It's probably "Rust". Certain types of trees are more prone to it than others. The tree looks bad but it doesn't kill it. The infected leaves will eventually fall off. Rust usually affects my trees in the Fall. There is something you can spray on it but for the life of me I can't think of what it's called. If you ask at the garden section at Lowe's I'm sure they will know what it is.

Rick, If the yellow leafs are at the top of the tree, most times if it is a watering problem, that would be from the lack of water, on the other hand, if the yellowing is on the lower part of the tree, it could be a sign of OVER WATERING That is not all the things that could cause that, but it is a starting point. Cecil

Sorry, I should have been more clear. I planted it in the ground right after I purchased it. Like most new fruit tree growers, I am learning from the school of hard knocks. It is probably 3 to 4 feet tall with 4 or 5 young figs on it and several nice leaves. Just worried as the yellow then brown effect has gone up the plant to effect about 3 large leaves and given the young nature of the tree, I am worried this trend will continue. I am growning an odd affinity for my fruit trees! We have a very good local nursery and I guess I had either gotten the advice or misunderstood the advice and I planted in direct sunlight (he did warn me to cover the roots with pine straw to help with heat on the roots). It has been very very hot up here in the panhandle of Florida(after we had record rainfall for June). I feel like I planted it towards the end of the rainfall, so I believe heat is the issue at hand. (my satsumas and meyer lemons are living it up, but the celeste fig does seem stressed.) Al, thanks for the great lesson on 5:1:1 soil. I have made some good batches of that for my container plants and it looks and feels fantastic, plants seem to really be taking to it and drainage is outstanding. Probably should have started the fig tree out in a pot until I learn something. Thanks for all the replies. Any advice on helping the plant out after I made the mistake of planting it in direct sunlight?

That's a physiological issue that occurs when your plant takes up water from the soil with dissolved minerals (salts) in it. Some of that water, with salt dissolved in it, makes it to the surface of the leaf. When the water evaporates, it leaves behind the salt it contains as a little white powdery dot. This is also harmless, but could be a signal that the level of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil is creeping upward. If you witness it, you might try flushing the soil thoroughly - especially if you've been watering in small sips so the plant doesn't have to deal with soil saturation. That particular way of watering ensures that all salts from your tapwater and fertilizer solutions remain in the soil where they can create quite a bit of mischief. The salt deposits on the leaves will rub right off with a damp cloth or paper towel. If the dots don't wipe off, suspect another physiological issue called oedema. Oedema Oedema is a physiological disorder that can affect all plants. It occurs when the plant takes up more water than it can rid itself of via the process of transpiration. The word itself means 'swelling', which is usually the first symptom, and comes in the form of pale blisters or water-filled bumps on foliage. Under a variety of circumstances/cultural conditions, a plant's internal water pressure (turgidity) can become so high that some leaf cells rupture and leak their contents into inter-cellular spaces in leaf tissue, creating wet or weepy areas. Symptoms vary by plant, but as the malady progresses, areas of the leaf turn yellow, brown, brown with reddish overtones or even black, with older damage appearing as corky/ scaly/ ridged patches, or wart/gall-like bumpy growth. Symptoms are seen more frequently in plants that are fleshy, are usually more pronounced on the underside of leaves, and older/lower leaves are more likely to be affected than younger/upper leaves. Oedema is most common in houseplants during the winter/early spring months, is driven primarily by excessive water retention in the soil, and can be intensified via several additional cultural influences. Cool temperatures, high humidity levels, low light conditions, or partial defoliation can individually or collectively act to intensify the problem, as can anything else that slows transpiration. Nutritional deficiencies of Ca and Mg are also known contributors to the malady. Some things that can help you prevent oedema: * Increase light levels and temperature * Monitor water needs carefully – avoid over-watering. I'd heartily recommend a soil with drainage so sharp (fast) that when you to water to beyond the saturation point you needn't worry about prolonged periods of soil saturation wrecking root health/function. Your soil choice should be a key that unlocks the solutions to many potential problems. * Avoid misting or getting water on foliage. It slows transpiration and increases turgidity. * Water as soon as you get up in the AM. When stomata close in preparation for the dark cycle, turgidity builds. If you water early in the day, it gives the plant an opportunity to remove (for its own needs) some of the excess water in the soil. * Put a fan in the room or otherwise increase air flow/circulation. Avoid over-crowding your plants. Al