Re-rooting a gasteria?
TheSucculentCity
7 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (24)
hablu
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agowantonamara Z8 CenTex
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Gasteria Leaf Propagation
Comments (78)Nah. I've rooted G. croucheri ssp croucheri twice from a single leaf--the first time had a nice amount of meristem, then the second time when I cut the original leaf out (it was too long and in the way) and stuck it back in pumice. Both times it rooted. Somewhere in this thread, hanzrobo mentioned he suspected the meristem ran along the entire length of the leaf. That is, they are actively-dividing cells that you can take advantage of. It takes months and months though. G. batesiana, specifically, is a mind-numbingly slow species, if you have the original one and not a hybrid....See MoreFiddle leaf fig issues: brown spot, root-rot?, re-pot, hopes shot :(
Comments (8)The contrast between "people time" and "plant time" can cause the grower some anxiety and frustration until the grower realizes there's a distinct difference and makes the adjustment by giving in to the idea that a plant has its own ideas about how long it should take to bounce back from adversity. Fortunately, the best form of resolution is usually no more complicated than procuring a few more plants so they can work as a team to satisfy your need to nurture. SOIL: I have perlite so I will add in more of that. Not sure if this is a bad idea, but I do have gravel I could mix in If you decide to include some gravel, use it in the bottom 6" of soil where it will displace the organic fraction of your medium that would normally be filled with water. This is a form of ballast. Don't use it as a layer, just mix it half and half with the bottom 6" of soil where the perched water table (excess water) resides. This in itself will reduce the amount of perched water your soil will hold by 1/2), and my neighbor has bark in her backyard that she said I could have some of to mix in if that's a good option for now? Depends ..... all bark is not created equal. Size and type of bark is very important. BALLAST/WICK: In reading through your posts I understand there are several ways to set these up, but I have an extra terra cotta and plastic pot so I figure this might be easiest? You mentioned covering the drainage hole in this post That reference was to the overturned pot you would be using as a form of ballast such that the rim of the pot would be down and the drain hole would face up. You don't want soil to drop through the drain hole in the ballast pot, so cover it. , but I also noticed [here[(https://www.houzz.com/discussions/dealing-with-water-retentive-soils-dsvw-vd~1415041) you said another option would be to leave the hole open and put soil underneath so that it acts as a wick. That is the pot-in-pot technique where the main pot is nested into another pot and rests on top of the soil in the lower pot. This soil acts as a wick. If the soil in the lower pot is deeper than the ht of the perched water table, ALL perched water should move from the upper pot into the lower pot. For this application, there should be nothing over the drain hole(s) in the upper pot - the one the plant is in. Would you suggest one over another in my situation? I would go for the pot as ballast + the gravel in the bottom 6" of soil as added ballast, and even a wick if you like (in the lower pot). I have two options for pots to put inside as ballasts, but I'm not sure which would be the best option. The terra cotta pot looks like it may not take up enough room to help with limiting PWT, but the plastic one may be too large? The plastic one is great - cover the drain hole in it. Ideally, there would be an inch or so of soil above the ballast pot. Fill in the sides with the 50/50 gravel soil mixture up to the top (former bottom) of the overturned pot - cover it with an inch of soil with no gravel - set the plant on the soil - fill in around the edges. As long as you're taking steps to eliminate perched water, it doesn't matter how large your pot is. You can put your plant in a 55 gallon drum if you like, w/o concern you'll be over-potting. ...... once I repot the plant into the better mixture and add the ballast, should I water the plant again or hold off given the amount of moisture already present in the soil? Plants do best when the soil is evenly damp/moist - never wet/soggy. Skip watering if your entire soil mass is moist. Keep in mind, with the steps you will have taken to eliminate perched water, over-watering shouldn't be a problem, as long as you're reasonable. You're making a soil serviceable that otherwise wouldn't be considered as such by a very large fraction of effectual growers, so it's best to try to minimize potential limitations. Use a 'tell'. If possible - site your plant away from heat sources, but in a warm spot with plenty of light. If possible, use a room humidifier and keep humidity in the 45-55% range. I keep my basement grow room at 55% by using a combination of home-made passive evaporative set-ups and 2 ultrasonic humidifiers. I have a R/O water system, so almost never have to clean the humidifiers. To eliminate potential for bacterial issues, I add an ounce of H202 (hydrogen peroxide) every time I refill the reservoirs. Al...See MoreWhat Not to Do - rooted cuttings v fragile re watering habits
Comments (0)Hello, everyone else probably knows this, but just fyi ... newly rooted cuttings are much more fragile than I realized. My little F. religiosa was absolutely flourishing ... until I forgot to water it. It is still in the shade and I overlooked it. It drooped and I did water it ... but the wilt isn't going away like it does with most plants. It was only a couple of days but I guess that was enough to do permanent damage. Writing to share my experience so it won't happen to you....See MoreWill re-potting get rid of root aphids?
Comments (5)Fungus gnats indicate conditions that are great for them, not for plants and the grower. They like moist and organic environment. Get rid of old soil, it seems to be full of gnats eggs. Your mix needs to be amended. Bagged soils are usually not as great as advertised. Get some pumice if available, or a bag of perlite. It is best to sift it to get rid of dust and smallest particles. Mix it with the soil in 1:1 ratio. You could add some grit too, size approx. same as sifted perlite/pumice. If adding it, mix them in 1:1:1 ratio. That will improve drainage and water retention. Most 'helpful' tips on net advise to check just top 2" or so, but that is not enough if soil retains water, as you found out. Use a bamboo/wooden skewer or chopstick or thin stick of wood and check deep into the pot. Water and let excess to drain out before setting on a saucer. No standing water and plant debris. The trap will help to catch the flies, but does nothing to eliminate eggs-larvae. Hopefully you can catch them before they deposit more eggs in your new mix...I would wait at least 2-3 days after disposing of old soil before making a new mix and potting the plant. It will not die if out of soil, even for many days. And make sure you get rid of old soil from the root ball, even if it needs to be rinsed. Let air dry in shady spot before potting again. ETA: if you have aphids on top of fg, you need to treat for aphids too....See MoreTheSucculentCity
7 years agoPagan
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoTheSucculentCity
7 years agoLaurie (8A)
7 years agostanofh 10a Hayward,Ca S.F. bay area
7 years agoPagan
7 years agoLaurie (8A)
7 years agoLaurie (8A)
7 years agolmontestella
7 years agoLaurie (8A)
7 years agoLaurie (8A)
7 years agogarrett222
7 years agoteresaraylene1960
5 years agocactusmcharris, interior BC Z4/5
5 years agoKaren S. (7b, NYC)
5 years agocactusmcharris, interior BC Z4/5
5 years agoKaren S. (7b, NYC)
5 years agocactusmcharris, interior BC Z4/5
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoteresaraylene1960
5 years agoLea
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agogardengems
5 years ago
Related Stories
TRADITIONAL ARCHITECTURERoots of Style: Château Architecture Strides Through a Century
Live like a lord with design details that recall French estates of old, even if they're scaled down and updated for today
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESThe Beauty of Bare-Root Plants
Plant dormant trees and shrubs in fall using the easy, affordable bare-root method and enjoy beautiful results in spring
Full StoryLIFETracing the Deep Roots of Design
Are our design choices hardwired? Consider the lasting appeal of forms from the hunter-gatherer life
Full StoryARCHITECTURERoots of Style: See What Defines a Craftsman Home
Charming features and intimate proportions have made Craftsman houses an American favorite. See their common details and variations
Full StoryARCHITECTURERoots of Style: Do You Live in a Minimalist Traditional House?
Cottages, bungalows, farmhouses ... whatever you call them, houses in this style share several characteristics. See how many your house has
Full StoryARCHITECTURERoots of Style: Midcentury Modern Design
Midcentury modern still charms with its linear forms and low-sloping roofs. Appreciate it now — such simplicity can be hard to replicate
Full StoryROOTS OF STYLERoots of Style: The Indelible Charm of American Tudors
Rich details and an intimate scale give this English-inspired architectural style memorable character and flexibilty
Full StoryARCHITECTURERoots of Style: Where Did Your House Get Its Look?
Explore the role of architectural fashions in current designs through 5 home styles that bridge past and present
Full StoryTRADITIONAL ARCHITECTURERoots of Style: Georgian Homes Offer Familiarity Through the Ages
Americans have been embracing this interpretation of classical architecture since the 1700s. Does your home show off any Georgian details?
Full StoryROOTS OF STYLERoots of Style: The Birth of Modern Architecture
Learn how Prairie, Craftsman, art deco and other styles of the early 20th century came to influence architecture today
Full Story
wantonamara Z8 CenTex