Taking excellent care of a lawn is pretty easy. In fact it is so easy that I'm surprised the lawn fertilizer companies stay in business. You have to do all the heavy lifting anyway. You have to water it and mow it once a week. All they do is fertilize. Oh and they apply herbicide to everyone regardless of whether they need it. I suspect your old lawn was not fun to walk on because it was a hodge podge of different grasses, some of which made it uncomfortable. The solution to that is to just use the modern improved varieties of grasses. Do you have shade in the new yard? Any mature trees? Any immature trees that will eventually shade the yard? The shade will affect which grass type you select. The fescue varieties will do well in shade, but the Kentucky bluegrass varieties must have full sun. For your lawn, now is the time to plan to renovate it. Late next month is the time to act. Basically you'll need to kill what's there, kill it again, remove what's there, level things if you have high and low spots (NO ROTOTILLING), apply seed, roll seed, water lightly 3x per day for 3 weeks. After you have 80% germination, you can start to back off on the watering frequency until you are watering once every 2-3 weeks. That might not happen until Halloween, but you have to make it happen. By deep watering on an infrequent basis the grass develops deep, drought resistant roots. If your grass develops a dense canopy this fall, then you should not have a weed problem next spring. Scott's scares everyone into thinking they need a preemergent herbicide, but I never use one. If I get a couple weeds it's a lot easier to spot treat them when I can see them rather than blanketing the yard with chemicals. Here are the basics of lawn care. This may or may not be the way you did it at your old house, but this works and can get you most of the way to a 'lawn of the month' yard. Basics of Lawn Care After reading numerous books and magazines on lawn care, caring for lawns at eight houses over the years, and reading numerous forums where real people write in to discuss their successes and failures, I have decided to side with the real people and dispense with the book and magazine authors. I don't know what star their planet rotates around but it's not mine. With that in mind, here is the collected wisdom of the Internet savvy homeowners and lawn care professionals summarized in a few words. If you follow the advice here you will have conquered at least 50% of all lawn problems. Once you have these three elements mastered, then you can worry about weeds (if you have any), dog spots, and striping your lawn. But if you are not doing these three things, they will be the first three things suggested for you to correct. Watering Water deeply and infrequently. Deeply means at least an inch in every zone, all at once. Infrequently means monthly during the cool months and no more than weekly during the hottest part of summer. Do not spread this out and water for 10 minutes every day. If your grass looks dry before the month/week is up, water longer next time. If that does not work, then you might have to water more than once per week during the summer's hottest period. Deep watering grows deep, drought resistant roots. Infrequent watering allows the top layer of soil to dry completely which kills off many shallow rooted weeds. You will have to learn to judge when to water your own lawn. If you live in El Paso your watering will be different than if you live in Vermont. Adjust your watering to your type of grass, temperature, humidity, wind, and soil type. It is worth noting that this technique is used successfully by professionals in Phoenix, so...just sayin.' The other factors make a difference. If you normally water 1 inch per week and you get 1/2 inch of rain, then adjust and water only 1/2 inch that week. Mowing Every week mulch mow at the highest setting on your mower. Most grasses are the most dense when mowed tall. However, bermuda, centipede, and bent grasses will become the most dense when they are mowed at the lowest setting on your mower. In fact there are special mowers that can mow these grasses down to 1/16 inch. Dense grass shades out weeds, keeps the soil cooler, and uses less water than thin grass. Tall grass can feed the deep roots you developed in #1 above. Tall grass does not grow faster than short grass nor does it look shaggy sooner. Once all your grass is at the same height, tall grass just looks plush. Fertilizing Fertilize regularly. I fertilize 5 times per year using organic fertilizer. Which fertilizer you use is much less important than numbers 1 and 2 above. Follow the directions on the bag and do not overdo it. For chemical fertilizers, too little is better than too much. For organic fertilizers, too much is better than too little*. At this point you do not have to worry about weed and feed products - remember at this point you are just trying to grow grass, not perfect it. Besides once you are doing these three things correctly, your weed problems should go away without herbicide. * This used to read, "Too little is better than too much." Recent test results show that you cannot get too much organic fertilizer unless you bury the grass in it.

First, are they in full sun? Water lettuce do not lke full sun. That will make them turn yellow. Also, they might turn yellow if there are not enough nutrients in the water. You can float them in a bucket of Miracle Grow or similar ferilizer to help perk them up. If that is not the problem, then even if the parent plants never look that good, their offspring should be perfectly normal. They multiply like crazy, so you will eventually end up with more than you even want or need, ;-)

I live in Wisconsin, and I can post pictures when I get home tonight. If I've posted in the wrong forum, I apologize; I didn't realize there was a forum specific to ground cover. I can move the post.

Facing south in Atlanta means plenty of sunlight so, easiest maintenance is let the grass grow and mow it -- unless, of course, the roots of the trees are exposed. Then pine straw. Except ... IF people park alongside the sidewalk, then you might put one large paver stone between each pair of trees buried so only its top is visible, enabling it to be used as a stepping stone, thus letting whatever you do plant in the rest of the space grow. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Oldcastle-Fulton-13-3-4-in-x-11-7-8-in-Tan-Hexagon-Patio-Stone/3048689 I'm a bit north of you in Georgia (howdy, neighbor) and I find Lirope grows really well for me. Be careful to not put soil against the tree trunks -- that usually eventually kills them.