I agree, 1/4 inch even is big; 1/2 inch seems HUGE. Can you shift the range a little? Also, some of those T strips are wider than others. I had to return one set I ordered bcs it was too wide to fit. So do some looking around. They're easily found online, or at Bed Bath & Beyond, and they're inexpensive, and they work really well. (One nice thing; they can be removed to clean on and beside) This one is 2-1/2 inches wide; that ought to work. same brand, I think; different catalog I'm having trouble right now finding the SKINNY strips I needed to use.

This discrepancy should have been caught when the countertop guys templated the countertop. Are your walls that messed up, or is it because of a flawed cabinet installation? Regardless, a 1/2" gap is ridiculous. You can have a new top properly fitted. Bingo, problem solved. Is there a backsplash to be installed? That can hide a gap, with the exception of the gap at the end of the countertop. Depends on if that edge will be visible or not. Everything else is a compromise of sorts in that you can reduce the gap in the back but you overhang in front. You can slide it back but then your cabinet overhang at the front of the cabinets will be skewed. You can scribe the countertop as is, slide the entire thing back 1/2" to close the gap on the right. That'll give you even reveal on the front overhang, but it'll be 1/2" less front cabinet overhang than you have now. Or you can do a fraction of that 1/2". Slide it back 1/4" for a 1/4" gap on the back left, and lose 1/4" of overhang at the front of the cabinets. You can notch the drywall on the back right wall and slide the top back. Same effect as the previous recommendation, but you're notching the drywall instead of scribing the countertop. Another alternative is to use mud to float out the back wall. Essentially you're making the back wall "thicker" to bring the wall forward to meet the countertop. It'd have to be done in several steps, and you'd have to feather the half-inch thickness down over the run of the wall. But that also depends on windows on the wall and how the existing window trim will be affected. There are fixes and there are band-aid repairs. Mongo

No can do on the "doing it correctly from the beginning" thing, unless there's a time machine that will transport me back 36 years. I think the compounding solution is a little beyond my expertise, but thanks nonetheless. I think the quarter round suggestion is more my speed. I may even cut it down to as small a piece that will work, attach it with some adhesive, then caulk and paint. Thanks.

Hi Momtoalex, When I first got my DW, I was devasted. I thought that it had to much room on either side. It was not until I saw other DW that I realized it was normal to have a tiny bit of space. I know this is a range but maybe seeing other ranges can help you see if yours is way off. Does your range have little feet on the bottom? My Bosch does which can help make the range more level. There should also be an anti tip device too. How to check if something is level would be to use an actual tool. This way you can help center the range. A simple way if you do not have a level would be to find a marble. If the marble rolls to one side, you know it needs to be lifted a bit. I would also take some photos for GW. That way we can see what the issues are exactly and help you find a solution. If the space is huge, you can buy a simple product or have your counter people fashion a sliver of stone to help cover the space. Meanwhile here are some images of ranges that might help you determine how terrible the space you have is. A slide in range should have little to no space but a regular oven range is going to have milimeters of space on either side. Good luck and hopefully you can get this fixed. ~boxerpups DIY Tiles with kitchen in a bag Kenmore website Google range Range buying guide This Old House farm kitchen Stove and tile backsplash