Holly I don't know what I said that made you think my primary concern is budget. It is not. Our budget is more than enough for an ICF home with or without basement. However I don't know if building a basement is worth the extra expense or adds any value to our use of the home. We've toured several icf houses that are glorified mcmansion in the area 4000 sq ft monstrosities on basements. I've seen icf basements with traditional construction above and I didn't like them. I love the deep window sills, quietness, energy efficiency, safety ( and the list goes on and on) of an icf home. Traditional stick built is not something we would explore. We have discussed SIPs but ultimately i think we feel most comfortable with the experienced ICF builder. He has over 25 years experience with ICF. He now only builds ICF homes. We toured many of his homes all were well within our budget. But we haven't made the final decision yet. I mentioned the cost because it is a factor. ONE factor not the only or most important factor. I'm not sure if paying x dollars for a glorified storage unit makes any sense. That x would likely come at the cost of tree transplants, koi pond etc. All things we could do in the year or 2nd year after the build, but I would prefer doing now. I also was questioning how the choices impacted the livability and durability of the home. My point in this thread was to understand why people choose one over the other. I've found the answers pretty helpful. I'm not quite understanding the implication building on slab indicates disinterest in quality or interest only in cheapest building process. There is some debate that basements are not a "green" choice. Slab on grade is often used in passive solar homes for the thermal mass of the slab. We want high end finishes in a Eco friendly home. Here is where I'm throwing away money and will never have good resale. Then again we threw that out the window the moment we decided to build a more contemporary bi generational home :) Not every housing choice is about "smart money". Some decisions are a balance between wants, needs, livability and ultimately budget. Per others suggestions we had architect make some changes. It looks like our portion of the house would now be 1920 sq ft on slab with the new utility room and a few other changes to accommodate that room. The inlaw apt stayed at 788 sq ft. Right sized for us. But small by many people's standards. If the home is on basement it would be 1715 as we took out the utility room and didn't need to rework any rooms. Sorry if my original post gave the wrong impression that I was looking for the cheapest option.

So let's talk the about the difference between an engineered hardwood and a vinyl plank. And there are more than just the difference between the two flooring options. There are many differences within each type of flooring. For example: engineered hardwood flooring can come in different thickness overall and vinyl planks can come in different plank styles (glue down, WPC and SPC). Let's break this down for you guys a little further. Engineered hardwood is an incredible option for an authentic with longevity in mind. Typically is worth less than it's hardwood counterpart (hardwood) but in some instances, depending on the wood species, a high end engineered hardwood veneer could be worth more than a low grade hardwood such as your North American (domestic) species. Engineered hardwood is more often on the 7/16" side of thickness and that is your more price friendly thickness. You can special order a thicker 3/4" board, but that will come at a heftier price because it's added layers. The added layers create a more stable plank that expands and contracts at a lower rate than it's 7/16" counterpart. Engineered hardwoods always should and for the most part come prefinished with an aluminum oxide coat. This very coat is your barrier against everyday beatings from walking traffic and dropped items. This coat is very tough but no floor or finish is indestructible. You will have dents and scratches pop up over the years. Depending on the company, you can buy "refinish kits". Although, technically you cannot refinish aluminum oxide, the kits just help you hide the scratches until you decide to do a professional refinish to your floor. Lastly, let's talk about refinishing your hardwood floor. Please have a professional do it! And it is very expensive to do this job. Depending on your floor size it can cost well over $3,000 USD. At this rate, you are in the market for a high level LVP. Which brings me into the luxury vinyl plank spectrum. As you all are aware, LVP's are dominating the flooring market and they should be. They do a very, VERY good job at imitating a hardwood or stone surface and multiply the longevity all the while. Vinyl has come a long way in the last couple of decades let alone the last few years as far as planks are concerned. There are plenty of options and so, so many different brands all wanting you business. Luxury vinyl planks can be divided into two different categories in the market right now: glue down or floating. The first generation of vinyl planks are your glue downs. They are still very popular and serve as one of the friendliest DIY repair floors. You simply heat the old damaged plank, peel it and put a new one down. The floating aspect of planks gets a little more complicated as you can have a WPC (wood polymer composite), SPC (stone polymer composite) or a loose lay style. And you can look those up to see the complete difference in each to see what's your most needed. I'll lightly go over each to explain what they are. While all three styles are virtually waterproof, you really can't go wrong with any and will have a good product in each one. WPC's are a click based plank which does not require an underlayment, hence being labeled a "floating" floor. The foaming agent in the core of the plank helps with sound absorption and makes the plank a little more friendly to stand on. It's a thicker overall plank and you should think about how the trims will be affected. SPC's are a click based plank which also does not require an underlayment which helps reduce the installation cost. The core is limestone based and makes it very rigid and tough. It's extremely dent resistant but for the most part is lower in wear layer for some reason. You can however find plenty of SPC's with a higher wear layer, nearing 28-30 mil, but it will cost you more because you will have a high dent and scratch resistance. And finally you have your loose lay planks which are the ultimate form (as of now) in easy maintenance and installation. They do not require an underlayment, do not use a click system and don't need any adhesive (although some installers recommend gluing the perimeter). They have a friction backing which let you lay the plank adhesive free without any movement on its end. The plank itself is waterproof and pretty dent resistant. While engineered hardwood does cost more and is less maintenance friendly, it does add value to your home with the hardwood veneer. The ability to refinish gives you a long floor life but the cost of a refinish is a setback in itself. Luxury vinyl planks are a low cost and long lasting floor option but adds little to no value to your home. The endless options of styles and colors gives you endless customization to your home at a far less price. Either option can last a while but at this time vinyl planks are a better option for any household with multiple members, both human and furry alike. I hope this little bit of information helps in the short and long run. Just a flooring dude.

When code says a vent must be 3’ from the corner, does that mean the center of the vent or justice the edge of the vent? I am still looking into vapor barriers and full encapsulation. I am concerned about energy efficiency and also about moisture getting into the insulation under the floor. And I would like to be able to reduce or eliminate the vents. So I checked our plans and it does say 46 vents spaced 5’ apart on center. The contractor says they likely couldn’t fit them all in with this spacing because of floor joists and curbless showers. Since their spacing doesn’t match the plans (and he did not discuss this with us before deviating from plans) should I expect him to close up the holes and recut them for no charge? also, how does one actually close up the holes? Is there a way to cut a small piece of plywood and attach? Or does he just have to take all sheathing down and start over?

skil367 - my parents live in Spring - but on a traditional slab. they are pretty far from any creeks or bayous. I grew up not far from there and we had our fair share of wayward turtles we returned to the creeks after storms! 90% of our little town flooded. So far there are maybe a dozen tear downs and rebuilds (also some others being raised). Of the rebuilds started, 6 are on piers! We don't want to take any chances! My neighbor went up 6 feet, we are going up 4.5. We only got 1.5' of water in the house. Rainfall total for our area during Harvey was 53". If our new house ever floods, I am buying a house-boat.