Pro advice needed: How to find a good contractor (long)
southofsa
7 years ago
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K Sissy
7 years agoRelated Discussions
How to find good HVAC Contractor
Comments (5)I think that I may take a slightly different approach. I have discovered that NJ has an Enegry Star program running. You pay a small fee and they have a BSI certified contractor come and inspect the home for air leaks, missing insulation, etc. They use IR camera's and do a blower door test. For one they will fix air leaks up to $1000 for free. The bigger thing is if your house is drafty, have an old furnace , AC etc and they can project that the improvements will result in a 25%+ reduction in heating costs, then there is a 50% rebate up to a total cost of $10,000. Thus $20,000 in improvements costs $10,000. On top of that you can do an interest free load for the $10,000 for up to 10 years. I have been researching contractors that are certified but aren't HVAC companies to try and elicit a more honest approach. Most also offr duct testing & sealing and are heating and cooling experts as well so they should be able to do manual J caculations based on the improvements and air seal they recommend. I think this is an important first step since this will affect the heating system I currently have....See MoreNeed advice for contractor issues
Comments (10)I think you're probably going to have to find someone else to finish up anyway. But for both of you I think you should give it one last shot to straighten it out. I agree, letting him know your rights is one thing, but actually suing is an absolutely last resort. You did actually get much of the work you paid for, and it would cost many thousands to pursue the rest. And time. If he has done anything criminal, that's different. I'd sit him down and have as brutally honest a conversation as possible with him. Give him a "golden hour" to tell you everything -- EVERYTHING he needs to tell you. And then you'll figure out what to do. Tell him you just want this solved. You just want the work done. No blame, no emotion, lecturing, no yelling -- you need to HEAR it all. Take out the bid and go line by line. Ask what work he REALLY can do, and what he can't, what's finished, what needs to be done, what's paid for, what's not, what's ordered, what's at his workshop, etc. Tools. If he took any pieces of your house away, like doors or radiators etc., for repair you want to know where they are and get slips. Stuff like that. Then, for what he can do, make a realistic, bite-size schedule for as much as you've paid for. Whatever he hasn't done beyond that, I'd say get someone new. It may become obvious during this conversation what is really going on, if you listen and don't hammer him. Is he overextended? Does he have a substance abuse problem? Did he spend your money on another project? If he needs a small amount of money for materials, I might give him that, but not much more. I understand it's hard out there, and people are stuck. I really feel for them. But that doesn't mean this guy is your responsibility to save. He's got enough of your money. If you absolutely feel the necessity to, if your conscience or your religion compels it, dole out money for one job at a time. Counter. Tile. Bookcase. It also worries me a little that if he disappears, what you might discover months from now. Which is probably part of the reason other contractors don't like to take on half-finished projects. Contractor B finishes up shoddy contractor A's work, and there are problems. Contractor B can't prove he didn't do that particular work, or if he saw it, should have seen the problem and didn't re-do it. I think this is perhaps the hardest issue out there. If you trust your GC, every decision flows from there. But you can do all your research in choosing the best GC, do everything right, and still, it can go wrong. Don't blame yourself. There's really nothing you can write into a contract that can prevent someone from doing this. (I'm not a lawyer, that's just common sense.) Some state Bar Associations or attorney general's offices have some limited free or low cost legal advice (like from young lawyers on certain nights of the week who will tell you what laws/cases apply to your case, but not research it or advise you), or can tell you where to get it. I think this is fairly well-trodden territory in contracts. It might be worth giving them a call. Good luck!...See MoreHow long should it take for a contractor to provide an estimate?
Comments (18)If I work, I get paid. I don't work for free. If you call me to your house to discuss a kitchen and bath addition, I'll bring over a portfolio of previous work. We talk about your ideas, we compare them to my previous work, and I can give you an "estimate" or a ballpark figure of what your job might cost, compared to my previous work, adjusted for the level of finish that you're asking for. If you tell me to get lost, or I tell you to get lost, it ends there. If we decide to go further? Now I need to work up proper plans and a proper dollar amount for the work to be performed. Permitting, material costs, subs costs, etc, etc. That might take me 2 or 8 or 40 hours, depending on what the job entails. I get paid for that. When I'm done I have a set of plans, a materials take-off list, and a firm price. You accept my bid by signing the set-price contract. If you choose to not sign, then the plans and other paperwork are yours to keep. Build it yourself, shop the paper around to other builders, toss them in the trash. Your decision. You paid for them. I simply choose to get paid for my time instead of doing paperwork for free. It keeps me from wasting my time, and it keeps you from wasting my time. It works for me, as I'm booked through the fall of 2010. And this is residential, not commercial or municipal. And I wouldn't pay for an estimate either. Why should I pay you to tell me how much you think the job is going to cost? A "binding bid" is the dollar number on the contract. It's the amount of money you agree to pay for the scope of work specified in the contract when you sign the contract....See MoreDoor wrong size..how to deal with contractor. (long)
Comments (6)What a piece of work. Okay, I just don't get the restocking fee. That would be paid to the store where the door was purchased. For example, the store where I purchased my tile charges a 20% restocking fee. So, using a 20% restocking fee, according to my calculations the 31" door was $4750. That's a mighty expensive door..... I agree with evilbunnie, get the paperwork for the doors. I'd be really nice and ask him for the paperwork for the return of the 31" door and the purchase of this door. I bet he won't be able to "find" it. Then you can say, "no problem I am sure the store has a copy so let's call them now and I am sure they can have a copy we can go and get". Can you have your DH videotape this and post it on YouTube? I am scared to ask, but what are the other issues? Have you paid this Bozo for the whole job yet? I would also give the architect a call and ask why am I paying you over $1500 in site visit fees to check on the GC and this was not picked up? Between the GC and the architect they can eat any additional cost of ordering the wrong door (and the labor to make changes to the drywall if necessary). Did the architect suggest you use this GC? I would be VERY CONCERNED that you have not been getting the materials you thought you were getting. I would ask to see ALL the receipts immediately for the materials used on the job. This would really worry me since this is such a blatant attempt to deceive you, I find it hard to believe that this is the only instance that he has tried this....See Moremaries1120
7 years agoscone911
7 years agosouthofsa
7 years agoK Sissy
7 years agomillworkman
7 years agoUser
7 years agoKatrina Tate
7 years agosouthofsa
7 years agomaries1120
7 years ago
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