As long as you have fresh, green grass, the rabbits will go for that first. Rabbits only eat alfalfa pellets when in captivity and they don't have anything fresh to eat. But having said that, once you put the alfalfa pellets down, you should moisten them (not drench them). They will swell up like giant green worms and fall apart. Once they have swollen up, they become hard to eat for any critter except the microbes. If you want to be sure, you can drag a push broom over the swollen pellets and they will fall apart down into the turf. Rabbit poop is an excellent fertilizer! There are no liquid fertilizers for a lawn that are worth anything. Even Medina Hasta Gro is not good. Why? Because a lawn needs pounds and pounds of nitrogen. Liquids can apply fractions of an ounce and nothing more. Liquids are good for what we call micro nutrients. Besides, Medina Hasta Gro is not organic. If you listen to Bob Webster on weekend morning radio (550 AM), he is very organic but does not seem to understand that Hasta Gro is a chemical fertilizer. You can soften your soil now so that it will accept the moisture. Spray 3 ounces per 1,000 square feet of baby shampoo or any clear shampoo. Spray that on your watering day right before you water. Then water a full inch all at once. Measure that inch with tuna or cat food cans. Next week water normally. The following week repeat the shampoo before watering. After the second treatment your soil should be considerably different. It should feel soft under foot right after you water and get hard again during the days before you water again. This takes the place of core aeration. This is not a trick or a gimmick. The only difference between this treatment and what the professionals use is they spend $70 per gallon for their surfactant and you will pay $1 for 15 ounces of Alberto Vo5 or generic baby shampoo at the dollar store. The shampoo will last a long time if you water weekly in the summer and monthly in the cool months. The last time I did it was 2011 and my soil still feels soft when wet. I use an Ortho adjustable hose-end sprayer to spray shampoo. It doesn't matter what adjustment you use if you do it like this. Measure your lawn. Let's say it is 2,000 square feet. That means you'll need 6 ounces of shampoo (that's a minimum by the way). Pour 6 ounces into the sprayer bottle and fill it with water. Then you can use any setting on the sprayer as long as you spray evenly and spray it all out onto the grass. One of the gurus on another forum tried this using 50 ounces per 1,000 square feet every weekend and there were no problems. We know that 3 ounces works and we know that 50 ounces won't hurt anything, so it appears very hard to make a mistake with this.

Sorry, Don't have anything to trade. In San Antonio, soils tend to be quite dry. I was implying that I would need to water them to get them started. It seems that the Arum is popular in the Carolinas, especially North Carolina and along the eastern US. Howewever, I don't see any reference to it growing in Florida. Southern Living has heat zone recommendation for Arum Italicum as maximum of heat zone 9. Most of the Carolinas are in heat zone 8. I live in heat zone 10. (However, heat zone 9 plants do survive in summer shade here. The Arums would be in full summer shade, winter part sun) The heat zone is different from the USDA hardiness. It is based on the number of days over 86 degrees per year. In San Antonio, that's about 160 days per year. Same is for most of Florida. Since many bulbs need a certain amount of "winter chill", I wonder if this is one of them? There are bulbs that thrive in high heat zones and need no winter chill, such as elephant ears, canna, caladiums etc. Bulbs that require winter chill are tulips, crocus don't make it here. Even many of the daffodils don't do well here. Anyway, I wonder what if there is a "winter chill" length requirement for Arum Italicum? Winter chill doesn't necessarily mean freezing. It may have to do with number of days/hours less than 60 degrees. (Or hours/days with soil temperature less than 70 degrees or 60 degrees.) I wonder if climate is "too warm", the poor plants may have trouble breaking dormancy in the fall? Generally, in San Antonio, the entire month of October is 80 degrees and above. I know that Arums can grow in frost free environments such as northern California, but they have year round "cool" weather, with very few days with any weather over 80 degrees.

Would love some water lilies if someone has some.

Thanks tech biker. I know less about engines than I know about grass, which isn't too much, but your analogy makes sense. As well as the advice. As far as organic food choice compared to chemical, for me, I think its two reasons why I like it - 1. ease of use ; less chance of human error, over feeding, easier to apply and water in without chemical burn or cement discoloration (which I have a lot of visible mistakes lol) 2. safer for my family, pets, environment. My current goals are to keep it simple like you say. Adequate food, water, sunlight part I'm working on trimming trees. My father just got an extended chainsaw pole trimmer...we are going to share it. I'll be able to reach further up now to shape up all the trees. I"m mowing consistently at 1.0 inch height at approx every 3 or 4 days. I'm maintaining my equipment as best as I can. And I'm trying to be as healthy as I can. This last 2 months have been tough. I just applied texas tee tonight. I gave it a light soak in to keep the dust down. We just had a huge downpour saturday and then we are fried with 105 degree weather sunday and today. I'm still not pleased with a couple of yellowish areas..but I see some green forming. I'm guessing the recovery from my last human errors have just been taking a while to cure. I'll probably do another round of baby shampoo next time I water. Looking forward to posting some quality pictures soon. I do have some great looking areas though, carpet like. The sides of our house are still a no mans land riddled with weeds. They grow fast. I'm trying to keep it low. I really hate even cutting it. I feel like I'm contaminated my mowers just by cutting them, and that I'm spreading their guts everywhere infecting the rest of my yard! I'm guessing its 20/25 percent grass and 80 percent weed. Plus one side has I believe saint augustine growing thanks to the previous owner of the house next to us who planted it or something. I'm guessing winter might be the best time to start a weed attack and prevent regimen.