Reprogram it immediately for 3x per week and about 25% more time. The goal here is to reach once a week watering, a full inch at a time (if nature hasn't delivered it). For that reason, I'm not a fan of auto-programmed timers unless they've also got an integrated moisture monitor or ET (evapotranspiration) sensor. Every two to three weeks, remove 1 of the weekly waterings and increase the time appropriately. Also, measure the amount of water going down by putting used tuna cans on the lawn (tuna cans happen to be almost exactly an inch, so you can get a good visual guide). If it rains, it counts, and if I have to irrigate I often try to time it with a rainfall (the neighbors think I'm insane) to bring the total up to 1". Watering excessively tends to encourage thin, weak roots and (ta da!) fungal diseases. Plus excess weeds, insect problems, and so on. In southern Minnesota, you're going to be able to get away with less than once a week through most of the season, but probably not in July and August. Here in eastern Pennsylvania, I last irrigated in May. The lawn looks great, but we've had a fair amount of rain through June and July, and while August is drier, we're getting enough to hold the lawn with no issues.

cut & paste from another thread this morning: "Quinclorac kill crabgrass. It's the active ingredient in Drive XLR8, you can use any brand and it will work. Some people (reeljake) uses Sulfosulfuron (Sedge Ender) and it works fine as well. People have have pretty good results keep most weeds out of their bermuda with Celsius and Sulfosulfuron. Plus there is no issues related to applying in hotter temps. Reeljake also uses Dimension with active ingredient dithiopyr as his pre-emergent, I use Prodiamine. With either you want year round coverage to keep ALL WEEDS from germinating. You will need to start your PreM asap to keep winter weeds at bay, then again in Spring for Spring/Summer weeds. PreM: Prodiamine or Dimension Crabgrass: Quinclorac or Sulfosulfuron General weeds (post-emergent): Celsius - 2,4-D will work also but turns grass yellow If you get the correct products, it won't matter what the weed is, it either will never germinate in your yard, thanks to the PreM, or will die when sprayed with the post-emergent."

Your other photos confirm the ID - it is rosemary. As Ken notes, rosemary is NOT a conifer - it is a flowering shrub. Die back such as that appearing on your plant is most often due to a fungal issue.....typically a root rot associated with poor drainage or overwatering. If that is the case here - and you would need a plant pathologist to confirm - then simply cutting out the affected areas is unlikely to halt the spread of the disease. And even if it does, Ken makes an excellent point that it will take time for any new growth to fill in and give the plant a more uniform appearance. I would recommend removal and replacement. As noted, rosemaries are common, inexpensive to purchase and grow rapidly in suitable climates. They need a relatively lean, very well draining soil and minimal watering once established. And I would not recommend shearing - rosemary is best left in its natural form (excessive pruning itself can cause die back) and you will then get the benefit of its great flowering potential as well.Rosemary in bloom. If you need a smaller scaled shrub for that location or one that can be routinely pruned or sheared, I'd pick something other than rosemary. Lavender, dwarf rockrose (Cistus species), 'Little John' Callistemon, 'Wheeler's Dwarf pittosporum or even a dwarf mugo pine (Pinus mugo 'Slowmound' or 'Sherwood Compact' or 'Gnome') will give you the conifer look without the need for constant shearing.

I see you have a hose and oscillator sprinkler. That's an excellent start. What is your watering schedule? How often and for how long do you water? Did you fertilize yet this spring? Whether you did or not, now is the time to apply for the first time (or second if you did it in the early spring...which you should not have). Have you applied any herbicides or insecticides? If so, when, and what were they? As for your picture, we cannot see a thing at this altitude. You need to be 3 inches away, not 10 feet. And 3 inches needs to be in the shade or have someone cast a shadow where you are photographing. Get a picture with both green and gray grass. Rather than tease you, though, if this is a disease, regardless of which one, I would recommend applying corn meal at 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. You can get corn meal at a feed store in 50 pound bags for roughly $12 or less this summer. Corn meal is a biological control that seems to work on St Augustine but not on other grasses. Try the corn meal before you try any chemical approach, because the chemicals ruin the biology rendering the corn meal useless as a bio control. Apply to the entire lawn, because you might not realize that the disease has infected the entire lawn. Also do the entire lawn, because corn meal is an organic fertilizer and it will leave deep green spots where you apply, so do the entire lawn. Once you use corn meal to cure St Augustine fungal diseases, you will completely stop worrying about it in the future. It is a complete solution and permanent...until you do something to let it happen again, which I seem to do annually :-( But at least I have a simple, safe, solution. Give the corn meal 3 full weeks to do the job. You will get very anxious about it for 2 weeks thinking nothing is happening. It simply takes 3 weeks, so relax. Between 2 and 3 weeks you will have forgotten about it. Then after about a month you will notice that "suddenly," the yard is perfect and deep green. Also if you are not already doing it, always mulch mow St Augustine at the mower's highest setting. You can let it go 2-3 weeks or longer if your mower can stand it. This will give you a deep rooted grass system that can withstand long periods of heat and go for days without watering. But do, please, tell us about your watering.