What is a fair reimbursement for remodeling construction disaster?
Row J
7 years ago
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7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoUser
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Pantry disaster- what should I do??
Comments (11)Move-in has nothing to do with the end of the project when you are doing a large project. Many people move in before they are completely finished. You should not confuse MOVE IN with the END OF THE PROJECT. It is hard to live in a house with the contractor lurking around, but this is a common thing that happens in a large construction project. You need to talk to the builder and help him figure out where he needs to concenrate so you can move in on time. Tell him that the pantry will be fixed after the move in. Work with the builder so you can move in on time and still have what you want. For example, you can do the trim and moulding (if you can live with some sawdust), fixtures, etc after you move in but you can't finish the floor after you move in so that is a must. Painting is more difficult with your stuff but it can be done. The exterior of the house can be done quite easily while you live there if there is still painting or trim work to be done. (How did you do the exterior paint in the winter?) Find out what is requred for you to get the certificate of occupancy so that the builder can work to satisfy that before dealing with things like pantry. Don't let the contractor bully you into accepting what you don't like/want. You are paying his paycheck. If it was me, I would work on what I really want even though there will be guys around after I move in. But then I have done several large remodels while living in the house so I think nothing of the construction crew showing up in the morning as I run off to work. Toward the end of the project, you need to go through the house and have a punch list of the things that needs to be fixed, addressed, repaired etc. I would start making my own punch list since you are near the end. This way, you have a record of things that you can show with the builder as you are finishing up. Until the punch list is done, you don't pay the contractor in full....See MoreNot sure which way to turn, , H-E-L-P! (xost to Home Disaster)
Comments (4)For an insurance claim, you usually have up to 2 years to report any additional damage found as a cause of the initial claim, without paying an additional deductible, but your policy may be different. Get a reputable contractor (preferably 2 or 3), along with YOUR insurance adjuster, and the roofing company adjuster to take a look and determine the best course of action. I agree completely with the photos-of damage, during repair process, and after repairs are completed. Keep a copy for yourself-hold on to them for a minimum of 2 years, possibly longer, if you should decide to sell the house, you have proof that the repairs were done correctly and to code....See MoreWhat is a fair price to renovate a kitchen?
Comments (14)I'm in suburban Philadelphia and also doing a small kitchen. But I'm acting as my own GC and KD. I designed the layout, hired a custom cabinet maker (solid maple and oak construction), electrician, plumber, window company. Plus I've done most of the buying of my own supplies (faucet, backsplash tile, lights, even switches and outlets, hood, range). Some online and some locally. Custom Cabinets Quartz Countertop One Window (keeping floor - it's slate) GE Profile Range Hood (new install) sink and faucet electrical work plumbing - just new under sink (old corroded) carrera marble subway backsplash I'm up to ~$22-23K at this point (they are down there drywalling as I write!) I think I saved a LOT of money doing it this way but it's been very time consuming for me to keep track of all the details and make every decision. I also have really good contractors. Lived in this area many years so the plumber and window people are our 'regulars', the electrician works with my DH and does this as a side job. The cabinet maker is a funny story. Recommended by a colleague whose wife works with BOTH of the wives of the carpenters! I'm in research and colleagues wife is at another local research institute. It's a brother/brother-in-law operation and they've done quite a few kitchens for the local scientific community and everyone raves about them. OH, and I'm having a rather large pantry (8 doors) in a hall off the kitchen reframed and hung with matching doors. So it seems I've about spent your quote without the floor, design work or arch, but including one appliance. Hope this helps you somewhat. Good luck!...See MoreReimbursing losing GC for scope of work
Comments (18)First, I don't understand how what you have is a cost plus contract. Unless I am not understanding the process you are ending up with none of the benefits of a cost plus contract and probably all of the exposure, which you are not even in a position to know. There is a thread that I suggest you read here on GW - fixed-vs-cost-plus-contracts. Pay special attention to the things that cookncarpenter and renovator8 say. I think you will see the deficiency in what you have. To quote a portion of what Cook says in that thread here - After an initial meeting to discuss the project and what the contractual basis and subsequently my fee will be, the owner supplies me approved plans to distribute to subs for bid. I then compile all the proposals from my subs, which are fixed bids, spelling out exactly what their contract includes and excludes. I then share and review these bids openly with owner, and we discuss possibly alternate or multiple bids in some categories if the budget is not met on the first pass. These fixed bid costs are passed on directly to the owner, and my client now knows the "cost" and my fee (which is usually a percentage, but not always) and has already been negotiated, therefore another known cost. Next, I am having trouble understanding your math for the siding so I just, looked at your plans and got the amount needed, then got a per piece price for downtown LA and compared it with here. California came out slightly cheaper, I assume James Hardie's plant is closer to California. Then called my lumber yard to see what we were looking at for a full quote. The materials quote for full retail in my area came out to $10,339 and install would be much less than $6,000, my actual quote since I am building a house with their wood came back at $7,443. Using full retail prices, with siding installers (which would be more than using framers already on site), and fully trimming out a craftsman style house you are going to be much less than $10 - $12 per square....See MoreUser
7 years agogeoffrey_b
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7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoJoseph Corlett, LLC
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