It depends on the rose and the problem. I've found that I can accommodate a rose that isn't the color I'd hoped, or isn't the size I'd hoped (although I do try to move them) and I'll try for years. I can't bring myself to remove a healthy rose. But a rose that clearly isn't going to be healthy for me? Early removal is better than later. Blackspot is here to stay, sadly, so severely affected roses need to go bye-bye. Roses that aren't tolerant to heat and humidity also can't stay. Neither are roses that, for no good reason, begin to commit suicide as soon as they cross the property line. I watch slow growers. I try moving them. I give them more than a year, a lot more if they're generally healthy. But if they can't do what they're supposed to do here, we need to part company. I have several that I received this year, still in pots, that will need to find a new home. One, a Biltmore rose that I thought would surely be at home here, has gone through several cycles of leaf loss due to blackspot. Another came to me with chlorosis and it hasn't improved much. I will give it a little more time and see if it can get better. A third seems to be entirely unhappy here, although I've tried moving it and even repotting it. It will improve for a time, but then lose its leaves and look pathetic again. Surprising to me, since it was hybridized in Tennessee. I have only so much time, space and energy to put toward roses so they need to be able to thrive here. If they can't do that, I figure that I shouldn't have them and they shouldn't be here. I haven't always felt this way, but over time, I've realized that saying yes to a sickly rose or one that will never thrive means saying no to a rose that would be happy and do well here.

Like everything else in life, there is trade-off in growing roses as well. If you want bloom for the whole growing season in the cold northern climate, then you need Hybrid Tea roses but you have to work at it. You have to keep the area clean of weeds and debris such as diseased leaves, fertilize and water as required. Watch for disease that can afflict Hybrid Tea roses, most common of which is black spots (fungus) most probably caused by wet leaves in humid weather and when there is less space for air circulation around the bush. You have to be ready to counter the black spot with fungicide before it spreads. It can defoliate the plant making it weak going into the winter. In fall, you have to mound the base of the plant with soil, peat moss and leaves to protect the root and graft area. If there is no mound at the bottom, the cold can kill the graft very often, or periodic freezing, thawing and freezing again can lift and tear the roots up thus breaking the tiny roots and subsequent plant kill. You have to stop feeding fertilizer after mid August so more energy goes into hardening the existing plant rather than growing new shoots. It is better to prune the branches before freeze so plant energy will not be wasted by maintaining the long branches before they freeze. If this is too much to do then you have to plant hardy roses such as any from the Explorer series developed in Ottawa or the Marden series developed in Manitoba for Northern cold areas. These do not requires as elaborate attention but the bloom will not be perpetual over the growing season as is the case with the Hybrid Tea type. The bloom in most cases will be in early summer, and periodic with surprise bloom now and then in the summer time. If you want to enjoy beautiful bloom continuously throughout the growing season then plant Hybrid Tea roses and pay respect with due attention and labour of love throughout the growing season as well as at t he end of the season.. If you want roses with minimum efforts then plant hardy roses (like Explorer and Marden series) and be satisfied with lesser bloom. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.

"So I guess it depends on what you are trying to propagate." Absolutely! " I generally use media rather than water" Me too, depends on the plant, cutting size, time of year, weather... ...but I read that "water roots" don't always transition to media well." Yeah, "they" do say that but they never elaborate. There's a huge gray area from when a cutting is stuck in water to when it is moved to media, an indefinite time span. I think it's good to put a lot of cuttings in water for a short time first, depending on the plant, until one sees roots *start to develop,* not fill the bottle or even get to a measurable length. Once it's obvious the entity has gotten the message that roots should be formed, I see no reason to wait in water any longer. Other things would just rot, and should actually dry/callous for a few days before attempting to propagate. A general rule is wilting. If you take cuttings that wilt immediately, they're going to have a hard time rooting in media (without the aid of some type of humidity augmentation, as mentioned.) For these plants, constant/consistent moisture, at least at the cut end, is necessary to stay alive long enough to form roots. But cuttings of something like Tradescantia zebrina, jade, or most of the succulents that do not wilt will not release their moisture quickly enough to need to be in water. For these plants, it is the search for moisture that inspires roots. Actual moisture may likely result in rot. I can't speak experientially about propagating Scheff as I haven't done it many times, but it is known for growing slowly, which would apply to anything, like forming roots. For the others, I've done it countless times, 4 of my fav plants. Tradescantia zebrina is extremely succulent and unlikely to wilt for a few days, immediately forming aerial roots if not already present. T. fluminensis, more prone to wilting but will also 'heal' at the cut and send the aerials. Heart-leaf Philo cuttings take several days to wilt also, though enjoys a few days in water as a cutting if the 'money node' doesn't already have fresh aerial roots. All three will take root if simply dropped on the ground outside during summer (and can make contact with the soil.) You've pegged the Coleus as a wilter, so why people often radically trim the leaves to prop in media. If put in water for a few days first until roots appear, a cutting can retain much more foliage, IME. I also think a lot of the problems people have prop'ing directly in media are due to insufficient size of buried part. Submerging 4" of stem is much more likely to produce success than 1". The last of the moisture tends to be at the bottom of the pot. No doubt that humidity augmentation can make a huge difference for some plants in some situations. Sadly, though, plants that don't wilt are much more mysterious during the prop process. If they're dying, it's not usually apparent until they're just kinda gone one day, like...

after the statistics came out about how many children and smaller adults were injured by airbags, vehicle manufacturers developed second generation airbags. they are designed to deploy more slowly and only if the impact requires it to deploy. Instead of having sensors at the front bumper they moved them into the passenger compartment to measure the force that is being transferred to the passengers inside the vehicle. If the force inside the vehicle is not suffcient to injure the passengers, the airbags do not deploy. They will also not deploy on some vehicles if the sensor in the seat does not detect enough weight to know whether the passenger is a child or small adult.