Dirr says shrub or small tree, 15 to 25 feet tall. "Dark green foliage that is handsome and not susceptible to insect or disease problems. The yellowish green flowers occur before the leaves on the previous season's wood. Dioecious. "

The seeds no longer need the cold - you have broken their dormancy. Well done! You can keep them in the fridge a while longer - until the seed leaves start to emerge from the seeds. But then the fridge will be too dark (unless you keep the door open or 'modify' the door-operated switch!). Take the pot out but keep it cool and keep the compost just slightly moist (if you let it dry and if the seeds are on the top, they could have difficulty working their roots into the compost). Also give the pot good air circulation (to reduce chances of fungal attack) and keep it in good light but out of direct sunlight. At this stage it can be beneficial to spray with a fungicide to help prevent damping-off - where the seedlings get attacked at ground level and keel over and die; but it is not vital. As the seedlings develop over the next month or so, they will be able to tolerate higher temperatures and drier air, so you can aim to gradually move them to a shady porch (say) outside. But keep an eye on them for watering - they won't have much resilience while young - it is all too easy to kill them by just one day's oversight. If you put your pot in a larger one lined with newspaper, and make sure the newspaper gets soaked when you water, that will provide a slightly softer atmosphere and if they roots make it out of the pot, they will have a larger reservoir of moisture to tap into (but without the waterlogging that could arise if you were to repot into a larger pot prematurely). When the first true leaves have become clearly recognizable, you can consider potting the seedlings up individually or maybe in pairs, or you could plant them all in a larger pot. When handling the seedlings, try to do so just by the seed leaves - try to avoid touching the stem. It is a little like a cat picking up a kitten by the scruff of the neck - it looks cruel but really it is the safest way of doing it. I'm sure other folks will have somewhat different techniques and tips; you, too, will have to learn what works for you. Stick with it Martina - I'm sure your perseverence will pay off.

OK -- didn't realize this was a zoning application. I would say that this could make sense. The panel will determine the demand CFM (airflow) based upon the zones calling and communicate this information to the TAM8. It may be that the zone panel itself then controls the ramp-up sequence (i.e., Comfort-R) of the air handler as well. Best way to test this and to see if it is set up properly is to have one zone call for cooling and see if it follows the expected ramp-up profile. Should be noticeable with very little airflow felt from the vents within the first minute of the call for cooling. However with a zoning application, it could also be that Comfort-R isn't an option and the demand airflow is entirely determined based upon zones calling. That would mean it is always at 100% of the demand CFM (whatever fraction of the total nominal CFM that may be) without Comfort-R. I wish I was familiar enough with the control logic of the new Trane modulating zone panel (assuming that's what was installed -- the Comfort Link II package) to give you a definitive yes/no to your questions. It doesn't sound like you got a clear response from your installers as to the operation of Comfort-R and the dehumidify features either, other than the zoning system takes care of it all. Is there anywhere for you to input a desired indoor humidity setting in the ComfortLink II thermostat? How about the individual zone controllers? When Comfort-R is enabled, it is active every cooling cycle regardless of whether the humidity set point is met). I would still find it odd not to have the ability to set humidity from (at least) the main zone thermostat. This post was edited by ryanhughes on Wed, Sep 18, 13 at 20:54

I was in love with a pic of a wooden island with big wheeled feet. I got the same responses you did from the forum and from my contractor. I ended up having my dream island built for me - just without the wheels. I still love it, but I was able to have electrical and didn't lose the extra inches of storage I would have lost with feet. Maybe you could get your island made but without the feet or the feet could just be decorative?