Question about perched water table
Lauren (Zone 9a)
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
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tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Q. Re Perched Water Table Depth
Comments (5)Well duh! I should have known that....kind of guessed, but wasn't sure. I could see how the bigger particle size would allow more air space and break the water tension. Pot depth will only matter to the particular plant and how much root room it needs. What had me straining the gray matter on this is that another forum member and I have been playing with using composted pine bark and composted cotton burrs as rooting medium under mist. I believe from other posts that she has a timer and I do not. So far I haven't rotted a rose cutting, but I do think I probably need to sift out the "fines" for insurance. The saving factor for me is that I am using the 3/4 to 1 gallon per hour mist (fog) nozzles, and have them 2' above the cuttings and spraying upward so that I get even more drift. Al, One more question or opinion. Will making cuts up the sides of the pots do anything to break water tension? I made large holes in cottage cheese cartons and then took them to a band saw to cut from the drain hole up about 3 inches into the sides of the pot....See MorePerched water table and wicking to earth
Comments (9)Yeah ... I've never had to "top off" an actual raised bed (that is in contact with the ground). Containers get dumped every year or two and the contents added to the compost. I don't grow in containers much any more, though that could change next year. I'm quite limited in open space for a garden here. I'm thinking of building my own Veggie Trugs next spring. This is a large container and not really a "raised bed" because it has no soil contact. On the other hand, I use mulching materials that (eventually) add to the soil, and there is the compost going into the beds. The mulching encourages earthworms - my raised beds are typically bursting with earthworms. And they help by pulling material down into the soil, aerating and churning things up down there, and generally keep the soil light and fluffy. That doesn't work so well in actual containers though. I'm not sure how I'll treat the home-made veggie trugs yet. That's way too much potting mix to discard every year. I'll have to experiment and see....See MorePhyllostachys Vivax: Perched water table? Root rot?
Comments (2)You could repot and mix in chicken grit or sand. Chicken grit is a very, very fine gravel. You can also buy some NAPA floor dry, (NOT item 8822, you do not want diatomaceous earth). This is fired clay, so it wont break down, it holds moisture but not too much. I have used this stuff as 100% of my soil in many potted plants. On thing I have found with my bamboos, is that they love bark in the soil. So rather than gravel at the bottom of the pot I put pine bark mulch. It drains and once the roots get down that far, they root to the bark. This post was edited by botanicalbill on Wed, Mar 26, 14 at 19:57...See MoreWhen does a Perched Water Table matter?
Comments (118)I am seeing this thread for the first time, and while I did not read the whole thing I am wondering if the original question was really addressed. The original poster is talking about situations where the root zone is far away from the perched water table. Instead of addressing that specific issue, somehow this thread got directed to the question of whether perched water table matters at all (clearly it does). Let's consider a specific example. Say I have an oil vase that is four feet high. I fill that will 511. Then I plant shallow rooted plants in that oil vase, so those roots are about 3.5 feet away from the bottom of the pot. In this post, a user makes the point that you want the root zone to have less than 5 kPa of pressure/tension in order to be able to take water out of the soil and nourish the roots. I do not understand this issue well, but using the data in that post (i.e., 1 kPa = 3.94 inches for a particular soil mix), that seems to imply that this soil mix would get to 5 kPa at about 20 inches of height from the top of the perched water table. You would get to 5 kPa at: 3.94 in/kPa * 5 kPa = 19.7 in ~= 20 in. That might imply that you want to keep the bottom of your root zone within 20 inches of the top of the PWT, otherwise the roots might have problems getting the best extraction of water out of the soil, in the days after watering. So back to the original question that was posted, it seems to me that there might be value in looking at the root behavior of what you are planting, and the size of the pot, and you might want to keep the bottom of your roots within an appropriate distance from the top of the PWT, in order to give the roots an easier time in extracting water out of the soil. That's way more complexity than most of us are willing to deal with, and I am sure there is a lot of science and practical understanding that I do not have on this issue. But maybe it is not a good idea to put a shallow rooted plant into a very deep container....See Moretapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
7 years agoLauren (Zone 9a)
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agojamilalshaw26
7 years agoLauren (Zone 9a)
7 years agojamilalshaw26
7 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
7 years agoLauren (Zone 9a)
7 years agojamilalshaw26
7 years ago
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Lauren (Zone 9a)Original Author