The local division of inspection has some news for your GC. You're going to have outlets or wheels on the island or a red tag; you pick.

I just told some potentials that I needed copies of the "as built" drawings of their condo before I could cut their concrete floor to provide power to a proposed island. I'm lowering my risk as far as possible.

I'm checking with my architect. He is on vacation but still responsive.

We had an island with no outlet and no wheels--but it was not affixed to the floor. It was essentially like a piece of furniture. Passed inspection. Ymmv.

My first thought is that you'll need a temporary island.

I was at IKEA a couple nights ago and noted their island (I've recommended it in floor plans before but have never seen it in person.) Something to reconsider.

stensorp

http://m.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/art/60323021/

What about... ditch the high cabinet, scoot the range to the right and turn the island into a peninsula.

That island area is going to be your primary work space. Personally, I'd really want outlets there. I wouldn't want to drag cords across the aisle. Not safe.

I had two of those IKEA islands (Seller's) before we remodeled. They were very useful and looked good. Sold easily on Craigslist. I would look there, and resell it when ready.

While not ideal, a surface mounted conduit to the island wouldn't be the end of the world. I'd choose that over having no island outlets, if your code allows. I'd probably locate it at the top edge of the island & pantry in your plan.

Surface-mounted wireway

Off topic: Katrina - it looks like your designer may not have allowed for 1.5"-2" counter overhangs on the base cabinets. Counter depth on a standard 24" base cabinet is 25.5"-26" and my math shows that you've only got 24" depth on those perimeter cabinets.

Same thing on the island. Unless you were planning a 12" seating overhang, it looks like they didn't plan for a 2 inch overhang on the drawer side nor a 0.5" cover panel on the back of the base cabinets.

My designer made the same mistake and now I'm stuck with about a 39" aisle in my kitchen. Not the end of the world, but absolutely not what I wanted. You might double check that.

We ran into the code issue too. Either it's on wheels and no outlets or fixed in place with outlets. If fixed it must have outlets. To prevent the occurrence of running extension cords across a kitchen I would guess. So my island is a rolling table type island which is what I wanted in the first place. No outlets, but I have a lot of outlets all over the kitchen.

keep in mind that small appliance cords are quite short, so if you use one on a movable island, you'll have to use an extension cord.

Here's a suggestion with a peninsula. I think this should link you to the planner: Katrina Peninsula Plan

You'll end up with a 45" wide aisle if you choose 2" overhangs on your base cabinets. I tried putting the seating on the end so you can face each other at meals rather than lined up; iirc this is your only dining area. If you go this route, don't skimp on filler pieces. Many people have realized after their kitchens are installed that when they open their range, the door hits the pulls on the perpendicular cabinet or vice versa they can't open their drawers because they hit the handle on the range.

Joe is the one who knows for sure, but I think you'll need two legs under the corners of this overhang to support your counter.

Good solution. Depending on where the column is located it could help define the kitchen space.

Have you considered changing your 24" deep island base cabinets to 15s? As planned, it looks like you could end up with a 38" aisle. And with fridge doors protruding into that, it's just not good.

benjesbride I do think the designer forgot to account for the side panels, but we are going with flush countertops, only the overhang of 15" on the island (which I guess will really be 14 or so with the back panels.

Are you planning hardware that protrudes? I think part of the reason for counter overhang is so the counter protrudes the same or a little more than hardware. Also, drips over the counter edge tend to land on the floor rather than down all your drawer fronts.

this info is all just FYI. It's my cautionary tale. At least you are making an informed choice. I have kicked myself over and over for not catching the aisle width oversight on my own drawings. I didn't realize the error until it was too late and too costly to move a wall with gas and electric in it.. I have a counter depth fridge, but with the thickness of the fridge door, the fridge handles and the counter/hardware on the opposite side of the aisle, there's only 32 inches left in front of my fridge.

FWIW, while not ideal, we had a 39" aisle between our French door fridge and the island and it was fine. The only door that opened on that side of the island was the cabinet that housed a step stool.

benjesbride We haven't selected cabinet hardware yet, but I am not excited about the flush hardware I've seen. I think anything will select will protrude somewhat.

I am catching little things on our daily visits. My microwave outlet was too high yesterday. They moved it today. The bidet seat outlet was forgotten but added today. My vanity lights are too close together and too high (8 ft ceilings). It will be fixed on Monday.

I'm glad that we do a walk thru everyday. I certainly would not have noticed the reduced walkway until the cabinets were installed. But given our previous 27.5 aisle, getting to 38" would be great.

The Marsta fronts with the handle cut-outs came out after we bought our Veddinge fronts. theyre a good solution for a flush front, but I think you want gray? If you like the style, I've seen blog posts where people are happy with their painted IKEA fronts.

I do prefer the gray but hubby wants the darker cabinets. I agreed to let him pick out the kitchen cabinets since he's been so great about letting me pick 80% of the materials and finishes. We are almost down to the wire where he has to pick.

Column is framed out with electric.