OP djg58 is correct in that the condenser fan of many older Sub-Zeros runs continuously. The evaporator fans that circulate cooled air  one for each of the refrigerator and freezer compartments  only run when the doors are closed (and the lights are out). The condenser fan of my 1991 model 511 runs continuously  except during a power outage of course. My only concern about linking the single condenser fan to the compressors is that any residual heat in the condenser will not be dissipated after the compressor(s) shuts off, possibly reducing the life of those components. Besides, with Sub-ZeroÂs dual-compressor design the condenser fan is needed to remove heat from either the refrigerator compressor or the freezer compressor  or both, as they run independently of one another. IÂm not an HVAC expert, but it seems that the power savings of linking the fan to the compressors would result in negligible power savings at the potential expense of heat-related failure of other expensive components.

I've had Sub-Zeros in various homes for nearly 30 years. I'd never consider another brand. I also think the refrigerators the company is producing today are the best they've ever made. The Sub-Zero warranty is second to none, and on the couple of occasions when I required a service call, Sub-Zero's service was fast and efficient. In both instances, the required repair was covered under warranty. I doubt you'd be happy with another refrigerator. Sub-Zero's dual compressor system really does make a difference, especially in the refrigerator compartment where the higher humidity level in a Sub-Zero keeps food, and especially produce, fresher much longer than in an ordiary fridge. You'll also find that the model 650 has a much larger freezer section than in your previous model, with much better accessibility. The pull-out drawer is a huge improvement. The idea of a counter-depth slide-in fridge sounds awful to me, especially the idea of leaving the old Sub-Zero grill above. It would look sloppy, unfinished and like you were skimping -- particularly if the edges of the cabinetry around the refrigerator opening aren't finished. Do yourself a favour and go for another Sub-Zero -- you'll be much happier. But if you're still tempted to look at another brand of built-in -- be sure to compare the warranties. Just my two cents. James

Antss - I think you're mistaken, and it's your posting that's likely to confuse people. As I wrote earlier, the rough opening specification for BI-36U is 35-1/2 wide by 83-3/4" tall. That is exactly the same as the rough opening for the previous 650 model. If you're replacing a model 650 (or a 550, for that matter) wirh a new BI-36U/S Classic Stainless model, a framed panel model, or an overlay model, it will slide right into the same space that the old model was in. No alteration is necessary. Only the new Flush Inset models require slightly different clearances to allow the larger door fronts to swing unimpeded and to match up with the cabinet door fronts on surrounding cabinetry. If you're installing a new Flush Inset model, the rough opening is still 35-1/2" (between the mounting cleats) by 83-3/4". The difference is the way that allowance needs to be made for the refrigerator door panels, which are 37" wide, and thus wider than the appliance case. The door panels on a flush inset model requires 38" of space in front of the side mounting cleats and between the doors or drawer fronts on either side of the refrigerator. See the diagrams in the Sub-Zero instruction manual. The rough opening in the cabinet carcass (or between the cleats), however, remains unchanged from the rough opening specification on earlier models -- 35-1/2" x 83-3/4" with a minimum of 24" depth to the front of the mounting cleats on either side of the appliance. See pages 8 & 9 of the Sub Zero Installation Instructions at the link below. It's all clearly illustrated. Crazykitchen54 - If you're going with the Classic Stainless Steel model, the installation specification for the rough opening dimensions are exactly the same as the specification for older models. Here is a link that might be useful: Sub Zero BI-XX Installation Instructions

Thanks everyone for the information. What we're planning (although it could change yet) for the outer "show panels" is to have 6 panels to match our cabinets. They will be 2 panels wide, and have a "door" panel, a "drawer" panel, then another taller "door" on top of that. Here's a SketchUp drawing of how we think it will look: I also posted this in the woodworking forum, and got this response: I make my door inserts as two pieces. One piece is the 'show panel', usually 3/4' thick, it's the door that you actually see. The assembled stiles, rails, raised panels, etc. All painted or stained up purdy. The second set of pieces I make combine the .10' spacer and the .25' panel in one. I usually rip roughly 2' to 3' wide strips of 3/4' poplar on my table saw. I'll rip a 3/4' thick poplar board to say about 3' wide. I then reset the fence to just a tad under 3/8', flip the board up on edge, and run it through so I now have ~3/8' shy thick by 3' wide strips of poplar. Now I rest the fence to 1/4' from the blade and raise the blade to about 5/16' high. I then run the strips through. This will waste away something like a rabbet, roughly .10' by 5/16'. This poplar strip now serves as both my .10' shim and my .25' thick backer panel. I attach them to the back of my door panel, around the perimeter of the panel. I'll certainly post pictures once it's done.