There is a significant difference between repotting and potting up. One eliminates the limitations imposed by root congestion, the other ensures the perpetuation of those limitations until such time as they are eliminated by physically correcting the congestion. Air layering the top of the plant is the safest way to propagate your plant because the method stops the polar flow (from top to roots) of a growth regulator (auxin) that inhibits lateral growth (back-budding or new shoots); so, at the same time you're producing a new plant from the top (layering), you're stimulating new shoots from below the point of the air layer. It's not a difficult process. A second method, which also carries very little risk, would be to cut the top of the plant back, leaving only a few healthy leaves. This also inhibits the polar flow of auxin and forces back-budding lower on the plant. In successive years, you can 'chase' foliage all the way back to shoots growing very low on the plant. You use the term 'leggy'. Leggy happens when the plant isn't getting enough light and usually accompanies a weak stem that is reluctant to support itself. Your plant's natural growth habit is to regularly shed older leaves and occasionally produce another branch here and there. It will produce far more branches w/o your help if you can get it outdoors where there is lots of air movement and good light - as found in open shade. Then, you can prune the top back to one of those lower branches with virtually no risk to the plant. Al

Amos, your D. marginata should do fine. It's really not in bad condition, and for 5.00, you got a great deal! First, check for insects..Especially Spider Mites and Mealy. Look for fine webbing or white cottony masses. Trim brown tips like Bunnygurl suggested, but leave a little, about 1/8" of brown on each leaf. D marginata soil needs to dry between waterings. The pot looks large, so depending on its soil, it may take time to dry.. Test soil. The pot MUST have drainage. After it's all potted in, trimmed, if possible, place in the shower. Let water run over leaves. You'll have one happy plant. After it's settled, give it a dose of house plant/foliage fertilizer. Good luck, Toni

I did see this post which is so old. I live in zone 9 in Houston. I have your particular plant outside in my garden in the ground. We had a horrible freeze last year & the year before 12 degrees last winter. This particular drac always comes back from the roots. Came back this year & the year before. I don't know about constant really low temps, but, knowing me, I would try, especially not liking houseplants. You could try this with a cutting. Also the areca palm was planted next to my house and withstood many freezing winters. Information out is that this palm needs to be in the house. I realize it was planted right next to the house. We finally had to dig it out since it continued to grow sideways creating more and more growth. Also cordylines/ti plants always come back just like the drac. Tropical growers need to know this experience. Happy growing. Carol

From a production guide: "At soil or air temperatures less than 65°F, very little growth will occur. Plants will be damaged at 35°F air temperature if exposed for short periods, 1-2 days, or if exposed to 55°F for 1 week. To simply protect the plants from cold damage, a minimum of 50°F should be held and plants should be sheltered from wind. Temperatures below 50°F, but above freezing, have been observed to cause chilling damage when plants are exposed to wind." Necrotic leaf tips are almost always associated with a high level of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil solution and/or over-watering/ poor root function, but fluoride and boron toxicities can also cause the problem. Using a soil that allows you to flush accumulating salts regularly goes a very long way toward the ability to grow this plant well. It loves good drainage, and every time you flush the soil, it's like hitting the fertilizer 'reset' button. This allows you to keep the level of dissolved solids as low as possible w/o experiencing deficiencies. Fertilizers with 3:1:2 RATIOS (different than NPK %s) also allow you to keep the level of dissolved solids as low as possible w/o deficiencies. If you have a friend with a reverse osmosis water filtering system, it would be very helpful if you used that water (it should have 0 ppm dissolved solids), or rain water, snow melt, water from dehumidifier, or distilled water, because these types of water are free from dissolved solids (or very near so). Al