It is still June, so not so bad, it is going to be much worse later. From the list of repeat blooming roses that I don't spray these are the winners so far. Knock out - healthy Darlow's Enigma - healthy Home Run -healthy Puerto Rico -15 % leaf loss Ducher -15% leaf loss Arethusa -10 % leaf loss Earth Song -15% leaf loss Quitness - 10% leaf loss New Dawn - less then 10% Awakening -less then 10% Lyda -20% Belinda's Dream -30% Perle d'Or -30% Cecille Brunner -30% Marie Pavie- 40% Illusion -10% Quadra - 5-10% White Cup- 15% Carefree Sunshine -less then 10% In my sister's no spray garden close to me Dublin Bay- 10% Dortmund -10-15% Knock out -healthy Colette -30% McCartney Rose - 20% I also have plenty of healthy once bloomers and species that I never spray, too many to list now. If anybody interested, I can always share with them. I do spray my Austins, Bourbons and moderns. They would be 100% bald by now w/o spray. I see it in my sisters organic garden. Good culture, plenty of sun and defoliated roses :( I am trying to get rid of roses that require spraying, but it is so difficult to part with some of them (Lady Hillingdon, Yolande de Aragon, Deuil de Dr Reynaud, Abraham Darby, etc). They all are huge and beautiful. I am givivng away more and more of these to good homes. Olga

I can only tell you what I do, so don't take it as being a definative answer. I have had a rust problem amd bit the bullet (or maybe its I took a bullet in $$$) based on the recommendations of a commercial operation in southheast North Carolina (since I spent a few hours with them a couple of years ago). I've since been told that the same fungicides work for leaf streak. However, Mancozeb is not so terribly expensive and is a contact killer for the rust spores, so it should kill-on-contact for leaf streak fungus too. This was not among the original recommendations, however. Those were to alternate between two different strobulines (the ones that are made out of gold or something equally expensive), Compass and Strike. I was later told by a very knowledgeable lady in Canada that you should not atlernate between two of these chemicals because resistance can be acquired, and once it is acquired, it will block all strobulins. So this year's plan is to rotate three - Mancozeb, Strike, and Compass. For me (and a University of Gerogia study agreed!!) one of the two strobulins really does not control rust very well while the other is much better, so I might eliminate the poorer one. I just can't remember which one it is at the minute. Note that there are everal different types of strobulins, but the one in Heritage was the most effective in the UGA study. I've attached the link to their PowerPoint presentation. Go through it until you find their conclusions and recommendations. Their recommendation is to use one of the sort-of systemic ones that works and alternate that with Mancozeb. That should take care of the leaf streak and any runs that gets blow in by the wind. For rust, you have to continue this all season if you don't it to show up once the weather breaks - - for us that is mid-to-late September I am assuming that since this works for rust, it will work for leaf streak funguds too. Larry Here is a link that might be useful: Pathway to UGA Rust Study

Intersting, ethnobothany...;-) Indeed the world loves you or strikes back with every heart beat- but that's only one way to put it. I even prefer Jiddu Krishnamurti's view of human relationships, where he indeed says: >>...now if I use that knowledge in my relationship with you, another human being, I am bringing about a barrier, a division between you and me, namely the observer. That is, knowledge, in relationship, in human relationship, is DESTRUCTIVE. I'm not sure though if georgeiii is seeing human relationships and the related realm from such perspective, though. I may be wrong, but I doubt as well that there are many other forum members that care about such rather unusual philosophical and sociological perspectives. I believe they primarily want there screwed-up setups and PH to improve and get sound and safe LOL. In half a century of existence, (how philosophical does that sounds anyway LOL) I've learned only a few things that I am certain of. And one of those most certainly is: people will only believe what they want to believe, only accept what they are ready to, only listen to what and to whomever they chose to (no mater if it's a genius or some lunatic) as well. No matter how "you" put it, no matter if it's nicely said or bluntly shouted at their face, true or false, most honest you can get it or an infamous lie, most objectively described or just a very personal impression. A bit like with plant physiology, people "take only up" what they like to hear and grab at that moment in time and with their very own attitude and state of mind. That is why I stick with a more simplified philosophy since a while: I primary care what I have to say and what's actually on my mind, not anymore what others may or may not think of it. In fact I still may try to not offend or compromise them intentionally, but I actually cannot anticipate what others may like or not like, understand or not - hence accept or reject. Sooner or later you find out where the more adventurous spots, the "no go places" and the play safe areas are. If it doesn't bring you at your goal, simply turn to an opportunist or an hypocrite, or even better, a unlucky combination of both - and there you go and it works like a charm until you wake up from that bad dream too. Some people evolve by trying them one after the other, but I recommend to drop the "freaky douche attitude" though, I believe that's the worst call ever! LOL

Carol (Rosecanadian): There are many species of worms, and I hope your white worm is not what's stated on-line: "White worm is undoubtedly the most dangerous pest for the simple reason that there is no way of knowing it's there. White worms attack the roots of the rose bush until it dies. A good way to keep them away is by keeping the soil well fertilized." I agree with the fertilizing part, esp. giving roses enough alkaline minerals: calcium & potassium. Worm-infestation is worst in acidic soil and heavy rain that leach out minerals, making leaves thinner & curl up & more susceptible to pests. Below link states that there are 3 species of rose slugs: "Rose sawfly: Adult sawflies emerge in early spring and lay their eggs on the underside of host plant leaves. Larvae appear several weeks later, feed on soft leaf tissue for about a month, and then drop into the soil to pupate. European roseslug sawfly (Endelomyia aethiops) produces only one generation per year, but another related species, the bristly roseslug sawfly (Cladius difformis), can produce two to six generations per year. A third species, the curled roseslug sawfly (Allantus cinctus) generally produces two generations per year. The three species are all similar in color (light green), but are easily distinguished: bristly roseslug sawflies have bristle-like hairs covering the body, and curled roseslug sawflies curl up the body when at rest." http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/pests-and-problems/insects/sawflies/rose-and-pear-slugs-sawflies.aspx Picture below is from above link: