help re: plumbing inspection
Adam Bunker
7 years ago
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re: re-routing a plumbing line
Comments (0)Background: We are taking these two walls as part of remodeling. The two walls are marked "X" in the picture of lengths 36" and 84". These walls are located in the first floor directly below our master bedroom and master bath. We have a finished basement on the floor below these walls. We discovered drain pipe and inlet water line running through one wall (36") and it is also a load bearing wall. We confirmed by opening a small part of the sofit, where we located these drain pipe + water inlet pipe. The drain pipes for the master bath sink and jacuzzi are through another wall but they use all share the same inlet water pipe. The master bath shower is directly over the intersection of 36" wall and 84" wall. The inlet pipe or water line runs from basement to the master bath through this side wall (36"). In addition, the drain from the shower upstairs runs down through this wall. There is a sofit above the wall (84") which we plan to keep even after removal of the wall. Therefore, the suggestion from the plumber/contractor is to keep the sofit and run plumbing through the sofit to the other end and bring it down through the adjacent wall. i.e., "wall A". Then in the basement run the plumbing across the length of 84" wall to connect back to the original drain. In short, instead of a straight drop down we go around 3 sides of the rectangle. We ahve also located a waterline running from water heater in the basement through the wall A. My concern is (1) whether this will affect pressure in the shower upstairs? (2) Also, drain running all the way through all these walls - is it OK? (3) any better alternative? We have structural engineer to provide drawings to remove the walls. (4) Should I ask him to help with these plumbing lines? Thanks in advance for sharing your knowledge on how we should proceed....See MoreIs this proposed re-plumb legal?
Comments (6)Kirsh: Should work, according to your drawing. It is okay to have those 45's you are talking about. Tee it in to the wash machine vent like you said, at least 6" above the top of the wash machine stand pipe. I always recommend the tee at 42" off the floor, usually the top of a washer stand pipe is 36" off the floor thus 36" + 6" = 42", but make sure whatever everything is at you have at least the 6". And, yes, you han have that "auxillary" vent tee into a vent that is teeing into another vent. Many houses have just one main vent going through the roof and all the vents for the fixtures all tee off of one another. The old WM vent you are abondoning cut it off and cap it close to the tee if you can. I think it looks bad to have old pipes sticking up that do nothing. The overflow pan isn't a bad idea. Like you said, it doesn't tie into the plumbing system, just have it indirectly drain with no trap or vent into the laundry tub with a gap above the rim of the LT, at least an inch or more. The line can be whatever size you want, I've seen some that are 1", the ones I use have an 1 1/2" opening. 1" will be fine. It may never get used, but would be a problem saver if it does. I wouldn't recommend a check valve on the end of it, just something that could get stuck and then defeat the purpose of it. I've never seen a critter problem with these indirect drains that I can remember. Have fun and good luck--TheCapt....See MorePlease Help... home inspection report
Comments (79)akkw, so sorry this is turning out like it is, but I think you are making a wise decision. Even if this means a little chaos to start with schools etc. it probably means less chaos in the long run for your family. You don't know if you would have to move out of the other house for any period of time to fix problems and re-mediate the mold so better some chaos now than a lot more later. It will most likley just seem like some chaos of moving anyways and you'll be better off long term....See MoreRemodeling without a permit?
Comments (150)geoffrey-b "remodeling without a permit." Yes. If you scroll back to the top of this page you'll see that is the title of the thread. This entire page is a series of comments by people "investigating" that very thing. I came here looking to see what other people had said about that issue. I decided to post my story. I don't trust my city planning/building department. They have shown a clear intent to use this system as a cash cow. I can afford $300 for an attorney. More than that actually, because my real estate attorney is $280 per hour with a 4 hr minimum. I don't want to pay him, and I don't want to pay the thousands of dollars the city wants. My wife and I will use that money for a trip to Greece. Believe me, I would much rather be going through the inspection/approval system. My town has taken an adversarial approach and I choose not to pay into it. I have already proceeded. If and when we sell, I will check the Yes box where the disclosure form asks if work has been done without permits. I will show buyers the before and after pictures. If they don't like the quality of my carpentry, they won't buy it. I'll sleep well at night because I know the quality is better than the city-inspected, city-approved new home currently being framed next to a friend's house across town. I'm using 1950's solid Doug fir reclaimed from several different tear downs at the extra expense of pulling nails. They're using wained, scalloped, knotted Doug fir that wouldn't have made #2 and better grade twenty years ago, but which is now proudly sold in all home improvement centers across our nation. Not their fault of course. We've stripped our forests, there are 300+ million of us and we all want nice comfortable homes. That's the quality of material we have left. I'm as guilty as anyone of my demand resulting in the sucking of raw materials from the ground and the woods. As much as we've done to recycle by shopping on craigslist, we've also spent a lot of time and money at those home improvement centers. But that's a whole 'nother thread....See MoreAdam Bunker
7 years agoAdam Bunker
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7 years agoAdam Bunker
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