"What to do with the trees in the block that don't sell? You can't just hold them for another year and dig a larger rootball if they are in a RCB. " You pot them up same as any other good container nursery would. To be fair RCB cost more, and so you would probable want to salvage the old RCB which takes more labor. But at the same time, the root systems are much less likely to need real work, so that is a labor savings (again assuming everything else is done properly). " If they were in RCBs by the time you pulled the bag off you have a bareroot tree which in short order will defoliate. Imagine the look on your client's face when you go to make your collection. " FALSE ARGUMENT! 1. You do not use native soil in RCB. Therefore that scenario will not happen. 2. Even if very loose native soil was used, dense root systems will hold that material together one the pot is removed. Same principle that dense fibrous root system plants are planted on slopes to prevent erosion control. Therefore the scenario of planting bare root RCB plant is not going to happen. 3. Even if the plants ended up bare root, virtually all the roots will still be present. So once planted properly and waters as per proper procedure, all the roots will be surrounded by very moist native soil. Therefore the stated scenario will not happen. "They "pamper" every tree and every one is a winner, no deer damage because of fencing. Soil is sandy loam typical of the Eastern Shore" What about the other thousand growers? Very of them will take such care. Nor do I live on the eastern coast, so their trees will not be coming my way. Nor do I have soil of this type. Clay is much more common over most of the country, and that can lead to drainage issues. With that said, I would love to have access to the plants grown in the pictures. No doubt a well run grower. However, that is simply not the case for most of us. Plus as nice as the pictures are, they both clearly show buried root flares. One of the most common causes of transplant failure is readily visible in those photos. Arktrees

Davidro1, Hehe, thanks, and I like your "style". The 80 gallon could be mostly fine but most setups have 4 body sprays not 8 and also with air bath, I feel we will need backup if we ever wabt to take bath & shower back to back. Plus kids baths etc. My gc who does plumbing may not be the ultimate expert in plumbing but is probably better then most avg. Plumbers and may not be up on everything buy hes pretty smart and accurate. He was good enoigj to do a maze of copper piping snd loops for the dtv with 8 body sprays, a shower head and hand held plus still room to do a manual controles roughin valve piped to another wall supply elbow (as a back up if dtv ever down) I like a lot of ppl on these forums started small and ended uo doing mlre then i intended. I woukd have been fine with 4 body sprays but couldnt cancel/return the 4 off wall sprays and really wabted the kohker water tiles because they are flush so also got 4 of those for the sides. The bathroom project has been a nightmare because of a bad middleman contractor who held money & matetials plus made mistakes aming other probkems and huge delays. I just want to get done and resume my life with my family. Its just if this is our forever house, my wife said if you are going to do it, donit right. I told her no to body sprays and now end up with 8. The kohler dtv was also not intended but I went with it to save ne from buying more valves and trims to control everything and i got good price on the valve and interface. Of course the space in wall was tight so couldnt use the more expensive pex so had to use copper which while cheaper tool my gc/plumber 4 days ti do paid by the hour. Anyway, he said his friend did a tankless, that its great and he can install no problem. He suggests having it feed just the master bath and will be plenty. I think my gas lines will be sufficient cus they areinly 5 yrs old and pretty thick yellow pvc gas lines. No idea where hed install it and how it would tie into just the bathroom but if it works out and the bathroom ever gets done and all wotks ok will be a miracle at this point. Gas lines are in basement under the side of the house where masterbathroom is and water softener (we brought with us from old house) and water shutoff is on the other side of the basement under side of the house my daughters bathroom is which is probably why hers has the best water pressure. So hopefully 1 medium/large tankless for just master bath will be enough. Still have to pick and find one. As for water pressure, ive been worried about that from the start. We dont need or neccesary love super high water pressure but as long as we have volume control (which dtv does and even the manual handheld i put on a supply elbiw with vc) then its good to have the power available. And bodysprays are useless if the water just trickles out (ive seen bad installs) I guess i just hoped the dtv would magically boost the water pressure. But I fear a pressure booster might be neccesary but I have no clue where ti get one or how its installed. I fear it would have already had to be put in with the pipong which now has tile backerboard sheet rock covering it all. Maybe the lressure booster can be put in basement with the tankless, both feeding just the master bath? I also have the major stress of getting a new tub last minute now that my order was canceled by the manufac believe it or not due to a most ridiculous and border line illegal debacle of which we wefe the victim of (see Jason hydrotherapy thread) And depending what tub we get, may need to put an access panel in the laundry room ceiling below tub to access a second and left sided blower. It never ends, the expense and the stress that is. Add to that a scammings middleman contractor who currently has our money and some materials but hasnt even used our money to get the rest of the tiles yet. Oh and because of him owing the gra ite fabricator money we had tonuse a different fabricator for the seconf half of the stone for the jov so its not going to match. Anyway, we'll keep this thread about Kohler dtv and the water heater and water pressure pump needs therein.

We looked at both and ultimately decided on the Moen. The deciding factors for us were that (#1) the Moen I/O Digital has a flow control and the Kohler does not (so you would need to buy flow control valve(s)) and (#2) the Moen has a larger display that we could easily read without our glasses. I liked the look of the Kohler and its flush mount. I don't recall which finishes it comes in but I know that we had to go with brushed nickel on the Moen instead of our first choice, polished nickel. I was lukewarm about getting the I/O Digital when my husband first mentioned it. I had envisioned our shower with lots of shiny levers and knobs to match our Sigma faucets so a single rather contemporary panel was an adjustment for me. I got over that the first time I used our new shower. I absolutely LOVE our I/O Digital! The remote control is a very big reason. I hit the button for the showerhead that I want as I'm about to get in and by the time I open the door, it's up to temperature. I love that I can see exactly what temperature it is set for and it blinks as you're starting to run low on hot water (while the temperature is still maintained at its setting.) We really couldn't be more pleased with our Moen I/O Digital and we've just ordered one for our guest bath reno.

TD, Thanks, this gives me some more information to present. I see the 45,775. What is the [B]Ventilation[/B] and [B]AED Excursion[/B] that's referenced, bringing the total to 53,642? I don't see on the Manual J where there's anything showing a factor for the Icynene insulation, which is supposed to allow me to reduce the sizing of HVAC, or the Low-E, argon-insulated windows we're using. I'd imagine they'd have an impact on the recommended size. Also, my wife and I don't use A/C as much as other people. The house is on the water and gets a really good breeze off the river. That, coupled with ceiling fans in all rooms, is good enough for us except for very hot, humid weather, which of course is all Summer in SW Florida. When we do run A/C, we usually don't set it lower than 78, and never lower than 76. As long as the humidity is lowered to a comfortable range, 76 to 78 is perfect for us. If I understand the role of sizing, a too large compressor will not run long enough to dehumdify properly, and with a thermostat at 78 it's possible we'll never get the humidity to a comfortable level. On the first floor, the 520sf Guest Suite will rarely be occupied, so we will have the suite closed off and the thermostat set to 80 to 82. The two other zones, totaling 2000sf, will be used every day and will have stats at 76 to 78, so normally we'll be cooling 2000sf. Should this be factored in the Man J, too? They're just running the ducts and the zoning dampers now. The compressors won't be installed until at least August, so I have time to make the right decision. I'm not sure when they put the two air handlers in. With the 4-ton XL 19i would the air handler be the same as the 5-ton? If so, then I don't have to worry about that in case those go in earlier. We're moving in June and renting the house next to our build, and I'd rather go over all this face to face instead of email. If it can't wait, I'll fly down and have a meeting. I agree with you that superior HVAC is very important, and I don't want to make an error. Where would be the best place to find an independent party to review the calcs, and what do I need to supply to get accurate info? Thanks again for everything. Kevin