I don't know what some of these post are talking about. A flea beetle is the size of a pin head, and they do not fly. However a can jump quite a distance for there size. Make sure there is no weeds or other vegetation around the plant. If you put down black plastic in a row and plant the eggplant through the plastic, that will help. One thing you can try is the sticky goo I use for the apple maggot fly. Use a piece of bright yellow plastic card covered with the goo. They are attracted to the color and will get stuck in the in the goo. Depending on the number of beetle, you might have to replace the card or clean it. Vegetable oil is use as a solvent for the goo and then some soap and water. reapply the goo. I would use a piece a card 4" x 6" at each plant.

From the Ohio State University: "Because of resistance problems, chemicals alone are no longer adequate for control of Colorado potato beetle. Infestations should be prevented by using appropriate cultural practices." "Hand-picking can effectively control the Colorado potato beetle in small plantings. Inspect plants once or twice per week, remove all larvae and adult beetles, drop them into a container of soapy water, then dispose. Dislodge beetles by lightly beating plants with a broom; hold a snow shovel under plants to catch the dislodged beetles. Eggs can be crushed by hand. A vacuum cleaner can be used to remove beetles from young plants. Lightweight row covers can be placed over plants as a barrier to prevent adult beetles from colonizing the plants." "Several natural enemies of the Colorado potato beetle can help reduce the pest population, but none has yet been found that alone can control this pest. Potato beetle eggs and larvae are preyed on by two kind of stink bugs: the spined soldier bug and the two-spotted stink bug. Ladybird beetles ("ladybugs") feed on eggs of potato beetles, and a parasitic fly and a fungus can attack potato beetles. Ladybird beetles also feed on pollen so they can be attracted to gardens with many pollen-producing plants. Natural enemies may be protected by use of microbial insecticides that are toxic to the Colorado potato beetle but not toxic to the beneficial insects mentioned above." "A relatively new group of insecticides is made from naturally-occurring bacteria that cause certain kinds of insects to become sick and die. One type of bacteria called B.t. or Bacillus thuringiensis, varieties san diego and tenebrionis, has been developed for control of Colorado potato beetle larvae. The bacteria must be eaten by larvae. These products are slower acting than conventional insecticides; larvae may not die until 4 to 5 days after treatment, although they are too sick to feed during that time. B.t. must be applied as a spray when eggs are just starting to hatch. B.t. is more effective at warmer than at cooler temperatures because insects feed faster as temperature increases. An advantage of the B.t. products is that they are not toxic to natural enemies of the potato beetle. Representative brand names and producers: Colorado Potato Beetle Attack (Ringer), B.t. Leaf Beetle Attack (Safer), Colorado Potato Beetle Beater (Bomide), Colorado Potato Beetle Pre-Adult Control (Dragon), M-One and M-Trak (Mycogen)." More info below. Sue Here is a link that might be useful: Colorado potato beetle control

Well, I went out and got one and measured it. He (or she? ;) ) came out at a little less than a 1/4 inch. It looked a good bit like the picture, except the bronze stripe is much less prominent on this guy, not even noticeable at first glance, and it goes all around the abdomen. Hmm...I might be able to get a picture up on Sunday or Monday. I have to try to borrow a friend's camera. I guess we might have to postpone judgement until then.

what are they doing to the buds??? how big are they??? .. where are you ??? please dont use any more chems until you get an ID ... a pic would sure help ... ken