In middle of shower remodle and need help!
Our contracter left this afternoon, telling me the small glass shower accent is difficult because they move so much. Which, I'm sure is correct, but I got a bad feeling when he said that. My husband and I took a close look and it doesn't look like its even salvageable. He leaves his guys and doesn`t communicate enough. The glass was cut and spaced to follow the grout lines and not one seamless accent line and has a massive amount of cement behind it. I'm sure the glass accent wasn't done correctly, but it could be the whole project. Hopefully, someone can advise us either to quit worrying or find someone to fix the mess.
Comments (15)
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Need help fast, in the middle of framing!
Comments (13)There is no need to eliminate the trim or measure the existing framing; you just need to add up the dimensions (3.75" trim + 30" door + 3.75" trim) - 60" room width = 22.5" If you choose a lav. and vanity (or a pedestal lav.) that is no deeper than 22.5" you are done. There are countless ways to meet that requirement. The pedestal lav. I drew is only 20" deep and the vanity top with the underhung lav. is exactly 22.5" deep but I set the wall back 4" to allow a 32" door and avoid a tight fit between the counter top and the trim. However, if a family member becomes wheelchair bound in the future it is highly likely that they would use a motorized chair which can go virtually anywhere able-bodied people can go except stairs and possibly showers. And ramps can be much steeper. Toilet transfer must still be thought out carefully. I have a client who has started using a motorized wheelchair since out first project. I am now modifying his residence for him. His mobility is astounding and I have to run to keep up with him which seems to amuse him....See MoreNeed help for design! shower door layout & installation
Comments (7)I need help to understand what I'm looking at. I am an engineer and used to reading drawings with certain symbols. You have used different symbols than I've seen, so can you please explain what yours mean? Normally I would make some guesses at what the symbols mean but I see enough inconsistency that I hesitate to guess. I think I recognize the toilet and doors, and possibly the sink, but what do the sunspots and various colored ovals mean? And why is the floor partially shown with "tiles" and part of the floor is not? Is the space outlined in blue "walls" a separate room? If so can't the door open inward to that room? Otherwise you have a door in your back at the sink or a door blocking the heater. What is the meaning of the color of the walls? You have skinny thin black walls, blue, aqua, and pink/flesh colored walls. By using your own symbol for a toilet, you may not be representing the actual size. The front of a toilet is usually 30 inches from the wall. If your floor markings are 1-foot squares, then you might have problems. For another example, a 36 inch wide entry door is very large, and your drawing shows the door through to the wet room being more like 29 inches. One of the reasons for making drawings before hand is to fit everything in. If your drawings are not accurate to at least the 1/4 inch, it could very easily double your costs when the plumbers and carpenters cannot make everything fit in the room. How do you put a 62.00 inch long tub into a 60-inch long room? Where does your waste basket go? Where does your toilet paper holder go? Where do the towel racks/hangers go? What is the prominent pink arrow? What are the blue and white dots in the wall by the heater in Plan A? Why is the wet room in Plan B larger than Plan A? Plan A has a black area in the upper left corner of the wet room. What is that? And is that a tub to the right? I don't get that room at all. Do you have ventilation in the wet room? What is the symbol in the middle of the right hand wall (I assume the pinkish thing outlined in dashed lines is a wall), back of the toilet, and back of the sink? If your shower is really six feet long, you can easily keep the towels inside the room with you and they should not get wet. My parents used to have a 5-foot long shower and much of it stayed very dry. And if that is your shower and some of those ovals are faucet handles, that means you have to walk all the way in to the shower, right under the shower head, to turn on the water to heat it up. If you put the faucet handles near the door and the shower head on the far wall, then you can reach in, turn on the water, and not get wet. Is your wet room completely sealed by the door?...See MoreBathroom Floor/Tile Remodling HELP!
Comments (1)First off Chris, what you're referring to as the "step" is actually called the "curb". That had me confused until I looked at the pics. :^) While the Kerdi waterproofing your installer used is an excellent system, it only functions properly is done correctly. Your installer failed to adequately wrap the curb and tie it into the walls. Apparently he knew enough to be dangerous. Making repairs on Kerdi can be done, but it's tricky. It's something best avoided, if possible. My concern is if your original guy botched the curb this badly, what else did he screw up that just hasn't started showing signs of damage yet? If I was in your current tile guy's shoes, I'd probably be advising the same. Plus, he tries to repair it and it still manages to leak, now it's on him. If he starts over, he can stand behind the whole thing. Now, push come to shove, could a repair be done? Yes, it could, but it would come with few guarantees. You'd have to take out the tile in the offending areas around the curb as carefully as possible and wrap it all properly and use a generous amount of Kerdi Fix adhesive in areas where it's not possible to overlap the existing and new Kerdi by the minimum required 2". There's a good bit of both skill and luck needed to make it happen. While I wouldn't let him in my house again, have you at least contacted the original guy?...See MoreNeed help with master shower designs
Comments (5)If your primary goal is for the front wall to be 100% glass, you can do that and still have the shower head in the middle of that glass wall. Just bring the plumbing up from the floor, or down from the ceiling, along the face of the glass. You can even have the exposed plumbing on the bathroom side of the glass wall, with it running through a hole in the glass so you can then mount the shower head inside the shower space. Do a search for "exposed shower plumbing" and you'll see some examples. You'll probably not see many on glass walls, that's not common. But when it makes sense to have exposed plumbing on a glass wall? Feel free to do it if it's your best option. Another alternative? I've only done this a few times, but since none of your walls work out very well for a shower head, in the past I've dropped the shower head supply pipe down vertically from the ceiling with the shower head at the end of the vertical drop. It allows a shower head in the middle of the shower space, away from the walls. I think your windows would see less water with the shower head on the front glass wall with the head pointing towards the windows than they would with the head between the windows, pointing away from the windows. Windows in a shower? Non-wood windows perform best. But if you're stuck with wood windows, a good proper prep and top coat can help with water resistance. I'll typically use a topical membrane on the shower walls and run the membrane from the wall right on to the window jamb, sealing the membrane to the window jamb with a flexible sealant. Then tile over the membrane. It's a unique space, good luck with your installation....See More
chispa
7 years ago
akl_vdb
7 years agoK Sissy
7 years ago
greendreamhome
7 years agoHoly crap! Does your state have a registrar of contractors? Call them immediately for an inspection! Or call your city to inspect; they usually just inspect new builds, but I'll bet they'll inspect your remodel if you ask. (In fact, my tile man just told me that there have been so many problems with leaking remodeled showers in a neighboring city that they are doing inspections of remodels now.)
As roarah and Mongo have said, you have SERIOUS problems. The backer board isn't right AT ALL, both kinds of tile are all messed up, and what's with the mess everywhere? Do NOT let anyone do another single thing to your bathroom until you get an inspection (which will be important when you want to fire this guy and get your money back.)
To give you an example of how the backer board should be, here's a photo of our shower being built. We used Hardibacker.
geoffrey_b
7 years ago
Errant_gw
7 years agochispa
7 years agoJeff Meeks
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoI have to agree with all the other comments.....rip it all out now. If you proceed, you'll be ripping it out in a year anyway and fixing a lot of water damage as well.
One (but there are many) obvious give away of a bad job is that in your second photo the pan liner does not wrap the entire curb. It's been screwed to the top of the curb and then cbu has been screwed over that. So the curb is not waterproofed and water will soak through the grout lines and into the wood. Here is what a shower should look like prior to the wall tile going on. Notice you cannot see any exposed cbu or joints because they have all been taped and filled with thinset and the entire surface and floor covered with a waterproof membrane. Notice how the curb is also waterproofed and the top of the curb is a single piece of marble to minimize grout joints.
Poopie Doop
7 years ago
millworkman