It depends on your soil type, but in most areas, 4" of compacted small gravel is considered minimum for drainage and to resist frost heave. Of course, sand is cheaper, so there are driveway installers who use it, but I don't know of any concrete experts who recommend just sand for a driveway base. Sand is acceptable for sidewalks and patios, neither of which endure the weight or stress of heavy vehicles. Your local building department can give you the details of recommended materials and depth for a driveway in your area. I would also be concerned as to whether rebar or standard reinforcing driveway grid was embedded in the concrete. Very wide driveways also require an additional depth of concrete, so the total depth that was poured is important. imo, IF the gridwork was installed and IF your base soil is suitable for compacted sand, then you have a fair chance of not having the driveway crack. Unfortunately, unless your contract with the installer was specific in requiring a sufficient gravel base along with rebar (or grid), I doubt you will have any recourse for replacement or repair of future cracks.

Heavy equipment should have no effect on a proper asphalt driveway. They would be harder on pavers. If you want to protect the edges from cracking with heavy equipment, just place a long 4 X 8 on the soil surface right next to the edge of the asphalt. That way, when the heavy vehicle rolls from the asphalt to the softer ground, the timber will keep the wheels from sinking in and applying pressure to the asphalt edge. In addition, if you are going to put in a pool, it usually is best to have the concrete pumped from a pumper truck for a continuous pour. If you do that, the hose or boom can reach pretty far, and you may be able to avoid having a bunch of heavy traffic running through the yard. I've had dump trucks deliver 17 ton loads of rock to my concrete driveway apron, and they had to get there by driving down my asphalt driveway. There was zero damage.

Thanks for your help. My GC after seeing the work Friday evening was very concerned about improper pitch and did have the company here to view the finished product. The company owner just came over and the small puddles at top are not an issue according to him but while he flooded the drive with a hose the bottom filled with over two inches of standing water which he says can only be repaired by ripping out and regrading which his company will be doing at no extra cost. The environmental impact saddens me though. The patch of inconsistent aggregate is just as roof35 says and is also not ok. The owner acknowledged that the asphalt cooled before rolling and it should have been reheated before rolling so that too should not be there for it will crumble before the rest of the driveway will. The rust is common, should fade and not an issue if it were not the only thing going on. Thanks for the advice

The 'cars' are just estimated shapes. Ideally you could create a little more space by rotating the garage 90 degrees - but that comes with a price tag of an additional ~35k. However, before reading your comment 3onthetree, I actually staged a little experiment. Measured off the 20 foot width of the garage, and the 34 feet from garage to house in a parking lot. Backed out the car on the 'interior side' and the 25' estimate seems to be right about on the money. If you treat it like a parallel parking situation, you end up with plenty of room to get that car out. Gonna try for the two 9 ft doors or one 18 ft, but w 20 ft garage width, ill have to see what the contractor says. Many thanks for weighing in!!!