Debt: Paying Off vs Loan
10 years ago
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Comments (24)
- 10 years ago
- 10 years ago
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Paying off the house vs BMW is the new status symbol
Comments (24)--It is the mortgage scenarios with no future prospect, goal or even intent of ownership that I have trouble getting my head around. Like credit card debt becoming so "normal". Basically, one can have pretty much anything without really ever owning it.-- I definitely see your point. I have a friend who thinks Donald Trump is the bomb. I once pointed out that he's had a bankruptcy or two... her response was something along the lines of that being not such a bad thing in a business situation, actually sort of a kind of business plan. Mind you, this is someone who's very responsible with her own finances and wouldn't dream of cheating someone she owes money to. Somehow she didn't make the connection that when businesses go bankrupt, there are people who are not getting paid. Mr Trump uses other people's money to finance his deals, then doesn't pay them back. ugh. Ok, maybe he didn't plan it, but how can he be a good business man if his investors lose money (and why do people keep investing with him)? On the other hand, I think there's a big difference between that kind of thing and on the personal scale credit card or other unsecured debt, vs. mortgage or other secured debt. I did have a couple thousand in credit card debt at one point in my life (ironically because I was trying to avoid debt; I underestimated what I would need to survive my last year in college and didn't take out enough on my student loan. ha.) but at this point in my life, it would take a very dire emergency to take that on again. I suppose it was a fairly dire emergency at the time (I needed to eat), but if it hadn't been temporary, I would have found other solutions (cheaper living situation, fewer classes to pay for, etc). Meanwhile, I do have a mortgage and I do pay the minimum while investing about $1000/month in mutual funds. I have about half my outstanding principle saved (not counting retirement accounts). Will I pay it off when I have the full amount? I actually don't know. Partly that will depend on mortgage rates at the time (right now I have an ARM that makes its first adjustment in a couple years). Partly, it will depend on what I'm doing in my life. It would be wonderful to have a paid-off house, on the other hand, it would also be wonderful to have enough money in savings that I could quit my job, go to grad school, travel for a year, etc, if I got the urge. However, regardless of whether or not I keep the mortgage, having debt against an asset, you at least still have a positive (or neutral at worst) net worth. Using a credit card to buy consumables, you end up with just the debt. I don't know. Maybe the average person doesn't make the distinction and the idea that debt (including mortgage) is normal feeds the inclination to run up credit cards, etc....See MoreShould I liquidate assets to pay off my Credit Card debt.
Comments (5)Here goes with my financial advice. I believe it's simpler than it sounds and just requires you to get your interest rates from all of your accounts in order to make your choices. First suggestion: do as celticmoon suggests and fix that $515K first mortgage immediately! As I'm sure you're aware, the fixed variable rates of now are worse than a year or two ago, but much better than the 12-19% that they were in the past. In my opinion, fix it now and pay for any closing costs out of your savings, which is presumably earning the worst interest rate. Speaking of....what savings rate is your $15K earning? If it's less than 9% (almost a sure bet), and you have liquidatable cash in assets (which you say you do) to cover an emergency fund, then using that cash to invest in your house is giving you a 9% rate of return in your house investment, which is far better than the 3-4% of a typical savings account. If you choose not to do that, then I present my second suggestion (which I still think you should consider, w/ or w/o the $15K in the equation) DH and I just went through a similar process, although with one house, and we paid off a motorcycle and a timeshare (each at ~9%), rather than CC debt. This plan mirrors our own, with different dollar amounts: Roll both HELOCs into one and LOCK your rate up now. In my opinion, it's only going to go up. You should be able to get a much better rate with a higher consolidation balance (we got 7.5% by consolidating our two loans along with our original HELOC). 65K + 30K = 95K = 11.9% of the first house or 19% of the second house. If you keep your loan:value ratio below 20%, you'll get a better deal on rates. You may even ben required to keep it below 20%; I'm not sure. Keep thinking about that. The next option is to add the 25K of CC debt into the HELOC figure, for a total of 65K + 30K + 25K = 120K = 15% of the first house. Close that loan and pay off the CC debt immediately. You're now transferring the 8.9% of wasted CC interest into an investment into your house, in addition to the tax writeoff. The last think to consider is to stick with the 95K HELOC option and pay off the CC bill with your assets. Are any of your stock or mutual funds giving you returns better than 9%? If so, then keep them where they are and do the 120K HELOC option. If they're earning less than 9%, then I refer you back to the concept of my second paragraph. If you take your mutual fund money that is earning less than 9% and pay down your worst mortgage/HELOC/CC rate with that, you're making a huge investment in your house. Now, if you want to sit on your stocks, that's understandable. I hope that my advice not confusing, and that it's helpful to you. Lindsay...See MoreInheritance...pay off debt or invest for retirement
Comments (15)Mush, If I were to inherit $100,000. I'd invest almost all of it - maybe have a little fun with some of it, in a way that would be a good memorial to the one from whom I inherited. As I have no debt, currently. I won't go into debt for consumer stuff, daily issues of living: I wait till I can pay cash for stuff that I use up now. I prefer also to pay cash for a car, and get older cars, usually at $3,000. - 4,000. or less. The last one, costing $2,700., operated for me for over 8 years - cost me substantial amounts for repairs toward the end, more in total than I'd paid to buy it. But I drove it for over 110,000 miles. When I ask an auto salesperson whether s/he can give me 100,000 miles for about $6,000., they just look at me, sniff, and say, "No way!". Ian in B.C. Given your offer from your employers, one could scarcely turn it down. And for folks who have a stay-at-home spouse, and who have a pension plan themselves, a spousal RRSP makes good sense, in order to develop a double income stream after retirement. I just said that I don't like them for myself. An RRSP, or a similar type of investment as preparation for retirement, should be in core investments, solid stuff that'll do well over the years, despite some ups and downs along the road. I have some solid stocks that I bought somewhere around 30 years ago ... with money on which I'd already paid the tax. They've grown well in value, over the long term - and I didn't get all bent out of shape when their value went down by about 20% or so over a short term, for they'd done well before, and I expected them to do well later: usually better than average for a while after there's been a substantial drop. On such stocks as some of our major banks, pipeline companies, oil and gas and mining shares (the biggie, long-term ones), Geo. Weston, Power Corp. or subsidiaries, e.g. Investors' Group, GreatWest Life, or other major companies, I'm not worried that they may go out of business. Tobacco and booze, if having them doesn't bother you for moral reasons. I suggest that you check David Stanley's articles in "Canadian MoneySaver" on the Canadian equivalent of picking the "Dogs of the Dow", which he has written about for the past ten years, and back-tested for a number of years before that, usually reporting in the July/August issue what he (supposedly) bought at the end of May, as that was the time at which the TSE 35 was set up, several years ago. Then it was the largest 60 on the TSE, now the largest 40. He ranks those 40 stocks of the largest Canadian companies in order of the rate of dividend that they pay, from the highest down. Then he picks the 10 that pay the highest rate of dividend and buys an equal dollar amount of each. Despite some loss years, he's made a nice rate of return in about 7 or 8 of those 10 years, usually 10% or more total, comprised of dividends of about 3% and current capital gain ... or better. One year he was up 40%. There's a sub-set where one buys the 5 paying the highest dividend rate, and another that omits the one paying the highest dividend (as a company possibly in trouble, and possibly about to cut the dividend rate), and takes a double load of the one paying the second highest rate of dividend. In a number of years, this choice has turned out the best performance. I don't mind borrowing some to invest in such companies: if I use stocks worth $10,000. as collateral, the bank will lend me no more than $5,000. If I borrow the full $5,000. and the value of the collateral drops, say 20%, to $8,000., I get a call from the bank telling me that they want $2,000. more collateral ... or $1,000. cash to reduce the loan amount ... *today* (or at the latest, tomorrow). When I worked as a financial advisor, I told my clients that I wanted them to be in a position so that they *never* got such a margin call. I don't want any such myself (have never had one - but I've seldom used the borrowing strategy), so I borrow quite a bit less than the full amount that the bank is willing to lend. And I use stock of several companies, so that if one takes a heavy hit, my total isn't reduced too much. If I borrow, say $4,000. and give the stocks that I buy to the bank as additional collateral, they have somewhat less than $14,000. collateral, which means that they're willing to lend up to about $7,000. If the stocks take a hit of 30%, and it's doubtful if those heavy dividend payers would, even if the market as a whole went down 30%, that's a drop so that my total collateral would be under $10,000. But the bank would be willing to lend me something under $5,000. in those circumstances ... and I only owe them $4,000. You may have heard that the Canadian market has been going down for the last few months? About 3/4 of the stocks that Stanley picked in May this year are higher now than they were then. I can give you current particulars if you wish - which you can calculate for yourself if you check July/August 2006 "Canadian MoneySaver" and check current prices. Can give the record over the past 10 years, if you want them. When I receive dividends on Canadian stocks, I get a tax credit that means that I pay tax of peanuts on them, and use some of the income from the stocks that I own as well as those that I bought with the borrowed money to pay the interest on the loan - which currently, on my fully secured line of credit, would cost me 6%. If I can borrow at 6% that's fully deductible and buy stocks that earn about 3% now, taxed at a low rate, and use some of the dividends from stocks that I owned previously to pay the interest, I end up with little tax liability. Also, as the interest payment is deductible, I end up paying almost no income tax on that current income. Further, I make at least 2% or so annually on inflation (and some of us figure that the actual rate is higher than the 2% or so that the gov't. publicizes). When I pay interest only on the loan as I go along, the $10,000. that I might have borrowed 15 years ago would have bought a nice car - not now. But all that I'm required to pay the bank is the amount that I borrowed - $10,000. But it'll buy a lot less now than it would have, then. I've had a long-term time horizon, over the years - and continue to do so, even though I'm crowding 80. Thankful to be in good physical health - don't think that I've taken a pill in 30 years at least. Same for the mental component ... I hope. Have a great week, what's left of it. ole joyful...See MorePaying debts from smallest to largest
Comments (15)"The assumption (and I think it is valid) is that into your life a little more rain may fall. If you have 4 accounts on which you pay $100 a month each and you pay off the smallest one, you will only be under a $300 monthly obligation. You can use the newly freed $100 to pay down the next smallest account or, if you have to, you can use it toward your next emergency. This is the safer approach for most people. It depends on your circumstance of course and just how high the highest interest rate is." No, it's not valid. This only even applies if all your debt is fixed-payment (traditional mortgage or car payment, for example). Credit cards, HELOCs, store accounts, etc required minimum payment are all based on your outstanding principal, and the higher your interest is, the more you have to pay every month just to keep your principal from increasing. You don't suddenly "free up" $100/month at the end, you continuously "free up" $5 this month, $5 more next month, etc, and by paying down your higher rate loan, you're freeing up maybe $6 this month, $6 more next month, etc, rather than $5 so in a year you'll have freed up $72/month rather than $60/month. You will reduce your required minimum monthly debt payment (as well as your total debt) quicker by paying down the higher-interest debt. There may be (certainly is) a psychological benefit to getting rid of a debt; if someone is needing a motivational boost and the difference in interest rates is minimal, it may be worth it to pay off a small account, but from a strictly $ approach, I don't buy it....See More- 10 years ago
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