@dleverette When making 5:1:1 mix, I break-up the compressed chunks of peat so they pass through a 1/2" screen. I toss any sticks and such on top of the raised beds where they break down with time. Here's a tip you'll find very helpful. For large batches of 5:1:1, pour the bark onto a tarp laid on a flat surface, then wet the bark a bit. Then, add the screened peat and spread it over the bark. Add your lime on top of the peat, then put down the perlite and wet that. The trick is to use just enough water to make the mix damp when it's thoroughly mixed. Both peat and pine bark are hydrophobic (water repellent) when allowed to dry below about 20% of their water holding ability. This makes a dry 5:1:1 mix extremely difficult to rewet if you don't moisten it when you make it. The moisture in the mix diffuses, moistening the bark/ peat and "breaking" its tendency to repel water. Within 15-30 minutes of making the mix you can pot plants and water them in thoroughly w/o the frustration associated with trying to rehydrate a dry soil. FWIW, I don't use coir. As many times as I've tried it and cone comparative experiments, I've always had problems or been dissatisfied with the results. You might be interested in a comparison between peat and coir I wrote several years back: Peat vs. Coir Sphagnum peat and coir have nearly identical water retention curves. They both retain about 90-95% of their volume in water at saturation and release it over approximately the same curve until they both lock water up so tightly it's unavailable for plant uptake at about 30-33% saturation. Coir actually has less loft than sphagnum peat, and therefore, less aeration. Because of this propensity, coir should be used in mixes at lower %s than peat. Because of the tendency to compact, in the greenhouse industry coir is primarily used in containers in sub-irrigation (bottom-watering) situations. Many sources produce coir that is high in soluble salts, so this can also be an issue. Using coir as the primary component of container media virtually eliminates lime or dolomitic lime as a possible Ca source because of coir's high pH (6+). Gypsum should be used as a Ca source, which eliminates coir's low S content. All coir products are very high in K, very low in Ca, and have a potentially high Mn content, which can interfere with the uptake of Fe. Several studies have also shown that the significant presence of phenolic allelochemicals in fresh coir can be very problematic for a high % of plants, causing poor growth and reduced yields. I haven't tested coir thoroughly, but I have done some testing of CHCs (coconut husk chips) with some loose controls in place. After very thoroughly leaching and rinsing the chips, I made a 5:1:1 soil of pine bark:peat:perlite (which I know to be very productive) and a 5:1:1 mix of CHCs:peat:perlite. I planted 6 cuttings of snapdragon and 6 cuttings of Coleus (each from the same plant to help reduce genetic influences) in containers (same size/shape) of the different soils. I added dolomitic lime to the bark soil and gypsum to the CHC soil. After the cuttings struck, I eliminated all but the three strongest in each of the 4 containers. I watered each container with a weak solution of MG 12-4-8 with STEM added at each watering, and watered on an 'as needed basis', not on a schedule. The only difference in the fertilizer regimen was the fact that I included a small amount of MgSO4 (Epsom salts) to provide MG (the dolomitic lime in the bark soil contained the MG, while the gypsum (CaSO4) in the CHC soil did not. This difference was necessary because or the high pH of CHCs and coir.) for the CHC soil. The results were startling. In both cases, the cuttings grown in the CHC's exhibited < 1/2 the biomass at summers end as the plants in the bark mix. I just find it very difficult for a solid case to be made (besides "It works for me") for the use of coir or CHC's. They're more expensive and more difficult to use effectively. The fact that some believe peat is in short supply (no where near true, btw) is easily offset by the effect of the carbon footprint of coir in its trek to the US from Sri Lanka or other exotic locales. That's the view from here. YMMV Coir Study: https://sites.google.com/site/plantandsoildigest/usu-crop-physiology-laboratory/coconut-coir-studies Al

If you don't care too much about looks, get some of the 18 gallon Rubbermaid totes, drill some drainage holes in the bottom, and then cut the middle out of the lid with a box knife, and put the lid on the container (makes it more rigid) and you have a nice big planter for about $6. I grew eggplant and indet. tomatoes in these last year, and they did well. However, I put 2 eggplants in one container, and would do 1 per container if I did it over again. The seedlings got off to a bad start, so I don't know if the container had anything to do with their poor production or not, but I digress. Lots of people grow toms and eggplant in 5-gallon buckets.

From what I've read, yellow squash and patty pans aren't viney - although they do get very big leafed, and fairly tall (3 feet-ish, I think.) Mainly writing you about another experience of trail and error (BIG error.) Give the container and plants as much open space as possible. (Suggesting, also not to over crowd the non-viners, at least.) We grew yellow squash a couple of years ago, but only got a couple, because of Powdery Mildew. Apparently, the parasite is quite common for squashes. Keep your eyes open for it on the leaves. It looks like what it is - powdery and mildewy. lol Shows up, supposedly when not much rain, but lots of sun, but another - unrelated - plant of mine is already showing her annual signs, and it's been raining 5 outta 7 days per week since early April around here. If caught in time, it's a lot of work, but controllable. Let it go, and the Mildew kills the squash.

Ania You have enough room for at least three or four squash root systems, but you need to take squash plant leaf-spread into account. I grow squash plants in five gallon buckets, and look at how large they are, just starting to fruit. I had to separate the containers by 3-4 feet so the plants wouldn't overrun each other. The variety is Spacemaster Hybrid Zucchini, supposed to be relatively small. Well, its leaves are larger than dinnerplates! I almost think you'd be better off to put one of your viners in the container and give it support to climb. At least the plant would be headed somewhere other than its neighbor! But see what others say. I'm always surprised at the sheer spread of squash plants, even when you try to get varieties that are supposed to be on the small side!