoes when you HATE the dress you are wearing! The shoes will NOT make you feel any better about how you are dressed. Change the thing you DO NOT LIKE. That is the BIGGEST return you will have. If you do not, you will have wasted money on COVERING up the WRONG floor. Let's walk through what you are about to do. First, you will purchase ++square feet of RIGID vinyl planks (not the cheap stuff....NOOOOOO....the GOOD stuff for $8/sf - zoinks!). Now you will realize you must PREPARE the tile. Yah....you need to FILL the grout lines. Add $2/sf for labour to do that. Excellent, your cheap fix = $10sf and you haven't CHANGED a darn thing. Perfect! Now you have to INSTALL the vinyl. Right. Add $3/sf for the cost of a professional to install. Great. We have now spent $13/sf. But wait! That STUPID HARDWOOD is STILL THERE! Oh no! I still have to live with the UGLY! And I spent all this money! I still hate the HARDWOOD! Wow. I wish I had replaced the hardwood! I don't have any money left! I spent it on the tile. Grrrrrrr! Remember: it is TOUGH to get vinyl over tiles. It is more work (read: costs more money) than you EVER thought possible. A decent hardwood floor + install will cost $10-$15/sf = includes labour and materials. Think it through before you cover up the WRONG floor.