I don't know about your municipality, but I can tell you I would never get a certificate of occupancy or compliance with a step in a doorway. Your room is going to be colder when you change the window to the french door. I would consult with a plumber and take advice on the length of baseboard recommended for the room. Maybe he can go around a corner.

If it were me I'd go with 3 sections slightly less than 12' with an 8' parting board between them. A deck all spliced together doesn't look good imo, especially an ipe deck.

Its for appearance,stagered joints will help structural some what. J

Current joists are parallel to house. Would be changing to short joists if I change them. Only outer frame would need to be strong to support the new joists. Main deck (roughly square 22'x30' on steep hillside) Construction was definitely substandard. A portion about 1 ft off the ground collapsed. It had been attached to the side of the garage with regular nails. Redid frame as a free standing deck with its own footings and posts(notched top of posts and carriage bolts/lag screws used.) Based on a 2x8 frame with 2x10s on taller part. Had thought of replacing diagonal boards on main deck with boards perpendicular to rafters, but on further research, deck lacks any bracing against twisting. Posts are simple vertical posts with no triangular braces and no diagonal cross pieces. My understanding is that this is Ok only if flooring is diagonal since flooring provides the cross bracing. So easiest to keep main deck diagonal. Two narrower decks-12 feet high) Much more sturdy. Tied into house with bolts and based on 2x10 frame and rafters. Uses 2 2x10s surrounding 6x6 posts, notched tops about 12 feet high at outer edge. House walls jut out between them providing side support(the larger supported on two sides, the smallest on 3 sides) Looking at it more closely, if I proceed with changing direction, I am leaning toward blocking only. Too much work redoing larger beams. Have a lot of leftover short pieces of 2x8s from fixing lower deck-so if cut to length, could use here-just need to buy hangers and nails. Original deck boards were cedar, painted with regular paint (which peeled badly) to try and cover extensive rot. Replacing this extensive rot is what is making me redo the deck. Another issue is a long staircase. Currently not to code for a variety of reasons. Uses 3 16 foot 2x12 stringers supported at both ends only(against deck and ground). Steps 9" deep. Needs to drop 12'8" on a horizontal run of 12'. Open steps with over 4" gap between steps. Rotting, not to code stair rail. Give the size, this will be a challenge to put up, particularly if use a heavy wood like IPE for the stringers(also expensive). Would be nice to have longer run, but run extends to end of concrete area in lower level. Would also be nice to have rail slightly further than bottom step, but size of space makes things difficult. Changing board orientation would allow using short(cheaper boards). Going diagonal will require using 10' boards for same segment. Can cut waste some by using 40 degree angle as opposed to 45 degree(stronger than 45 degree since less effective span). Biggest problem is still delivery logistics. I can not unload the amount of wood needed myself. I have someone who will come in and help with install, but can not be available for a delivery without a bulletproof delivery date right at the start of install(flying over to visit). Driveway will not support a tractor trailer turning around. Do not have any equipment heavier than a lawn tractor and flat pull cart so can not move bundles around. Will need to break bundles to move boards. Have never used fork lift and even if I rented one, would need to be sure delivery is on date I rented it. (would need to be delivered--I do not have a trailer or even hitch to pick up with). Either I have to order boards in smaller quantities or order from a supplier that brings along a miniforklift on the truck to move bundles to end of driveway.