Who should do the Manual J Calc
susha
7 years ago
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fsq4cw
7 years agorandy427
7 years agoRelated Discussions
GT Heating--Do I need to insist on a schedule J Calc.?
Comments (10)It wasn't too hard to make a choice once we found the 2 experts weren't responding to our RFPs, though talking to them they said w/o seeing the house they'd say prob. 4 ton would be enough. Our builder had a 3 ton for same size house and was supplementing with woodstove, complaining about system so we didn't even ask people he used to bid. But rejected the detailed estimate that said 3 ton right away. Then the person who wanted to put a 3 ton for downstairs (app. 1500 sf) and 2 ton upstairs (1200 sf) we thought would be oversized. So we went with the neat, well-laid out ductwork guy who bid on 4 ton unit, talked to some of his GT references (though I prefer to ask around and find out from building dept, GC's who best subs are now that I've been burnt from tile layer who provided me with glowing references but clearly didn't know how to prepare subfloor). I could have gone back to other contractors and asked them to bid 4 ton unit but I felt that if they couldn't get it right the 1st time, who was I to tell them - any problems with the system and they'd say it was what I picked. The 4-ton guy did say in his bid "The heating and cooling loads will need to be designed on Manuel (sic) J software and will be designed to meet the energy star guidelines. This will require the home to pass an energy star blower door test for maximum energy savings." I don't know if they ever did the blower test (guess I should call them) since it was new construction and I wasn't around the whole time but I can tell you that we don't even turn on the breaker for the Aux heat until late Nov (2007 & 2008). We have only 18 months experience living with this system but so far we think it's good. Just looking for a way to reduce our energy usage during the long NE winter. Maybe next year we should try keeping the heat at 65 instead of 68, but we get so used to being warm in Oct/Nov we hate to turn it down for Dec-Feb!...See MoreManual J-Can't get it done???
Comments (55)hmm ive lost my life reading this much info ,especially from non professional giving each other a lot of information gained from the internet.. However IF you had a 5ton system that worked ok but you have changed the overall infiltration and heat loss and gain with all the sealing up of gaps,better E-windows and doors and more insulation then you have changed the dynamics of the system,man J or no manual J, it is obvious. If i was installing this system id be putting in a 4ton two stage/two speed outdoor 14/16 seer 410a condensing unit,a two stage 80% VS furnace if you are in the southwest/west/south or if you are in the north or north east then a 90% or higher two stage variable speed 5 ton drive furnace with a 5 ton evaporator coil with TXV valve.This way your ducts and airflow can be adjusted with the 5ton drive to meet a 4ton or higher air flow and the VS motor will help with any mistakes made in the design as long as they are minor.The 5ton coil will help remove moisture faster with the larger surface area and be in tune with the furnace. I definitly would go with a media type filter and make sure all the ducts get properly sealed on both ends as well as entire system at all attachment points. I would also recommend ,IF this isnt already done,zoning the single system to at the very least a two zone system seperating the upstairs from the downstiars and using two thermostats in key areas to better fine tune your comfort. the humidistats can be set for proper humidity control and cooling so again this will help the system run as long or short as neccessary to get to your comfort level. also in closing IF you are going from 22 to 410a i would definitly change the lineset as if the flush isnt done correctly or any trace remains in the lines at all ,even a minute trace it will slowly kill the inside of your compressor and eventually with a few years ruin the new system.Its not worth the risk IMO,so if you are spending this kind of money already what an extra 500-1k to protect your investment? I am a licensed contractor in the USA but will remain anonymous for liability reasons. good luck...See MoreManual-J, Manual-D $4000?
Comments (22)I can imagine that being in any jobber biz you're eventually going to get shopped after quoting a job. In my business, we take that risk by submitting our best ideas on multimillion dollar public works projects. They may like your idea but not your price, and you spend tens, maybe hundreds of thousands in the pursuit over multiple years. Think that's just a lack of ethics that pops up across the business community. Energyrater- I've been participating in a discussion on FH's Breaktime forum. Someone putting in vinyl windows where the mfr instructions said not to foam them in. I was shocked by the number of folks who agreed that you should follow the directions and use fiberglass. I can't imagine putting windows in and not using the window/door poly foam to seal them in. dallasbill- the only thing that you'd need to wing it on is the ACH. If the house remodel is in progress, you won't really know how leaky it's going to end up. We did a blower door test before construction and then based the sizing on an estimate of how leaky it'd be after doing lots of improvements. Still have work on weatherstripping old windows/doors to do. I'd intended to get it tested again afterward, but we'll see if that actually happens. yoyoma- ideally you want to test the new system with a "duct blaster" test to see how well sealed up the ductwork is. Not as big a deal if it's all w/in the conditioned space, but most of the time it isn't. A well-installed new system will leak .05 cfm/sq ft of conditioned space. Here is a link that might be useful: Southface fact sheet on blower door & duct blaster testing...See MoreTigerDunes & Weedmeister take a look at this? Manual J
Comments (2)Since you would need to do measurements, and record other observations, why not save $25 bucks and do it yourself. Follow Tiger's link. Once the information has been entered, you can do 'what if' scenarios (changing parameters) to see how a proposed system would perform or the effects of upgrading windows/insulation, etc. V...See MoreVith
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agosusha
7 years agofsq4cw
7 years agoUser
7 years agoElmer J Fudd
7 years agosusha
7 years agoAustin Air Companie
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7 years agoElmer J Fudd
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7 years agoElmer J Fudd
7 years agomike_home
7 years agoVith
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoElmer J Fudd
7 years agosusha
7 years agomike_home
7 years agosusha
7 years agofsq4cw
7 years agomike_home
7 years agoElmer J Fudd
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agosusha
7 years agoElmer J Fudd
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agosusha
7 years agoElmer J Fudd
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agomike_home
7 years agoVith
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agosusha
7 years agoVith
7 years agomike_home
7 years agoAustin Air Companie
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agofsq4cw
7 years agoVith
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoRodney Taylor
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sushaOriginal Author