Are you spraying your trees for pests before they come in yet?

7 years ago

YOU SHOULD BE...That should of started days ago if you live up north like we do..In an area where your trees will be coming in before the end of October..

This is why I do..You may not see any pests on your trees now because the beneficial ones have been able to destroy them and keep your trees free of issues..

But if you don't, the eggs left behind will hitch a ride inside to your home or growing place and hatch around November, not to be noticed until December and then you are battling bugs all winter long..

If you use a good Horticultural Oil or Fish Emulsions, pure cold extracted, you should be able to suffocate the nymphs and eggs that would other wise hatch and catch you off guard..Also too, water in Neem or a very good natural soapy water into your mixes..Wash your pots and take all dead leaves of the surface of your pots...

Have you ever wondered why you get pest issues in the middle of winter and where they come from when your trees came in clean..There you go..

So spray away..Are you doing it yet?

I did

MIke

Featured Answer

User

7 years ago

I was searching the Internet for information on the systemic insecticidal properties of neem oil and came across articles about cold pressed neem oil and how that was better than other types of neem oil (which I have been using) and I came across an old posting of Al Talpa's below which I think people on this forum might find useful. By the way, the hormone he mentions "Edison" is actually "ecdysone" and it is necessary for molting, not reproduction.

I just ordered some cold pressed neem oil.

Neem Extract as an Insecticide

In India mainly, but also Asia and Africa, grows a tree all plant
enthusiasts should be aware of, Azadirachta indica, commonly known as
the "neem" tree, and a relative of mahogany. Extracts from the trees
seeds contain azadirachtin, a relatively safe and effective naturally
occurring organic insecticide. Let me preface the comments following, by
reminding you that the terms "naturally occurring and/or organic" do
not universally mean safe. Pyrethrums, rotenone, and even the very
dangerous nicotine are all organic insecticides that should be handled
with great caution. Neem extracts, on the other hand are very safely
used in a wide variety of cosmetics, as a topical treatment for minor
wounds, as an insecticide in grain storage containers, bins, and bags,
and a whole host of other applications, and have extremely low mammalian
toxicity. I'll limit this discussion to its use as an insecticide.
Neem works in many ways. It is effective both in topical and a systemic
applications. It is an anti-feedant, an oviposition deterrent (anti-egg
laying), a growth inhibitor, a mating disrupter, and a chemosterilizer.
Azadirachtin, a tetranortriterpenoid compound, closely mimics the
hormone Edison, which is necessary for reproduction in insects. When
present, it takes the place of the real hormone and thus disrupts not
only the feeding process, but the metamorphic transition as well,
disrupting molting. It interferes with the formation of chitin (insect
"skin") and stops pupation in larvae, thus short-circuiting the insect
life cycle. It also inhibits flight ability, helping stop insect spread
geographically

Tests have shown that azadirachtin is effective in some cases at
concentrations as low as 1 ppm, but some producers use alcohol in the
extraction of neem oil from plant parts which causes the azadirachtin to
be removed from the oil. Some products touting neem oil as an
ingredient actually have no measurable amounts of azadiractin. I use
what is referred to either as cold pressed or virgin neem oil. You may
also occasionally find it referred to as "raw" neem or "crude" neem oil.

Neem oil is most often used in an aqueous (water) suspension as a
foliar spray or soil drench. Commonly, it is diluted to about a .5 to 2%
solution, but the suggested ratio for use in container plant culture is
1 tsp. per quart of warm water. A drop or two of dish soap (castile or
olive oil soap is best) helps keep the oil emulsified. The mixture is
then applied as a mist to all leaf and bark surfaces and as a soil
drench to the tree's root system. It should not be applied as a foliar
spray on hot days or in bright sun as leaf burn may occur. Remember to
agitate the container frequently as you apply and do not mix anymore
than you will use in one day. Neem breaks down rapidly in water and/ or
sunlight.
Some users of insecticides feel the need to observe the instant results
of their efforts in order to be convinced of the effectiveness of what
they are using. The application of neem derivatives does not provide
this immediate gratification. There is virtually no knockdown (instant
death) factor associated with its use. Insects ingesting or contacting
neem usually take about 3 - 14 days to die. Its greatest benefit;
however, is in preventing the occurrence of future generations. It is
also interesting to note that in studies it was found that when doses
were given, purposefully insufficient to cause death or complete
disruption of the metamorphic cycle, up to 30 surviving generations
showed virtually no resistance/ immunity to normal lethal doses, so it
appears that insects build no resistance to azadiractin.
I have been using neem oil for five years as both a preventative and
fixative and have had no insect problems on my container plants.
Applications of cold-pressed neem oil are most effective for use on
mites, whitefly, aphids, thrips, fungus gnats, caterpillars, beetles,
mealy bugs, leaf miners, g-moth, and others. It seems to be fairly
specific in attacking insects with piercing or rasping mouth parts.
Since these are the pests that feed on plant tissues, they are our main
target species. Unless beneficial like spiders, lady beetles, certain
wasps, etc., come in direct contact with spray, it does little to
diminish their numbers.
Neem oil does have an odor that might be described as similar to that of
an old onion, so you may wish to test it first, if you intend to use it
indoors. I've found the odor dissipates in a day or two. As always,
read and follow label instructions carefully.
Neem oil can be purchased from many net or local sources. My favorite brand is Dyna-Gro pure, cold-pressed neem oil.

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (138)

myermike_1micha
Original Author
7 years ago
Figs, your husband has a soft spot for slugs..He must be a very good man..lol
figsinhawaii
7 years ago
LOL'ing right with you, Mike! : )
Related Discussions
How many times do you spray your apple trees per year?
Q
Comments (20)
I think the sun-starved fruit tends to drop early for lack of adequate energy. I didn't keep up with scab on pears- I actually didn't realize that it can be a season long battle when it's as wet as it was this year. My 2 Boscs are 60% defoliated and dropped pears early though some are still on tree as did Highland which lost most pears too early to be worth anytning. Seckels did the same, but at least they have decent sugar. Bartlett and another unknown Bartlett type, but later, have completely healthy foliage and great fruit. Aurora stayed healthy but fruits not sweet enough. Most of the Honeycrisp apples, where foliage was fine, dropped a bit before ideal ripeness, or would have if I didn't pick them. Jonagold is thinning itself more than I'd like. All other apples were or are fine. I don't care at all about sooty blotch and fly speck.
...See More
getting the leaves on my fruit trees to fall before spraying
Q
Comments (3)
Whatever knocks off the leaves will probably have same affect so why not just do it in one step with the copper oil? The copper oil shouldn't damage anything besides the leaves it knocks off. Tree has already stored enough energy to come back in early spring or cutting off leaves with scissors would be equally harmful. As long as tree is far enough along to be hardened off, and I'm guessing where you are that requires less transition than in a colder climate, the tree will be fine.
...See More
Pest and disease spray for Apple trees
Q
Comments (8)
I use Myclo with Captan a lot as is the Cornell rec to delay resistance issues with Myclo and because Cap spreads to new growth during light rain. 3 sprays of myclo will absolutely control CAR in my experience at scores of sites with hundreds of varieties over the last 20 years. Often I have relied entirely on myclo for scab and CAR control. Many sites I only use a petal fall and first cover fungicide spray and have never seen bad CAR damage on fruit- at most a few specks on foliage that is harmless. But, of course, timing is everything and I can only speak for conditions in the 2 states (NY and CT) and 2-3 zones where I've managed orchards. I also have a more powerful sprayer than most home growers so it's easy for me to get good coverage. Here's my sched, if you are interested. REPRINT PERMISSION FROM ALAN HAIGH REQUIRED ________________________________________ Low Spray Schedule for Home Orchards in the Northeast Here's my spray schedule for the scores of orchards I manage around SE NY adapted for home owners managing a few fruit trees. It has functioned well for me for over 2 decades, although J. Beetles and brown rot of stone fruit increases the number of sprays and necessary pesticides some years some sites. Stink bugs are also an increasing problem requiring more subsequent sprays when they appear. Time of spray is based on apple bloom as that is the predominant fruit here but I generally get away with spraying all trees at the time I spray apples. Please note that pesticide labels must be read before their use and my recommendations do not override the rules on the label. The label is the law. This document only communicates what has worked for me and your results may vary depending on local pest pressure, which may require a different spray schedule. Spray needs to be applied thoroughly throughout the trees and with a back pack or any human powered sprayer this is more easily accomplished in the morning before breezes usually pick up. Dormant oil (this is optional if there were no mites or scale issues the previous season, which is usually the case in home orchards). Do oil spray from when emerging green shoots are 1/2" to just before the flower clusters begin to show a lot of pink. Mix Immunox (myclobutinol) at highest legal rate (listed on label for controlling scab and cedar apple rust on apple trees) with 1 to 2% oil( 1 to 2 quarts per 25 gallons of water). If it's closer to pink use 1%. Never spray oil on open or almost open flowers. Don't spray again until petal fall when petals have mostly gone from latest flowering varieties and bees have lost interest. Then spray Triazide (Spectracide Once and Done) + Immunox mixed together at highest legal rates. Repeat once in 10 to 14 days. Where I manage orchards, the space between earliest flowering Japanese plums and latest flowering apples is only 2 weeks or so which usually allows me to wait until the latest flowering trees are ready to begin spraying anything. Plum curculio seems to time its appearance conveniently to the rhythm of the last flowering apple varieties. This may not be true where you are. If plums or peaches need oil they may need application before apples. I’ve only had mites on European plums here and never need oil for other stone fruit. All this is based on plum curculio being your primary insect problem which is the case most areas east of the Mis. River. These sprays will also absolutely control scab, CAR and Mildew as well as most of the crop fatal insects. Apple fly maggot is an exception as it tends to emerge a couple of weeks after last spray looses effectiveness, but I haven't had much of a problem with this pest in the orchards I manage. This pest can be controlled with a lot of fake apples smeared with tangle trap. If you don't want to use synthetic chemicals try 4 applications of Surround about a week apart starting at petal fall. You may need to start on earlier flowering varieties as soon as they drop petals because Surround is a repellent and can’t kill eggs after they’ve been inserted into the fruit. When temperatures permit it is good to mix horticultural oil with 2 or those applications as Surround makes a nice home for mites and scale. Stone fruit may require the addition of an application or 2 of Indar (Monterey Fungus Fighter is closest available chemical for home growers) starting 4 weeks before first peaches ripen. Apricots must be sprayed sooner if they are scab susceptible with same compound. On some sites that single spray will also prevent serious rot on later ripening varieties on seasons not particularly wet. If it is wet spray the later varieties again two weeks later. Because I manage so many orchards so far apart I have to resort to a spray schedule that is based on expectations rather than actual monitoring. You may be able to reduce insecticide sprays with monitoring but PC can enter an orchard overnight and if your insecticide lacks kick-back (as is the case with Triazide), do a lot of damage in a couple of days. Other problems may occur later in the season and you will in time learn to monitor and react to the pitfalls. Good luck, Alan Haigh- The Home Orchard and Nursery Co.
...See More
Bringing citrus plants inside
Q
Comments (1)
Here is link will help tremendously....) http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/4179170/are-you-spraying-your-trees-for-pests-before-they-come-in-yet?n=78 Mike
...See More
Laura LaRosa (7b)
7 years ago
I have slugs all over my yard. Yuck! They don't bother my trees however and my philosophy is that if they don't bother my trees, I will not bother them. Once in a while I'll see one on a pot, but I just knock it off. I've never seen any kind of damage on my trees from them. I am like your husband...I hate to kill...although mosquitos and these nasty camelback crickets we have I have no patience for.
User
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
Laura, are you sure slugs have not damaged your trees? Slugs have caused significant damage to a few of my trees. They prefer to munch on new growth. I put out beer traps but my dogs drank the beer. Next time, I will wrap copper wire around the trunks.
myermike_1micha thanked User
figsinhawaii
7 years ago
Laura, I think I would agree with you (and hubby), but they cause significant damage to that one tree. I even found slug eggs (gross!) under the pot. I was amazed to see momma slug wrapped so perfectly around her slug eggs. Under my avocado pot! That was the final straw for me. I don't think they chew on my other trees. I don't see misshapen chewed leaves on any other trees.
myermike_1micha thanked figsinhawaii
Atheen - 7a - in Maryland, USA
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
I sprayed them with insecticidal soap today. I figured, if there was something Neem missed, I could zap it that way. I'll Neem again tomorrow, did the first Neem last Wednesday.

I also moved them to a party of the deck where they will only get morning sun. In a week I'll move them to a full shade zone.

Does anyone know if I can add the Neem to my my foliage pro when I fertilize every other day? I have to Neem the soil 3x at 3 days interval, so I thought I might as well fertilize while I'm doing it.

God bless,

.

Atheen

.

Mike, if you read this, I hope your mom feels better.
myermike_1micha
Original Author
7 years ago
Atheen, thank you so much. I will make sure to let my Mom know. She thinks very highly of everyone here. Her face is still black and blue and I think she has a broken nose(...I told her if your face looks the same by Halloween, she won;t have to buy a mask..She could scare all the kids away..

I would not Neem every time you water..I'm afraid you could over do it..But a light mixture once in a while would be ok..

God Bless you too)

Mike
Atheen - 7a - in Maryland, USA
7 years ago
Mike, you bad boy making fun of your mom! LOL! I don't intend to Neem every time I water, just 3 times at 3 days interval, isn't that what you advised me to do before bringing the tree inside for the winter ?
myermike_1micha
Original Author
7 years ago
Oh ok, then that's fine..I get it..Yes, make concoction and water three time within three weeks...You could water 3 times in a row or skip in between..The key is to make sure you get not only the ones crawling inside, but also the eggs that have yet to hatch..Good job..Just be careful not to over water..Make sure you wait until your mix is almost dry since the cold will be slowing down your trees now..
Atheen - 7a - in Maryland, USA
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
Gave the leaves a big rinse this morning, since I'm Neeming them again tomorrow morning (did it last Thursday). I'll be adding the FP to the Neem/water/soap mix, since tomorrow is also fertilizer day.

Mike, I really don't water them much at all anymore at this point, besides the half gallon they get with their FP and vinegar every other day. It's not warm at all anymore during the day, it's in the 60s, and it rained about oonce a week, so I truly don't think they need more water atm. It's also why I'm combining the Neem with the FP, so I don't have to give then any more water than what they are already getting.

A few pics. They look really happy right now. I can't believe how the small one is exploding with new growth. I wish it would have happened a month ago, but I'll take it :)

The lemons are starting to turn yellow on the small one!!

.

Mike, if you see this, give my best to your mom :)

.

God bless,

Atheen
poncirusguy6b452xx
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
Nice new shoots Atheen

6b Steve Cincinnati, Ohio
Atheen - 7a - in Maryland, USA
7 years ago
Thank you, Steve! Today was overcast which was perfect, since I needed to neem my trees. Which I did, so that's 2 out of 3 applications done. One more next week, and I'll be good to go! I'll do the FP and Neem drench for the soil once they are dry.

It's getting colder in Havre de Grace, MD, where we live. Temps at night went down to 42 degrees last night. It should go back up 45+ tonight, then 42+ish again on Friday before coming back up to the mid and high 50s for the rest of the coming week (we are talking night temps). Do you think I shouldv bring them in at night until Friday? I hope not since it WILL trash my back and Dave can't lift heavy stuff yet, but if you guys think I have to, I will.

In a perfect world, I need another 2 weeks before I bring them in. They are in partial shade right know, they'll go in full shade next Wednesday for a week before coming inside.

How is everyone else's winterizing coming along?

God bless,

.

Atheen
poncirusguy6b452xx
7 years ago
I just spray my trees with 1 TBS Canola oil + 3/4 tsp dawn dish soap in a quart of warm water. I have lost track of my sprayings but Most of my trees have 2 spaying. I have problems of little green worms on my kale so I have been spraying pyrethrin mix to kill them. I also spray the citrus trees with the same if there is any left over.

current forecast.

6b Steve Cincinnati Oh
Chris0333 WI zone 5a
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
As a vet I have to followup Steve's post. Anyone which has indoor cats, please don't spray pyrethrin on your trees before you bring them in your house!

Okay, stepping off my soapbox now. Steve, this is not directed at you (unless you have indoor cats).
Esmeralda Reitz
7 years ago
Hey everyone, do you spray your trees once inside with anything for pests also if so is it the same and how often, thanks
poncirusguy6b452xx
7 years ago
I do not have any pets so I would have not thought about it. I spray a couple mof time with the oil soap solution until the trees go back outside

Steve.
User
7 years ago
Inside, I only spray if pests show up. I put the tree in the shower and spray or put it on a drop cloth or newspapers. Be careful - the spray does drift. I prefer to use Safer insecticidal soap indoors because it is easier to clean up.
myermike_1micha
Original Author
7 years ago
Steve, I know you usually go against the grain in certain thing and you always seem to defy all odds..Good job..But I was wondering if you ever get a damage with the dish soap you use and oil? It seems many on other threads have said that those kinds of soaps and oils can destroy good tissue cells of plants..Toxic basically..
Esmeralda Reitz
7 years ago
What about the soil do you use neem or anything. I don't see pests but want to prevent and keep it that way
myermike_1micha
Original Author
7 years ago
Esmerald..Hello. I don't have to use anything because I have no pests anymore. But whe I did get them, I would spray with a combo of Rosemary Oil, Neem, and Safer soap.....I spray once a month or as needed..Once a month is always a great preventative..I make half does according to instructions...
Atheen - 7a - in Maryland, USA
7 years ago
Guys, if you have a minute, read my post above here, and give me your opinion on what to do with my trees with the temperatures forecast :) thanks!

God bless,

.

Atheen
myermike_1micha thanked Atheen - 7a - in Maryland, USA
poncirusguy6b452xx
7 years ago
I to am dropping down to 42. I will leave all my plants outside until the temperatures approaches 35F.

6b Steve
myermike_1micha thanked poncirusguy6b452xx
Esmeralda Reitz
7 years ago
Thanks Mike
Aya Johnson
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
Atheen - 7a Maryland

I live pretty close to you in Columbia, MD. Just started with my Myers Lemon trees (3) last year. I moved my plants outside for the summer and I became aware about mid-summer the smaller of my three had some kind of soil bug, but it did not seem to be harming the tree. I recently moved my trees indoor and notice I had flying gnats around my pots. I did prior research and was prepared to handle it. A couple of weeks ago I ordered Neem Cake from a website company called "buildasoil." I sprinkled a little on the top soil and made a tea to drench the soil. Almost immediately, the gnats started to die. I'm on day two and almost no gnats. When using the Neem Cake, you have to let the soil dry out a little, not too much so as not to stress the trees. The biggest culprit for causing soil gnats is moist and organic soil ( which both the lemon tree needs and gnats love). In hindsight my little lemon bush was really struggling this year and after a lot of reading, I now realized the problem was the soil gnats. I really should have treated my plants with Neem Cake much sooner. I just started treatment for all my other outdoor plants and hope there's at least another two weeks of above 40 degree weather to get them sanitized before bring them in. One piece of good advice I got here was, I didn't also think about cleaning the outside and bottom of pots. You can Youtube Neem Cake for soil gnats for specific instructions. The Neem Cake is also good as a systemic potion for the plant. It is organic and will help the plant ward off spider mites, aphids and mealy bugs. You can also use the tea intermittently with a foliage spray to keep your plant healthy. One last bit of information is the Neem Cake will get a little moldy white when sprinkled on top of the soil, don't worry it will not harm your plants. Eventually it will break down into the soil, but if it annoys you just break it up into the soil or remove it. You can avoid the mold, but using a small amount of the Neem Cake...don't layer it too heavy on top of the soil. The only thing I would do differently is treat my lemon trees BEFORE bringing them inside cause the Neem Cake smell is unpleasant. It dissipates over time, but the residual odor seems to really burn my eyes. Other than the soil gnat problem, two of my plants (2 - 3 years old) are doing beautifully. One has about 12 lemons growing and the other one has about 5 of differing sizes
myermike_1micha thanked Aya Johnson
Atheen - 7a - in Maryland, USA
7 years ago
Thank you, Steve. I was afraid 42 was already too cold to leave them out.

Aya, I don't have pests right now and I'm already treating preemptively when Neem oil before bringing my trees inside, but thank you for that great info on Neem cake.

Off to bed. Good night, y'all, and God bless.

.

Atheen
myermike_1micha
Original Author
7 years ago
So, is anyone still treating their trees before they come in for good? How is it coming along? Anyone all done with bringing their trees outside?

I am going to do another "All Seasons Dormant Oil Spray' treatment before they come in. They are all still outside and I want to make sure nothing new has copped up since all the beneficial bugs have hibernated for the winter..
poncirusguy6b452xx
7 years ago
I will be spraying tonight then I have to go out of town on business. I will continue spraying ever 3 days until they come in. This is the season for mites and other pests.

15 day forcast

Cincinnati Steve
Laura LaRosa (7b)
7 years ago
I need to spray again, but my trees should be out a while yet. I found two more of those nasty white fuzzy scale insects - one in my ST, and the other on the tangelo. I'm going to spray again soon.
User
7 years ago
I just sprayed with neem + Safer's soap a few days ago when I planned on bringing them in for the winter. Decided to keep them out for a while longer.
Atheen - 7a - in Maryland, USA
7 years ago
I sprayed last Thursday with 1.5 tsp Neem + couple drops of Palmolive soap in a quart and a half of water for the second time, at weekly intervals. I also did a soil drench with the same mixture plus FP, for the second week in a row as well. I typically shower the leaves really well the day before I do the Neem spray to help with buildup.

On Thursday, after I spray them and drench the soil for the third and last weekly installment, I will move them to a full shade party of the deck for their last week outside.

...well. Unless the weather stays as warm and beautiful as it was today, in which case they'll get another week out, and another Neem spraying and soil drench, lol.

I'll have to remember to wash the pots, too, before I bring em in.

The small one is literally exploding with growth. It kills me to have to move it to the shade on Thursday. There are new leaves and buds forming on every single branch. I was watching it this morning and telling the tree, "oh, sure, NOW you give me flowers, you idiot, couldn't do that in the summer while it could have grown lemons, no, you wait for your last week outside, and your last week of FP and you do it!" LOL. I'll post pics tomorrow. It's unbelievable.

.

God bless,

.

Atheen
myermike_1micha thanked Atheen - 7a - in Maryland, USA
Esmeralda Reitz
7 years ago
I brought mine in so far I've lost done leaves hope they don't all drop
myermike_1micha
Original Author
7 years ago
Athena, lolol..I needed a good laugh..That's exactly what mines do too. They don;t do much for me until they are about to come in,..% months of sunshine will make them do what I want, just in time to bring them in. lol. I hear ya! Good job spraying and treating..

Esmeralda..If you loose leaves unless it's do to root rot, don't worry about it. Just like Ficus trees, just moving them from one spot to another, from cold to heat can cause drop...
Esmeralda Reitz
7 years ago
Thank you, I wouldn't know if its root for but I don't water as much now that it's inside, maybe lack of sun
Esmeralda Reitz
7 years ago
Help please, I washed and used all I was suppose to neem FE and more on my trees. But moved them to a different window and lots of what look to be fruit flies what should I do
User
7 years ago
They are probably fungus gnats. If you are out of neem, try this: http://homeguides.sfgate.com/kill-fungus-gnats-houseplants-dish-soap-87288.html
myermike_1micha
Original Author
7 years ago
http://freeplants.com/fungus-gnats.htm
Esmeralda Reitz
7 years ago
Thank you for the advice I'll try that tomorrow, annoying little things hope it works
Atheen - 7a - in Maryland, USA
7 years ago
Good morning, y'all!

Just finished Neeming my trees around 9 this morning. Unless they stay out for more than another week, that'll be the last time they get sprayed before coming in. If they get another week out, I plan on Neeming once a week until they come in, but honestly that's unlikely. As much as I'd like to keep them out as long a possible, I also don't want the temperature gap between the outside and the 70-72 degrees my house is at during the day (68 at night) to be too big.

They get moved to the full shade part of the deck tomorrow, to get them used to less light for a week before they move to the other side of the window.

I will, however, give the soil one last drench in a week before I bring them in.

There was some sun as I sprayed, but honestly in October with temps in the 60's, I'm pretty sure I should be fine.

As promised, here are the latest pics. Mike, see what I mean about the friggin new shoots and buds? Btw, how's your mom?

God bless, y'all,

.

Atheen
myermike_1micha thanked Atheen - 7a - in Maryland, USA
Esmeralda Reitz
7 years ago
Hey so I'm dealing with gnats looks like fruit flies. I've removed about an inch of the soil yesterday and used peroxide and water to suffocate them and also a bit of vinegar water and dish soap. This morning I seen one or 2 still around. Does that mean there still in the soil? Thanks
myermike_1micha thanked Esmeralda Reitz
User
7 years ago
There might be a few eggs left in the soil so you should repeat the vinegar and soap again in a week. Don't worry, you will get rid of them.
myermike_1micha thanked User
Esmeralda Reitz
7 years ago
Thank you I'm losing lots of leafs which is bad enough
myermike_1micha
Original Author
7 years ago
They can cause leaf loss..I would do another Hydrogen Peroxide treatment..That will zap them for good..Why are you getting those? Is your mix a little too fine? Next spring I would consider a re pot for sure)

For all...

make sure not to over do it with the Neem OIl..Too much oil can build up on the leaves and suffocate the stigma..I would wash the leaves off with a good rinse of warm water or soapy warm water the next day...Between treatments..It will also wash off any dead bugs..

Atheen..Hows your hubby these days? Is he much stronger? Is he eating good still? How about those fruit and vegi smoothies?

My mom is doing better..Thank you for asking! I know how you feel about the new growth..What a depressing thing to not be able to watch them grow into mature leaves outside before it gets cold..Arg! That is why many are getting greenhouses now...You should see the ones I have in the greenhouse..New growth like crazy..All those I have had to stick inside are standing still. The new growth is in suspended animation..lol. I could vomit...I hate that.
Esmeralda Reitz
7 years ago
Mike my mix is 5-1-1 I'm not sure why, I should wait a week before reapplying or sooner?
myermike_1micha thanked Esmeralda Reitz
Esmeralda Reitz
7 years ago
I have a small tree that had mandarins that both dropped now has no leafs, what caused that ? any ideas I'm afraid the others will lose there leafs as well. Thanks
Vladimir (Zone 5b Massachusetts)
7 years ago
Esmeralda, start a new thread with your problem so that you will be more likely to get people to respond.
Esmeralda Reitz
7 years ago
Thank you Vladimir
myermike_1micha
Original Author
7 years ago
Esmeralda, it could be anything...It could be months in the working or as early as recent...If you give us a LOT of detail about your cultural habits, we find find an answer)
Atheen - 7a - in Maryland, USA
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
Hi, y'all!

Mike, glad to know your mom is getting better. Dave is doing good, I think. We've now stabilized his weight and we actually now have to watch for him not to gain it back, wick is a good sign. He's started working out and lifting again, although still taking it easy.

Me, I'm exhausted all the time, these days. I don't know if it's the it's seasons changing or what, but I'm dragging myself all day long, LOL.

I might have to bring my trees in a couple of days early. I was shooting for Thursday or this week end, but my area has just been issued a freeze warning for tonight. Regardless of the forecast that says mid 40's, the risk of a dip into the 20's or lower 30's is a possibility, overnight. The possibility is slim, but that would zap my Meyers for sure, so I can't really risk it. They'll be coming in tonight.

Sadly, I just watered and fertilized this morning before I saw the forecast, so I won't be able to give the soil one last good Neem drench before bringing the trees inside tonight. I neemed the whole trees for the third consecutive week last Thursday, and I also drenched the soil then, so I really should be fine. I guess I can always add some Neem to my first indoor watering, 10 days or so after i bring the trees inside.

I also gave both trees a good insecticidal spray this morning (garden safe), just in case something crept in since I neemed last Thursday. I hesitated to Neem them again, but decided against it, they've been getting it weekly for 3 weeks in a row and they just got doused in garden safe insecticidal soap, hope that's enough.

I'll be washing the pots later this afternoon before bringing them in. I'll do my best for the underside of the pot, but I don't promise anything. Those suckers are heavy. I'll settle for tilting the pot and spraying some insecticidal soap on the underside.

other than that, the trees look healthy, despite a few leaves here and there that show some kind of a deficiency. I snapped a few pics, hold on.

See what I mean? A few leaves are trying to tell me something, but I dont know what. What do you tHink?

Besides those few leaves, they look happy. They are ready to go in.

They are just moving across the window threshold. They have been against the deck wall all week in constant shade, and another week in partial shade before that, so they've gotten used to less light already.

To recap:

1. Do you think I should Neem the trees again for a 4th time before they come in?

2. What's with the few discolored leaves?

3. Can I add some Neem to my next watering, which will also be my first indoor watering of the season?

.

God bless, y'all, and thanks for listening!

.

Atheen

PS: just washed the outside of the pots really well with soap and water, including the underside of the pots. Oh, and Mike, I remembered to check if there was still a wick dangling out from under the pot, and the answer is yes, there is one, albeit very short. Also, my back just died. Gonna need to revive it in order to bring the trees in tonight... Thus killing it again, LOL
Vladimir (Zone 5b Massachusetts)
7 years ago
1. I might be wrong, but no. I'd worry about neem build up clogging stomata.

2. I got that also. I think it's from the cold weather not allowing the roots to function.

3. Probably won't hurt.
myermike_1micha
Original Author
7 years ago
Athheen, good to see your hubby back to working out again! Good for him. He will be built solid like me before he knows it.lol Take it easy and rest up..You are going to need it for when it get warm again and you want to stick them all back outside again..Ha

Remember not to over do it with the Neem..Look at the instructions..I think it says how many times you can use it frequently...I would only do the three and that's it for a while. You don't want to overlap the oils on the leaves to the point that the stomata..I always use a warm soapy water and rinse after a couple of days to remove the excess oil..

I really think your trees will be just fine..It is true that no matter how much we do, the more trees we get the more of a risk we take with pests no matter what we do. All we can do is keep ahead of them since there is no 100% guarantee we will not have a pest here or there...The fact that you are very conscious of them is a huge head start over the common houseplant grower...Did you know that many that visit here do not even know what spider mites are unless they have lost their trees? Your diligent as we all should be..Good for you)

By the way, what is happening to your leaves is VERY COMMON when exposing trees to temps below 55 not matter what anyone would like you to believe..I swear some come here and deny they have issues with the cold just to be a puss...