From my experience with Southmoon it doesn't require near as many chill hours as stated. I've had great fruit set at 250 chill hours last year. If I had to start all over I would grow 5 low chill varieties. Emerald for shear volume of good fruit and it's very low chill, almost evergreen in my location. Sweetcrisp because the fruit is hands down the best overall. Snowchaser for it's out standing flavor and very early crop. Springhigh for a very early crop and high quality fruit. Jewel for volume and great flavor. I guess I would throw in Sunshine Blue as well. The only knock I can see on that variety is it's a pain to prune cause it can over produce fruit buds in a bad way and it's very twiggy. That being said, if pruned right it is a top notch flavored berry IMO but you don't get a bunch of fruit and it's usually small. As far as rooting cuttings, all of the above varieties except Sunshine Blue are patented so it's illegal to do. If you do, don't tell anyone about it!;) One way that I can think of to creat a humid micro climate for them would be a large kids pool with several inches of water. Place bricks or something in it to keep the bottoms of the pots out of the water and place them in the pool on the brickes. Sounds kinda getto but it works. The water evaporating will provide enough humidity in the leaf canopy to keep them happy along with shade for the brutal sun in your area.

sharon: That's not a very grower friendly looking climate. Worse than here at 4500ft and we have spring freeze injury most years. Things in Duncan are going to be pushed into bloom by warm spring days and then get frozen at night. My suggestions for fruiting plants would be jujube, pomegranate, and possibly persimmon. You could grow stone fruit but without a shelter February to April freezes would get you most years If there is a grapefruit in Clifton (3500ft elev) it must be up on a hillside. Hillsides or terraces above the valley are the best spots in AZ. At night cold air drains to the low spots. Below is a comparison of Jerome AZ to Duncan. Jerome sets on a mountain at about 5200ft elev over in central AZ. Jerome is colder day and night all year long due to higher elevation. But check out the record lows. Jerome has a two month longer growing season because of it's superb air drainage Personally I'd get out of a drunken town in AZ ASAP. Or at least never drive at night. Rural NM and AZ have a bad drinking issue. Here is a link that might be useful: Ducan vs Jerome AZ climate

This spring I'm trying a selection of the early tomatoes that are promoted as cool-tolerant with the ability to set fruit at lower temperatures. (I haven't found anybody making those claims for peppers, though. LOL) The varieties I have growing outside now are listed below, along with and my notes on why I selected them. The ones that do well, I will grow again, most likely in my fall garden. I have been growing the Bloody Butcher the longest, and it set its first fruit in early December and a #@!$%# ground squirrel just made off with the biggest tomato today. grrrr Jan Glacier Originally from Sweden. Very early (45-55 dtm), very cold tolerant, high yielding tomato. This special strain begins flowering when only 4 inches high. Expect high yields of 2-3 oz fruit, excellent for salads and slicing. The sweet, rich taste is similar to that found in larger, later season tomatoes. Potato-leaf foliage. Siberian Fruits grow to 3-5oz and are borne in clusters. The juicy fruits have a delicious flavor roundly considered one of the best of the early types. Unlike most tomatoes this variety sets fruits in cool weather, even at just a few degrees above freezing! Determinate. 55-58 days. Silvery Fir Tree Known for its carrot-like foliage with a slight silver tinge. Plants are short and bear heavy crops of medium sized flattish tomatoes with a good flavor. Along with its attractive foliage, this variety is also popular for short or late season tomato growers as it produces in just 58 days. Determinate. Stupice A native of Czechoslovakia, where its extreme earliness, tolerance to cold, superior flavor and high yields have earned it worldwide attention. Tests show an astounding average of 87 fruits picked per plant. Fruits are sugary sweet, weighing 1 to 2 oz. Cold hardy tomato bearing 3-6 oz. fruits in large clusters. Plants are potato-leaved and can grow to a few feet. This variety bears particularly well in short-seasons or cooler areas. Fruits are good-sized and have a great flavor. Originally from Czechoslovakia. 55 days. SubArctic Plenty Allegedly developed in the 1940's by the U.S. Military to provide fresh tomatoes to their troops in Greenland. If your weather turns cold after you set out plants, try this variety. Sets hundreds of small, 1 to 2", red fruits with that tart, "real tomato" flavor. Hardier than virtually any other variety we offer. Extremely early maturity. No need to stake. Bloody Butcher A small 3-4 oz cluster tomato. Fruit are deep red in color and have a nice tomato flavor. Production is really good, but where this open-pollinated tomato really shines is its earliness. It ripens in only about 60 days, making it ripen about the same time as Early Girl, but this tomato is much tastier. Northern Exposure Hybrid 8 oz. fruits are borne on ompact, semi-determinate plants which are bred specifically for cool, short season areas. Ready to pick 67 days from setting plants outside. Determinate Sophie's Choicean extra early tomato - highly productive, flavorful and large-fruited. Unlike other extra-early varieties, the fruits are flavorful and large, averaging 6 to 8 ounces and weighing up to 12 ounces. Produces large fruit on a small plant only 18 to 24" tall. Quality is best in cool climates.

Hi lazy, I had luck with C, so I'll answer that one and defer to the more experienced on the other two. I have been compiling a list of determinates for your A request. I'm probably going to experiment in a plot that fits 40 plants. Narrowing types to 20 (2 of each) gives me a headache. We share the same mindset on the concentrated early set though. I'd like to clear out that garden by the 4th of July next year. I had good results with cherries. Sungold and Super Sweet 100s as usual suspects. Both have a reputation for cracking. I saw little, maybe 1 in 50? I may pick earlier than most. Azruss in Tucson had good results with Gardener's Delight and I'll put in one or two of those next year. Juliet gets good reviews for our conditions. Mine was a weak plant from the start and the fruit is plain in comparison. I keep going back to this, but Porter's Dark Red Cherry Hybrid is healthy and still setting fruit. The flavor suffers a little in high heat, but it's still good. Like some other crops, pick it early in the morning before the heat messes with it. Rather than being a sweet sugary marble like the others it has a nice bigger tomato taste. It is a bit larger too. 4 Husky Red Cherries acted like determinates, which is okay for us. They're small plants, 3 feet high, very compact and stout, and they covered with dozens of nice size delicious cherries that some (mom and sis) felt were the best I grew. They stood up to the sun, delivered heavily for a month+ and perished. I could have cared for them better. It came the closest to ripening clusters evenly per your request. Starting as early as you said, these could be staggered every two weeks for about six weeks into mid march and give you a strong steady supply through mid July, I think. I'm also thinking they have what it takes for a fall crop. The type I am trying currently is not up to this heat, but that husky bull of a cherry plant may do much better. It was my earliest cherry. Another project for next year. As the cherries go, I feel emboldened to try just about anything. I have seed for all above but the Husky and Sungold plus Black Cherry, Chocolate Cherry, Large Red Cherry, Orange Cherry, Green Grape, Red Grape, and Black Plum. I'm looking for more varieties and want great big plants. I'm happy to send you a few seeds if any interest you. I'd like to spread them around hard core desert conditions like ours and see other results.