Thank you all for your input! Hubby and I are leaning towards the parthenocissus for the majority of the wall planted somewhere near the right (front) end. But I'm not sure which species would do well in my climate zone and in these conditions where the sun would be on that section for the entire day. Mine is fine with sun hitting it the entire day. If the leaves look scorched, water a bit more. Avoid P. quinquefolia (Viginia creeper) because it is too rampant. Named varieties of other species will be more tame. Expect a year or two to establish a good root system before the plant really takes off, but you should get some coverage the first year. Also, if those sticky suckers flake off, will the plant be at risk of falling off the wall? No. If some bit of the plant accidentally gets pulled off the wall, just cut that part off because it won't re-attach. A new bit will grow and stick on its own. Also, I'd still like to do one bougainvillea on the opposite corner. Anyone have tips for pruning to keep it the shape I want? Use a hedge trimmer and just shear it close to the wall. Bougies bloom on new growth, so new growth = flowers, so cutting back = more flowers, not less (within reason). Do not trim a baby plant too much. Let it establish. I'd like to have it climb up the wall at the corner and then most trail across the top section of the wall. In this situation where it will be attaching itself to the wall, how can I help direct its growth since there's nothing to tie pieces to as one would if growing on a trellis. Bougies won't attach themselves. You will have to install some strong wires or a trellis and use them to attach. Would also appreciate help on choosing a bougainvillea veiety suitable to this location/climate. I'm hoping "Orange Ice" will work because I really love the colors. A non-red color will be much less rampant and would be a good choice. Check on performance for that particular variety in your area--have you seen one growing in your neighborhood that looks good? Plant bougies in June or July when the soil is warm and do not disturb the rootball. Baby bougies are easily killed because the roots are so frail and brittle and need warmth. Established bougies are nearly impossible to kill. For planting slit the planting pot up, place the pot in the planting hole and gently pull out the pieces of the pot, leaving the roots as undisturbed as you can. Should I purchase online or would local nursery be better to ensure getting plants that are best for my area? If you have a good quality garden center nearby, that should be fine. Neither genus is particularly rare or hard to find.

Alina, you know your soil best, so if you feel better about amending when you plant perennials, then continue to do it. Although I'm sure it happens, not every planting hole is going to act as a water catching basin. We can't possibly know what is going on underground, and besides, most plants can tolerate a brief flooding. If a soil is always wet from natural underground water or whatever, then I'd make raised beds or only plant what can tolerate being in wet soil all time. I live in an area where the soil freezes deeply, I have amended nearly every planting hole, but haven't lost anymore plants over winter than anyone else does. But, I live in an area where we can have several freeze/thaw cycles in one winter, which helps to break up the soil. The other thing that was mentioned is that the plants roots won't leave the amended hole, but I've moved nearly all of my plants and have yet to see one that stayed in the confines of the planting hole, well, except for the azalea that I dug out yesterday, but I had no business trying to grow an azalea in very sweet soil anyway. All of this is purely anecdotal, I have no scientific proof to back up why my plants survive and even thrive, but I do know that whatever we do individually, our gardens seem to thrive despite us. Something that I didn't say in an earlier post, was that I have an area in my yard that I still amend for some perennials. We had a drainage pipe put in a few years ago, which was laid 6 feet down. What came up from the bottom was sticky, smelly pure clay. A lot of my beautiful top soil ended up in the bottom of the trench with a lot of the anaerobic clay on top. To make matters worse, the soil was compressed from the heavy equipment. The anti-till people told me not to till, because I would ruin the soil structure. Never mind that it was already non-existent. I was even told to plant cover crops on the entire area, until the soil was back to normal. The area was about 12 feet deep, and ran from the back corner of the lot to the street. Confused by all the advice, however well-meaning it may have been, I decided to visit one of my favorite nurseries and talk to someone about my situation. That was the best thing I could have done, and maybe it would be helpful for you too. Perhaps take a soil sample with you and ask a horticulturist. The absolute best thing you can do for your garden is to collect as many leaves as you can this fall and either pulverized them with the lawn mower (a bagger attachment makes this easy to move to the garden) or invest in a leaf vac. Put a good three to four inches of pulverized leaves, grass clippings are good too but spread out well, on your soil and by late spring, you will be hard-pressed to find a piece of leaf. I do this every year, even taking leaves from my neighbors, and am happy to say that the soil that was nearly impossible to plant in is coming back nicely.

Would you consider putting up a sturdy free-standing arbor across the front of your house/entrance. There are many useful designs that could give you summer shading and then let the light through in winter. It can be a plus to NOT have plants directly against the house as small creatures tend to take up residence in the plants - mice, birds, wasps... With a formal structure you could combine, say, honeysuckle (one of the less rampant varieties) some of the climbing roses with elegant scent (the Austin roses are often repeat flowering), and various Clematises to mingle with the roses, or herald the first flush of rose blooms. If it will grow in your area another possible is Tropaeolum (Nasturtium-like). Be particularly wary of Wisteria, IMO, as it can easily wiggle its way under gutters, sidings, whatever and then Grow. If you have enough room it can be very lovely as a free-standing/sprawling specimen plant. Not much to look at over summer - but pretty good for the other three seasons.

Is your house climate controlled--especially for humidity? How many of them are wood (reed or string) instruments? Any silver? Are any/all of them valuable? Do you play them all? I don't display my string instruments--but I used to play professionally and they are the most expensive things I own. They are too sensitive to humidity fluctuations (and that's with a whole-house humidifier for the piano). But if yours are valuable and/or sensitive, some type of storage with glass doors might help keep the climate consistent enough (put a humidity gauge inside). Silver instruments can tarnish if left out. Brass instruments, form what I've read, can be hung without much concern (though my husband refuses to let me hang his out of their cases because he insists it will ruin them). I don't know much about earthquake issues, but I believe you can get lockable hanging hooks (like some music stores use to prevent you from going up and taking instruments off the wall without prior permission). You can also get floor stands for a lot of bigger instruments, but some of those are flimsy and not meant for long term. Those would worry me in an earthquake. But you can also have custom stands made that are much more solid.