Yes Laura, several are going to be planted this week before the real heat hits. The lovely thing about wrapping cuttings is, you use hard wood instead of the new, soft flowering wood. The only soft growth you have to "protect" is what is generated after the cutting roots. Since that is accomplished in the open instead of under cover, it's already hardened off, conditioned for whatever the weather throws at it. The ones to be planted definitely have sufficient roots to go in to the ground now, and should continue thriving even when the high heat hits. Ones like the illustrated Lamarque will continue being held in pots until their root systems are as well developed. The two factors you have to be concerned about when planting newly propagated plants are whether their root development is enough to support them on their own; and whether the new growth is too soft, too tender to handle direct sun, heat and any wind without frying. If the plants have been grown under cover, whether that cover is a green house, bags or plastic bottles, they may be very soft, requiring hardening off, acclimating them to the hotter, drier, brighter conditions being out in the open require. Propagating out in the open eliminates the second issue. Growing them in increasingly larger pots, in a warm, sunny spot, in good soil with consistent nutrition and preventing them from flowering, helps accomplish the first more quickly. There really is no difference between these plants and "bands", except none of these have been held for months (or longer) in pots which are too small to prevent them from continuing to mature. A nursery can't do that. They must maintain them in a size economically suitable for shipping, and which also permits them to maintain a large number of plants in a relatively smaller area. Bands permit all of that. Gallons can at least triple that room and shipping. I use gallons as I'm not raising as many plants and none of them are to be shipped anywhere. Amerique, "winter protection" where I am consists of pruning any plant mass which will act as a "sail" in the higher winds we can get with any winter storms. If we are to receive any rain, it will come in "winter". It doesn't freeze sufficiently here to damage any roses. If any roses (and most other plants) are to be transplanted, moved, "winter" is when it's best here to do it. I can't give you dates for your climate when separating them would be safest, but you should be able to safely accomplish that any time the weather isn't so hot that any root disturbance will cause them to collapse. If you still have periods of rain expected, particularly a period when you should expect it to last several days, I'd think separating them just before the rain starts and putting the pots where they will benefit from being rained on and receive primarily morning sun (if there is any) would be most suitable. Otherwise, separating them when the weather is suitable for transplanting established plants or planting bare roots would be best. I hope it helps. Kim

overproduction is called a mast year : https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffcm&q=mast+year&ia=web it can be.. but not always... is the year AFTER some weather event... very cold winter... drought.. etc .. as the flowers bloom before the drought .... it wouldnt be adverse to the nut production the year of teh drought .. inartful english there.. hope you can figure what i mean ... https://duckduckgo.com/?q=oak+flowers&t=ffcm&iax=images&ia=images perhaps mary is not mowing her grass often enough ... perhaps dont wait until the grass is tall enough.. and just keep mowing the trees .. if you keep cutting off the leaves.. soon or later.. the tree will use up stored energy..and die ... ken

I find when I plant small bare root trees, the original soil often DOESN'T fill the holes. When I plant a tree I often have to remove a couple big rocks, and the top couple inches may be a dense mat of grass/sod. ==>>> i always took soil from the veg garden ... to back fill holes... throwing the sod in a compost heap.. that would break down the clumps by fall.. to replenish the veg garden ... or i just had a hole out behind the garage ... the thought that no where on your property.. could you steal some soil to properly fill a hole.. is NOT THINKING OUTSIDE THE BOX ... come on peeps ... aeron.. no your trees are not dead.. and there is no reason you can replant them soon ... you make it sound that now that its done.. you cant call a REDO ... fix em dude.. no excuses .. ken

Great, you may or may not have handled the root systems of these trees properly, but that's very unlikely to have anything to do with these leaf anomalies. Winding, girdling roots are an extremely important class of tree performance problems, but they come on later, and very gradually, as the main trunk gets squeezed by the increasing girth of one or more of these poorly-oriented roots. You're seeing something which is both much more temporary and likely much less damaging in the long run. The two conditions you show us are both either fungal, bacterial, abiotic, or a combo of all three, but at this point in the growing season, those leaves have done their work for the year and no heroic efforts should be taken to "cure" this problem, such as it is. To answer your question immediately above, trees (and all plants) do indeed often improve on their own, simply by dint of their root systems enlarging and taking in more nutrients in the soil solution. I can't tell you how many times I've seen newly-planted trees exhibit poor foliage color, only to "magically" get better on their own, the only magic involved being the trees' own growth. +o