What kind of filtered water? If I go only by odds and reasoning, the first thing that comes to mind is that you are over-nurturing - which translates to over-watering, even though you say this is not an issue. Salt accumulation in the soil (from fertilizers and irrigation water) is another strong possibility, as is natural abscission (losing leaves) due to a reduction in already low light levels. The moisture meter doesn't work. It measures electrical conductivity - not actual moisture content, so it's actually closer to reliable as an indicator of fertility levels than of moisture levels, although it's really not a reliable tool for measuring either. Test your plants by checking the soil at the drain hole & only water when it feels dry there. Al

Ok..I am going to make a bold statement, not on what I believe, but what I have seen.. Count the too much sun or not enough out.....I have property in the Carribeans, where I have citrus growing under trees that are greener than the ones in the sun all day. The leaves are always yellowy on the ones in the all day hot sun, but produce lots of fruit and flowers. The ones under the trees, produce lot of green leaves, and less fruit and blossom. 1. I would first check the soil and make sure your roots are evenly moist, not wet or dry. If the soil is cruddy, then amend it for the roots sake. It has to be well draining and not compact, or it will affect root function causing all these problems. While your at it, take a gander at the roots. They should be whitish.. 2. I would then check the next most important thing you can do to keep a healthy tree, your PH. If your PH is not on the acid side, no matter how much you fertilze your tree, it will not take up nutrients properly. 3. Next, check for bugs. If it is being attacked, the leaves will fail, turn yellow and drop. Almost always though, the most common casue of problems for citrus is unhappy roots or the wrong PH. Usually the "soil" which causes your roots to fail and not to their job.... As for the sun, too much or to little, I have many that are perfectly healthy here and on the islands that are very healthy in either or. My problems along with my friends in Florida have always been root related due to poor watering habits, or poor soil, or root rot. Attack these three first, then make your next move. Forget the fertilzer for now. Please, make sure your roots look good and are doing their job first, before applying fertilzer. They could become toxic instead of beneficial such as happened to mine in the past. Roots should look white and soil should be well draining..:-) Once you have done this and all is ok, we can come here and suggest some great fertilizing methods for ya..ok It's not to late. Hope this helps you rid one problem at a time. Mike..:-)

Hello Brett, I Do have to cut leaves to prepare my trees for dormancy. Do I really want to do this? Of course not...If I could be in a warmer climate then they would all keep their leaves and then they would naturally go into their dormancy phase. But since the cold air could damage my trees, I have to be ready to put my trees inside. My potted trees (28) have to be brought inside and then placed in one of my back rooms. I would rather put them in a green house, but I don't have that "wish list item" yet!!! LOL... Most of us that push the limits in growing Plumerias, Palms and other tropicals have to sometimes play "Mother Nature"... I have taken this picture for you to see my 25 potted trees that have just been placed in my livingroom soon to be transfered to the back room. If the leaves were still on, I could never have had the space for these guys!! I do this for the convience of space, as well as from keeping the pest down to the mininum. It also keeps me from constantly picking up the fallen leaves. You raise an interesting point about the nutrients being lost...I am sure they are at a disadvantage when they get their haircut, but my trees have never had any problem coming out of dormancy. They are all given ES to wake them up followed by seaweed extract and then the normal fertilizers. I did keep three of my potted trees growing since they have large inflos emerging. So, I will keep everyone informed with their progress. It would be a great experiment to see if they do have any adverse reactions to growth etc... Pictures are my trees in the spring, summer and then trimmed for the winter. Remember that they were cut the same way last year when they were placed inside for the winter... I find this very interesting on how we all prepare our trees for the winter. Especially those of us that grow these trees in colder climates!!!! Take care everyone!! Laura in VB Spring 2010 new cutttings spring/summer 2010 May summer 2010 Summer 2010 Fall trimming 2010 Back in the house fall 2010 This is what I really like to think of during the winter!!! Thanks for looking!!! Think Spring!!!

Ken - my thought exactly. it's definitely alive just working hard to get back to it's original state before it was transplanted. it's not bugging me at all - just wanted to see if i had to be concerned about a dying tree and if i had to do anything about it. i won't be touching it this year but will prune out dead wood next year in the spring if any is observed. thanks for the advice all. ps - i don't think zone 5 is affecting this tree. purchased it from a very reputable nursery in zone 4. also yes - the brown leaves stay on all winter and spring until the new buds leaf out.