The 5 ft almond colored steel raceway Plugmold made by Wiremold was only $33 or so at HD when I bought the replacement one last fall. It isn't child-resistant (but neither is the rest of my 2007 vintage house - I think that went into NEC effective 2008, but not sure it would apply to plugmolds if they are 55" off the floor under your upper wall cabinets, and over a 2ft counter so kids can't reach? Ask your electrician). I checked, mine is 15A but that is fine for small appliances - again, I would check your KitchenAid mixer and see how much it pulls, if you think you'll be running a large small appliance on the strip then I would have that one put on a separate circuit, even if 15A is OK. Don't want to pop the breaker running the coffeepot, toaster, and microwave all at the same time! I wouldn't plug a microwave into anything less than a 20A circuit, some of them can pull close to 15A all by themselves. If the end will be fairly well hidden and your electrician is neat, he can always cut down the raceway with a hacksaw, you might even be able to buy a 5ft section and make 2 out of it if you buy extra end caps. The wiring is easy, the hardest part of the Wiremold assembly is tapping the cover on - "striking sharply with hell of hand" - OUCH! was tough to do in tight space even with a wooden block, even for someone who had done it before (electrician). The wiring was a bit of a pain - not much room inside, when I installed the first one I took out the first receptacle to have room to work behind it, the electrician did the same with the replacement (I keep a child plug in to remind myself it's not functional). www.wiremold.com I don't know if they'll sell direct, but if you contact them they may be able to tell you where to buy (or order, if you want specific color, they have steel, aluminum, nonmetallic, almond, white, silver/stainless, black, etc.).

There is another post running on this topic right now. You might want to follow that one as well. It is a personal preference. I used a combination as I was chicken to go with just plug mold in case it was too hard to use. We put the plug mold(wire mold) on a 45 degree angle. The reason some don't like it is the dangling pigtails. Now you see it Now you don't - we did put an outlet in here as I needed a switch as well

I have them and love them. But I'm not going to convince you to get them. That's because there's no right or wrong. It all boils down to style. The ultimate reason why you'd want them should be determined by how you value your back splash. Some people want the back splash "pristine." Others don't care. For those who fall in the former, they love them because it keeps the BS "clean" looking. As far as cords hanging down, we only keep the coffee maker plugged in all the time. It's 15" tall, so not much of the cord is visible. Therefore, it's not an issue. When I was thinking all this through, my solution to the hanging cord was to change the color of the visible cord, if that became an issue. There are wire jackets or sheaths that come in various colors. Of course color matching by paint would probably be easiest and most accurate way to disguise cords. Fortunately for us, the hanging cords when plugged in don't bother us at all, because it's temporary. The other reason I love them is that I have more sockets available across my work surface. I rarely if ever have cords running across my counter. From mixer to blender to food processor to laptop to portable DVD player to battery charger to cordless phone, none of the cords get tangled or crossed when plugged in, because no two cords lead to the same point. There's always a socket closer to the point of use. I just remembered, the cordless handset is the other thing we plug in all the time. The wire is thin and gray, so it's not really noticeable. So I wouldn't sweat it. If you want it, you want it. If you don't, you don't. It's not going to be the end of the world either way.

Just wanted to give an update on this since so many of you had ideas on what the issue could be. Since the last post we just last week had the drywall removed, new drywall installed, a new cabinet and hooked everything back up. It was under the builders impression that the issue was still caused by the constant fan. However, shortly after the last post we discovered that our Septic Tank was never turned on. It began overflowing into the backyard, which is right behind the side of the home with the moisture issue. We were concerned about why the septic pump alarm never went off and that was because it was never connected by the electrician. We moved in last November so it was off for that whole time. We never noticed back up toilets or any odors or even the toilets making bubbly noises. We got that hooked up correctly and it started working. Last night when I was cleaning my sons room I noticed the edge of the wall on the hardwood flooring had water stains that were solid black. We have the Chesapeake Bay Gray Fog Engineered Hardwood flooring thru-out our whole first floor except for the wet areas where we have tile. The black spots we noticed are the same spots that had high moisture readings when we noticed the mold issue. The builder said the two issues werent related and that we would deal with the moisture after we took care of the mold issue. Since I have looked into all of these possible solutions, my only idea of what could have caused all this is the flashing on the home. It looked correct when they removed the brick on the side of the home but it has to have gaps in places that allowed water to leak in. the water spots are about every two feet away from each other in my youngest sons room and we found one spot in the dining area which is on the front of the home and then in the bedroom next to the bathroom that had the mold. Thank you for all of your help researching and figuring it all out.