Any tips how to emotionally detach from a home
lucy0214
7 years ago
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we're selling our house by ourselves - any tips?
Comments (24)Too many photos. You only need 1 photo of the dining room and don't need to photograph every bedroom and only 1 or 2 of the front of the home. The living room photo, move that orange/brown leather chair before you take the next photo. It hides the room. You can slide it back after the photo. Also, you need contact info and asking price on the web site. Also, you need several bullet points that describe the house and/or area on the web site. Maybe talk about the square footage and lots size also. maybe taxes and age of house and major features (new furnace, roof, fireplace, x bedrooms, 2 car heated garage, etc)? Don't list small crap that everyone has, like garage opener and such. What made you BUY the place? Often that is a selling point as well that you can market. List on craigslist.com as well and post 4 photos and write about a paragraph or so. And repost on craigslist about every 10 days. Don't get lazy and not post the photos, thinking the web site link will do. Folks need to see the pix on craigslist or they won't go to your web site. Also ref to your web site from craigslist. Get a custom made For Sale sign for your front yard. Go to a sign shop. They make them for under $100. It is well spend. You pick the color, font, sign size. I usually go bigger than the standard R.E. sign. Pick a color that will stand out against the green grass or white snow. I like electric blue and yellow. You can even use an icon, such as a golf club if that was the type of home you were selling. Put major features (finished basement? acre lot? waterfront?)on the sign and # bedrooms, bathrooms and your phone number. Get flyers for the front yard. Keep them in the little box that you put next to/on the sign. Keep the flyers stocked. realize neighbors will take them, especially the first week. Don't worry, it is natural curiousity. Also reference the web site on the flyer, saying for more PHOTOS go to www.sitexyz. Make sure you have at least one front photo on the flyer. Have price and address in bold either at the top or right below the photo in large/bold. Have your contact info easy to see on flyer. I sold several FSBOs, so am giving you advice that truly will help you. Also, I suggest a discount broker to get into MLS. But then you have to pay an agent that brings the buyer (2.5-3%). If you do this, you need to be able to not pay this commission if you sell to someone that doesn't have an agent. In my case, this occurred and I simply paid the $400 or so to get the listing into MLS, and nothing more. Good luck. it is hard work. Then screening the callers is not easy either. Neighbors might lie to get in to see the place. they say their uncle(or mother, brother, etc) is looking to move and they are looking for him. BS 97% of the time. Return all calls pronto. Good luck....See MoreHow Do You Emotionally Move On From A Home You Love?
Comments (20)"If my child tested positive for lead - I'd dump that old POS and never look back...." My son has an autistic spectrum disorder, and like many parents, I have had him tested for lead, mercury, etc. Also like many parents, I have since found out that many of the lead-testing protocols are complete B.S. developed and promoted by charlatans trying to extract money from parents desparate for 'cures'. Of course, I have no way of knowing how valid your childrens' tests and/or test results are, and how valid the results of your home's tests were/are. My point is just to suggest that you really dig into the company and testing methodology you used to make sure they are highly reputable and scientifically validated before selling a house you love to move to a place you're lukewarm about. It would be a real shame for you to find out it was all for nothing down the road......See MoreWorking with an architect for building new house..Any tips?
Comments (10)Everyone has their own approach to this situation. As a retired architect and educator, let me give you the architect's side. You have put yourself in the hands of an experienced professional for a situation which you have little expertise or experience. Your role is to share your "Needs" (essential) and "Wants (optional), as well as information about your site and your budget. If you have preliminary ideas about the architectural character of your house you should share them in an initial discussion. Your architect should listen well and respond with preliminary design studies, explaining what the studies do and do not. Preliminary design often works best if you and the architect work on the designs together in the office, s/he sketching and explaining, you listening and responding, until a sound direction is established. Once the preliminary design directions are established and agreed to, the project becomes more and more specific and the process tends to move more and more to automatic. By the time of the construction drawing and specifications, the process will be largely automatic by the architect and any necessary consultants. Like working with any professional--attorney, accountant, architect--you must establish a relationship based on mutual respect, trust and understanding. Some humor also helps. If you disagree over something, discuss the pros and cons, and like any adults arrive at a mutually acceptable decision and move on. You may question your doctor's advice, but you do not question her/his expertise. Same with the architect. Arrive at a decision and move on--there's a lot to do in the design of a house. Finally, as for aesthetics, the design of a house is a balance (read, compromise) between interior functioning, exterior massing and detailing, and siting. All of these must successfully be integrated with one another for a successful house design. The great mistake many consumers make is to spend inordinate amounts of time initially studying and resolving the floor plan frequently resulting in a large, complex grouping of interior spaces without a parallel and similarly rigorous study of the exterior possibilities and the important siting of the home. This approach is a mistake because by the time a highly detailed plan is fully completed it's often impossible to hang any sort of reasonable exterior design on it. One is left to simply put a roof over it and some exterior materials on the walls. This is why so many tract home appear so similar and appear so large, overinflated and out of scale when viewed from the exterior. Thus, work early with your architect to explore and develop both the inside, he outside and the site plan together in the preliminary stages. You'll be glad you did later when the project goes on automatic and the construction drawings and specifications are produced. A final word: seriously consider retaining the architect as your representative during bidding and construction, unless you are a construction expert yourself. Lots of things happen during construction and you (and most consumers) need a knowledgable and experienced representative looking out for their best interests. Good luck on your project!...See MoreAny tips on hiring a structural engineer for house leveling
Comments (10)Thanks you so much everyone who’s stopped by and share thoughtful insights. As I mentioned earlier, that was my first project as a first time homeowner, it derailed( licensed with states) then hired another licensed GC whom I needed to file a claim against his insurance company and won the case. So I’d say Just thought of hiring GC exhausted me. But Lyndee has some good point and will do more due diligence on choosing contractor in the future. Hence here I am seeking advice what to ask, what needed to included in written contract, what to expect etc with SE. The scope of work is adding a beam on the load bearing wall( central) the house is divided by hallway in the middle, living/dining/kitchen in on one side and the bathroom and bedrooms on the other side of hallway. Think it’s pretty typical craftsmams house in 1910’s. The beam is located in the other side of hallway on the living room side and I think the beam should have been below the bedrooms side because that side has continua wall from back to the front and between those narrow 40” hallway, bedroom side wall is settled about 1” heavy weight without any support. For 1” dip in 100 some plus years house, I would have been okay with it but only the hallway is so narrow, 1” dip in 40” wide is very noticeable. And to make the matter worse, from that point to bedroom edge, it’s dipping another 1”, would have been relatively simpler if the hallway was shallow V meaning the the perimeter walls didn’t settle then I could raise the hallway. I’ve met few SE in the past and they look at the house( not go down to crawl space) told me to better leave the house as is since the settlement had happened very slowly over the years, that I might do more harm than good by disturbing it. Told me structurally okay( but again, only quick glance on the floor level and attic standing at the attic ladder spot) so I moved on. Some were free estimate but some I paid fee. Alas, now that I’m doing a bathroom remodeling wonder if I’ll have better luck this time....See Morecpartist
7 years agokathyg_in_mi
7 years agoRenee Texas
7 years agocpartist
7 years ago
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