Keyboard Error. Time & Date Not Set
10 years ago
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- 10 years ago
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Keyboard Trouble (solved but curious)
Comments (8)It's why I don't use sleep mode, there's always some sort of issue with it on a lot of computers. I leave mine on a lot and even then for no apparent reason it will freeze and a hard shut down is necessary, I have shut down issues too Win 7...When I shut down I get often waiting for background program to close.......See Morekernel_stack_inpage_error
Comments (1)XP "Stop 0x00000077" or "KERNEL_STACK_INPAGE_ERROR" Link to Microsoft page below. If check disk didnt run when it restarted you maybe want to run it manually and probably would be a very good idea for you to run a safe mode virus scan that someone will guide you that more of a securtiy guru than I want to be. Here is a link that might be useful: Stop error 77...See MoreBuilder Patio Error - Now What?
Comments (5)joanne, First, the Tyvek. and these comments are somewhat directed towards aidan's last post: "Tyvek is too airtight to let the walls breathe. Vapor barriers are essential, but it has to be done right. " Tyvek has a perm rating of 58. It is not a vapor barrier, not even close. A vapor barrier has a perm rating of less than 1. The micro-pore structure of Tyvek allows moisture vapor to pass through it, but not liquid moisture. Now problems with Tyvek can occur when siding like unpainted cedar or redwood siding is in direct contact with the Tyvek. Extractants in those woods can mess up the micro-pore structure of the Tyvek membrane. But these shingles are fiber-cement, so no worries there. If cedar or redwood is to be used over Tyvek the wood can be backprimed or installed over a rain screen to isolate the wood from the housewrap. "Asphalt impregnated paper...is more breatheable than tyvek, but the same effectiveness as a vapor barrier." Tar paper has a moving perm rating, generally from about 5 when it is dry to about 60 when the relative humidity is in the 95% range. So when tar paper is wet or vapor saturated is has a perm rating (60) similar to Tyvek (58). When tar paper is dry (perm rating of 5) is resists the passage of moisture vapor much more than Tyvek (perm rating of 58). As to either being an air barrier, Tyvek is a more effective air infiltration barrier, especially if the seams are taped with Tyvek tape. Tar paper, due to more seams and it's structure, allows more air to pass through than Tyvek. One thing to be careful of with tar paper or felt is that most of the ASTM testing done on felt was with 15#, or "15 pound" felt. This was the "old" felt that was made from wood pulp and that had 15 pounds of asphalt impregnated into each 100 square feet of paper. The "new" felt is usually labeled #15, or "Number 15" felt, it's made of recycled paper and cardboard, and only has half the amount of asphalt, roughly 8 pounds, per 100 square feet of material. And it's usually not stapled with any ASTM certification. If it;s worth anything, todays #30 felt has abour 15 pounds of asphalt or tar product per 100 square feet. So "#30 felt" could actually be called "15-pound felt." Oh, the humanity! So what am I, a tar paper hater? Not at all. For quite a few applications I prefer it to Tyvek. I'm just trying to clarify a few things. As to flashing, in a perfect world there would be a "peel and stick" membrane used to flash the window/door openings in addition to the Tyvek wrapping the opening. It's too difficult for me to see how your windows are flashed. Flashing can depend on the construction of the windows...are they installed with a nailing flange and then trimmed out, or did they come with the flat casing already attached? Personally Id like to see peel and stick membrane (like Protecto-Wrap) used on the window pan as well as the window jambs and header. How it is flashed depends on the construction of the window. As to the pavers versus concrete, hopefully they sloped that concrete slab away from the house. If it is sloped, you can use most any stone over it. If you want to stick with the paver look and minimize the elevation gain, there are "thin pavers" or "overlay pavers" that are bout 1" thick and they are just for this purpose...getting the paver look over a concrete slab....See Morecountertop installation - comedy of errors - please help
Comments (21)Hollysprings: I was not asking them to do more than their trade. I asked them what I needed and followed their advice. If I knew a GC was needed when I hired a company to install granite, I would have hired a GC. I had 2 people from their company who came to my home to take measurements and was told supports were not needed. Even after asking them a couple times, one guy said if you really really really want it, go ahead and get a bracket for a the small piece - you don't need it. The day before my install, I spoke to them and said we may need to reschedule because I think I need support brackets and will need to order them because I could not find any locally. My concern was based on info I found here stating anything over an 8" overhang needs support. At that point, I thought my overhang was 10". He said it's not needed because it was an L-shaped piece and the base of the L supported the length. Like I said earlier, he even sent a text to me the next morning saying only the small piece needs support. This is not a matter of making myself GC - if I was told I needed one, I would have hired one. I went to a company that specializes in flooring, counters, etc, not a one-man shop. Maybe it's just me, but I find it odd that anyone would install something that's unstable. It was during my phone call with him the night before the install that he said we could not cancel the install but he'll have his guys bring 2x2s the next day that way I have something until I get someone to install the brackets. Like I said, I don't want to be unreasonable. The work was done on Thursday(has not been completed) and I wanted to get advice on what's normal. 1. If the sink cutout is to be expected, fine. It's not ideal and it won't be perfect, but I can live with it. 2. I've seen posts here saying the seam should be hard to detect. Prior to the installation, he said the seam would be very hard to detect especially with the stone I have - black galaxy. Well, it's not. This seam width is 1/16" and it's not smooth at all. You can see this seam from anywhere in the room. Not only is it visible, it's very rough and one end is more raised that the other. I even had to call him when they were still here because this did not look right. The final product is nothing like I expected. 3. Based on this site and info online, I know I need support brackets. According to the rep, I only need one. According to their installers, I need 7. According to Trebuchet, I need 4 or 5. Looking at the picture posted, I think that's because the brackets are about 3 feet apart not 2 feet. If they'll have to remove the slabs to fix the seams, then I can have a carpenter install Centerline hidden brackets. If they don't need to remove the slabs, I'll go with L-brackets. Not ideal, but I can live with those. I'm not a fan of corbels or those decorative pieces are only good for banging your knees - I'm 5' 11. The less obstruction, the better....See More- 10 years ago
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