Hold onto my cash or take smaller mortgage?
10 years ago
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To pay off or not to pay off mortgage - pls check my #'s?
Comments (38)Hi graywings, I started reading this thread without noting the dates the posts were written. Dave, I don't want to put you on the spot, but I am wondering how the accounts you spoke of in 2007, the 72c Guaranteed Savings accounts (equity-indexed fixed life contract, or annuity contract) have weathered over the last three years. Heh... you can "put me on the spot" in this regard *ANY* time ;~) Both the equity indexed life & annuity products have *VERY* strongly outperformed the unprotected stock index markets over the same periods of time (since 2007. In fact, going back from today to almost as far as you'd like.) Their design is that they capture & credit any annual upside (to a maximum gain,) and lock that amount permanently to your credit. On any years with a downside, your account sits tight with no losses at all (guaranteed by the insured backings of the company reserves and the state's guarantee association (each state's equivalent of a regional "FDIC" in essence.) If you put $100,000 in the S&P 500 for the last decade, you'd actually be holding a bit LESS than $100,000 today (not deducting the tax or management fees that may also be applied.) The same $100,000 in an insured indexing account would be approximately $211,768, net of everything (taxes & fees,) *OR* about an average annual tax-free rate of return of 7.06% Alternatively, those folks who decided to take their working capital OUT of growth, and put it into their real estate equity, have been double-stung; Not only have they gained nothing toward retirement, their equity values have decayed from 10-30% (depending on the area.) The clients who've been with us the last 3-5 years have been rather relieved, ecstatic, and pleasantly bored, all at the same time. Its a very nice financial reality to provide. Cheers, Dave Donhoff Leverage Planner (PS. to re-paraphrase celticmoon; When everyone else's retirement nest-egg is drowning deep underwater... its kinda nice to be riding on the back of a "duck" ;~)...See Morewill seller take wad of cash or insist on getting a check
Comments (27)Actually, Greg...you're incorrect with that assumption. There are a few caveats, however. If I, as an individual, am conducting a garage sale Saturday morning & you hand me cash for that old dresser I've got...I could refuse to accept your cash...maybe. Possibly, not even then if you were to actually take me to Small Claims Court. Why? Because by offering my dresser at the garage sell, it could easily be argued that I was willing to enter into a contract to sell the dresser for some price. If I agreed to your price offer...cash is "legal tender" for payment in the US. Fearing for one's safety does not negate cash being "legal tender". Imagine what a nighmare this country would be in if everybody could go around saying, "I won't accept your American dollars as legal tender"? That was a problem back in the days of the old Silver Certificates that were issued by individual banks. We corrected the problem and now have a centralized banking system with one national currency. And, to answer your question more directly... If I'd signed a P&S Agreement with a Seller and I arrived at closing with cash & the Seller would not accept my cash as "legal tender"...you bet your life I'd sue. And, I'd win. That's the law of the land...like it or not. Cash remains "legal tender" in the US. You just can't escape that. Now, it's certainly not always practical to pay with cash which is really what most of you are talking about & I agree with you from that standpoint. But, those who say cash won't be accepted are just wrong. The laws of our country say otherwise. You're getting confused with company policies...it is the company's preference that you not pay with cash. But, by Golly, if you don't trust banks & all you ever use is American Greenbacks...that company legally has to accept your currency. They may huff...and they may puff...because it's a PITA for them; but, they HAVE to accept your cash. Tricia...See MoreArticle: Mortgages: Smaller Banks Smell Blood
Comments (27)chisue wrote: "Did you mean to look at the CD yields by deducting the percentage of our tax bracket, or something else?" I'm not a financial planner (and wouldn't want to steer you in the wrong direction) so I would suggest asking your broker or CPA this question. Martin Weiss (Weiss ratings) talked about treasuries in April 06'. Here is what he had to say. "I can put my keep-safe money in 3-month Treasury bills or in a Treasury-only money market fund. The advantages are many: Advantage #1. Safety. As long as I wait the 13 weeks until my T-bills mature, the Treasury Department guarantees zero risk of loss. And even in the very rare event that I sell them on the secondary market at a loss, the loss would be so tiny I'd need a microscope to see it. Is the U.S. Treasury really a good credit risk? Some people are so concerned about the government's bulging debts and run-away deficits they're beginning to wonder, and I don't blame them. But it's still the highest rated borrower on the planet. So until someone offers me a better alternative, that's where my keep-safe money is staying. Advantage #2. Rising yield. A couple of years ago, the yield on short-term Treasury bills was hovering so close to the zero line it felt like I was paying the government for the privilege of loaning it my money. Plus, at that time, there was a big gap between the ultra-low yield on 3-month T-bills and the still-decent yield on 30-year Treasury bonds. But now T-bills yields have mostly caught up, and the gap has narrowed tremendously. Every time the Fed hikes interest rates by a quarter point, the yield on my T-bills promptly rises by about a quarter point. And every time Wall Street trumpets no more rate hikes coming, the Fed sends not-so-subtle hints that it's going to raise them some more. That's what happened after the last Fed meeting. And from everything I can see, that's what's going to continue happening after the next Fed meetings for as far as the eye can see. Good. My T-bill yield, although still not high enough to give me any thrills, just keeps moving up and up. Advantage #3. Liquidity. With a Treasury-only money fund, I can get my money out so quickly it's like having the cold cash in my night table when I wake up every morning. I can write checks on the fund to immediately pay my bills. Or I can call the fund and have them wire the money to my local bank within 24 hours. Advantage #4. One Account. Some people have bank accounts coming out of their ears. They've got checking accounts, savings accounts, money market accounts and various CDs under the $100,000 FDIC limit. I don't. Except for a local checking account I use for small monthly bills, I have just one single, multi-purpose Treasury-only money market account that does it all. It's not FDIC insured. But that doesn't bother me because the U.S. Treasury Department guarantees all the securities that the fund buys on my behalf. Advantage #5. Exempt from local income taxes. On the surface, the yields on CDs and Treasuries are similar. But there's a significant difference: The Treasuries and Treasury-only money funds are exempt from local and state income taxes. Bank CDs and money funds invested in CDs are not. This isn't an issue for us now because we live in Florida, and Florida has no state income taxes. But it certainly would have made a difference when we lived in New York. Ditto for states like California or Massachussets. Advantage #6. Inflation protection. People ask: Suppose inflation surges or the dollar falls in value? What good are your dollar-denominated Treasury bills going to do you then? Answer: I get most of my protection from the rising yield: The higher inflation goes, the better my yield is going to get. Will the higher yield always be enough to cover the loss in the dollar's purchasing power? Probably not. But in any case, I can get the rest of my protection elsewhere." This story is archived at www.moneyandmarkets.com/press.asp?cat_id=25 "The Big Picture" by Martin Weiss-April 17, 2006 He offers a free newsletter as well as other services. A link that might be useful: SafeMoney.com...See Morecash vs. down payment/mortgage re closing costs
Comments (7)Closing costs come along with a mortgage or more accurately I suppose a loan? There are basically two types of closing costs. Those related to the purchase (aka transaction) and those related to borrowing any money to facilitate the transaction. Those related to the transaction are charged whether you are taking out a loan or not. Examples include title insurance, property taxes, transfer taxes, attorneys' fees, agents'commissions, certain other types of insurance. Some of these charges will be a fixed fee, others based on a percentage of the sales price. Some of these fees are charged by the title company and some by the state/local authority. The second set of closing costs are those related to taking out a loan. The appraisal fee (which is usually a fixed charge - say $350)and the origination fees (aka points - which is based on the amount of the loan. Each point is 1% of the loan amount). Seems like a lot of the closing costs come from the title company - and you have to do that anyway? I.e. why are loan closing costs a big deal? Most people finance their home purchases by borrowing the money. It costs money to borrow money. The largest cost of borrowing money is, of course, interest determined by the interest rate. The other big cost of borrowing is the origination fee, aka points. It's a big deal because it is a one-time charge based on the amount borrowed. So, it's variable. A point is 1% of the loan amount. If I'm buying a $500,000 house, borrowing 100%, and paying 1 point, it's going to cost me $5000 (just drop the last two zeroes on the loan amount.)If I put down 50% and finance $250,000, the point will cost me $2500. Some borrowers find it advantageous to "buy down" their interest rate. They might pay 2 points or more to purchase a lower interest rate over the life of the loan. Other borrowers might pay zero points and buy a slightly higher interest rate. Lenders will often tie interest rates and points together as a marketing tool to stand out against their competition. So, depending on the amount financed and the number of points charged, this particular cost of borrowing money can make or break the loan for a potential buyer. And do mortgage related closing costs go up with the amount of the loan? How why? Some do, some don't - see above. Why? 'Cuz. (LOL) Then depending on the last, only buying a house full price/cash is an advantage? A hefty downpayment and smaller loan gets you (no)where? Not necessarily. Sadly, Mary, this is where the math becomes really important. But a good mortgage calculator with a full amortization schedule can be a big help. It will calculate not only the monthly payment but the total interest cost of the loan (prepare for heart failure) and enable you to model different interest rate, loan amount, and payment scenarios. Stop thinking of it as math and start thinking of it as money...playing with money. So when people talk closing costs - are we talking two types? The type you pay no matter what - say you bought full purchase price - or even inherited a house. And the ones that come along with a loan? Which are loan ones and which are not? Yup...see above. Mary, the best way to understand the total transaction costs of a real estate purchase is to take out your settlement statement from you recent home sale. This is called the HUD-1. Then go to HUD's website and follow the line-by-line explanation of what each settlement line means. You'll see right away that the form is divided into loan costs and other costs. Doing this is akin to doing your taxes by hand. Despite the miracle of tax software, you will never understand our tax system better (and how it applies to you) than after you've done your taxes with paper, pencil, and a good tax manual. Something, each taxpayer should do at least ONCE in their lifetime. Same goes for the HUD-1. It's work but it's good work. Hope that helps. The concepts, guidelines, and rules-of-thumb are important but no piece of generic advice will ever replace working the numbers specific to YOUR situation, your financial needs, your psychology, and your future situation. Mary, I know how much you want to buy a home versus renting. You love "home" - it's a passion, a hobby, and a lifestyle for you. You also want a secure financial future and you have doubts about how these two fit together right now. I think it's great that you keep asking questions and seeking answers. I read that you had engaged a financial planner. As you review your decisions, you might want to start a new hobby - getting past math anxiety by learning more about consumer finances and financial planning. The math is such a small part of it. It's much more a process of thinking and mindset. You might want to see if your local county or community college offers financial education classes. It's a great way to meet people who have similar interests and it can become downright addictive. Fifteen years ago, I didn't know there was such a thing as a financial calculator...now, I carry one with me all the time. Playing with mortgage scenarios, calculating investment earnings, etc. is a great way to pass time while waiting in lines...sort of like having your own financial game-boy. Good luck!...See More- 9 years ago
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