The last time you posted it,wasn't it surrounded by lawn and across from the Australian tree fern? I have seen photos of them in Bakersfield with some serious deep scars,but they kept going. And the owners added the burden of not much water. I would just plant some undergrowth to cover the scars as the top growth of fresh green fronds is what you really want to see anyways.

archie123, my drainboard is 16 inches long. The standard for Stonemasters is 18 inches but I wanted to preserve some flat countertop next under the corbel shelves and they were quite flexible. It is about 16 inches front to back but I did not specify that, I think they decide that depending on the sink measurement. Many people get the runnels which are prettier but I wanted the smooth drainboard of ease of cleaning. I thought I would mostly use the Stages sink shelf for drying things but that shelf does not slope down at all and there is always a ittle water on it unless I wipe it off , so this integral drainboard in the soapstone is my most used drying area. Also, that sink including the raised shelf has become my most often used prep area so the integral drainboard adds even more functional real estate. I use this very low profile drying rack from Ikea which easily stores in the sink out of view if needed. BTW the templater mentioned that Kohler dxf files were very accurate and they trusted them. Mags438, the sink is I think my favorite thing! You are too funny. tea4all, the corbel shelves are already holding our most used bowls and mugs. The bottom edge of my cabinets are 19 inches from the countertop with an integral 1 inch hollow area underneath for undercounter lights etc. I designed the shelves to have the bottom 7 inches below that bottom edge of the cabinets (12 inches above the countertop) and 7 inches front to back. I drew the corbels poorly but asked Dutchwood to make the top part 13 inches front to back. tapering down to the 7 inches front to back for the shelves. The shelf thickness is 3/4 inch thick, the thinnest that the cabinetmaker was comfortable with. My upper cabinets are 15 inches deep so the 7 inch corbel shelf depth still allows the undercounter lights (mounted towards the front under the cabinets) to not be blocked by the shelves. I designed the shelves i because I wanted to have easy access to my most used items yet get things off the countertop. The height was determined by the location of my preexisting outlets and switches which also happened to be the right height that my coffeemaker could fit under (just) when not in use. I do pull the coffeemaker and rice cooker out from under the cabinets when in use because of the steam that they generate. I will eventually post a picture of the corbel shelves in use. Here is a link that might be useful: Ikea Boholmen dish drainer

Theresa, I'm really sorry you're having health issues. Hopefully, this month will be better for you and you can enjoy your winnings. Donna, I used to find it difficult to find a plain skirt at a decent price so usually ended up making my own. They're pretty easy and you can make them to fit! Lois, What are you using for the Mountain Majesties? I can't imagine you really have some scraps. lol Ok, folks, the neutal checkerboard is sewn together. My youngest will be 50 this year and since I make the girls big quilts for their 50th, she saw it and wants it for her guestroom at the cabin. I have to make it BIGGER! QUEEN SIZE! What I have now is 6 rows down and 9 rows across. I had planned on amping up the width with borders, but now I'll have to make more 9-patches. I figure at least 10 rows down and maybe 3 or 4 more across??? Does that sound right? That would make it 60" wide and about 78" long plus borders? If she uses a skirt on the bed, how big does it need to be?

I think you'll really enjoy making this quilt, Theresa. I tried to use a variety of greens, but I shied away from bright yellow-greens, which I didn't feel went with the other greens that well. Two blocks are created from each pair of green and neutral 8.5" squares, one uphill and one downhill. I did try to make sure each pair went well together. After they were all made, I separated them into two piles with one of each color combo in each pile. Then I made sure each half of the quilt had one of the combos so that the quilt was balanced. (I am pretty OCD.) When I had them all laid out on my design "floor," I made sure the seams in the odd rows were pressed one way and the even, the other, so the seams would nest. The blocks went together easily and required no trimming. Yay! I mixed batiks and regular cottons. I can't think of anything else at this time, but I'll jump in again if I think of something. Have fun! I can't wait to see your version. What colors are you using?